Hey guys... Check out my video below for a full breakdown of whats going on.

The jeep is running at about 220 degrees on average. Could it be the fan clutch? The thermostats (temperatures?) were just replaced. Also, my oil pressure is still low even are I just added a whole quart of Lucas. Any idea why? I'm not an expert when it comes to engines.



Any advice is much appreciated!

could this extra electrical cooling fan be a sign of the engine running hot for the previous owner also?



The wiring appears to be spliced into the headlight wiring harness. that harness splices into what appears to be the main wiring harness for the jeep. There is an extra plug that i'm not sure what it's for? fan does not work at all to my knowledge. there are no random wires running into the cab so i don't believe it's hooked up. Can I hook this back up?

First thing you should do if you haven't already is verify the temp with an I.R. temp gun aimed at the t-stat housing. Does it get hot while driving or at ideal or both?

While driving the temperature gauge reads anywhere from 210 to 230 degrees. After driving for awhile, sitting in dead stop traffic the guage goes all the way to 240/right there on the last white line before the red zone.

Seems much to hot to be sitting dead still..
What is the idea average operating temp for '93 Cherokee?

I have not pointed an IR gun at tstat housing to verify temperature. Will try and find someone with one this weekend.

That electric fan is the factory aux fan that should kick on around 218 or when the ac is on.

X2

I had the same problem- heating while sitting. Fan Clutch- if you can easily spin the fan, it's bad. If there isn't a hurricane force of wind at idle, it's bad. Easy enough to change out. Get the heavy-er duty bigger one from NAPA.

I also had replaced my T stat before it started overheating, too.

**** man I can't play. Youtube is blocked in my office and don't have any internet connection at home.

Unless the glove box is full of receipts for a recent cooling system overhaul, I'd presume the PO(s) did nothing maintenance wise to the 21 year old cooling system, other than pour in fresh green coolant to make it appear that the cooling system has been maintained.

If the gauge is correct (verify) and it's actually running those temps, it's not likely that recent cooling system maintenance has been done. The XJ cooling system is not an area to ignore/take lightly. <$250 buys a complete new cooling system including a new radiator. As stated, verify temp gauge accuracy and that OE factory efan should be on at 218F or when the a/c compresor is engaged.

U only have to drain/refill coolant once if u replace all the cooling system components at the same time......otherwise, it's multiple drain/refills. XJ cooling system components (water pump, t-stat and fan clutch) can almost be replaced blindfolded when the old rad is out of the way.

Thanks for all the help guys. I found out the aux fan pictured is not working. It does not come on when the temp is over 218 degrees. It also does not come on when the ac compressor is on. It does not come on at all to my knowledge.

Could that be the sole reason the temp is reading high when I am not moving (idling)? The owner at a local shop I talked to today seemed to think that might be what it is. He said to drop it off tomorrow and they would check on it.

Could it be a dead fuse why the aux fan is not working?

Well, maybe. But it could be a burned out fan motor. Bad sensor. Blown head gasket. Who knows?

Why in the heck would someone try to take power for it from the headlight circuit?

Get the Lucas out of there as soon as you can after you fix the overheating issue. Low oil pressure is usually a sign of bad bearings. Oil additives, which are not needed in any case, will not fix them.

The non-functioning e-fan is almost certainly not the sole reason for overheating at idle. More likely that it is the mechanical fan clutch. There is no particular reason to get a heavy duty clutch unless you do a lot of towing or heavy off-roading.

I guess you are going to have a mechanic look at the e-fan but it is easy to check for electrical continuity with a meter, probing the relay contacts in the PDC and positive
wire at the fan connector. Also negative connector lead to ground.

You can check the relay by swapping it with one of the other relays in the PDC.

Good advice above to just redo the whole cooling system while you are at it.

The aux fan was not working when over 218 degrees or when the AC is on. Local mechanic just rigged it up so it runs all the time whenever the car is on now. Seems to be holding temp now no higher than about 215.

The engine seems to run for a few seconds now after I turn the key off. Anyone familiar with this?

Someone told me that the mechanic may have wired it to my coil power wire and that it's not a good thing. Anyone know? The temp seems to be sitting OK now though...