1990 XJ Won't Start!
Well, we have good spark now. Just to recap on the issue,
1. Crank and will not start
2. Changed out the coil
3. Changed out the plugs, cap, rotor
4. Cleaned all the ground points
5. Cleaned the MAP plug/ connector
6. Cleaned the plugs at the coil
7. Full charge on the battery (New Battery)
8. Tested with a Dig. Volt meter the CPS, had 237.7 ohms at the plug
(Was told that that was a good reading) Could it still be bad? Did not take it out and inspect it for damage, I am assuming that it is good because of the ohms reading?
9. It looks to me that the fuel injectors have been switched,(2 are light gray and 4 are black) what should the fuel pressure be?
If I remember anything else I will post it.
1. Crank and will not start
2. Changed out the coil
3. Changed out the plugs, cap, rotor
4. Cleaned all the ground points
5. Cleaned the MAP plug/ connector
6. Cleaned the plugs at the coil
7. Full charge on the battery (New Battery)
8. Tested with a Dig. Volt meter the CPS, had 237.7 ohms at the plug
(Was told that that was a good reading) Could it still be bad? Did not take it out and inspect it for damage, I am assuming that it is good because of the ohms reading?
9. It looks to me that the fuel injectors have been switched,(2 are light gray and 4 are black) what should the fuel pressure be?
If I remember anything else I will post it.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: montana
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
dunno if anyone mentioned it, but i had a similar issue. in the elec. box under the hood on the passenger side there is an auto shut down relay, this all could happen if it goes bad ( i think ). in the distributor there is a cam position sensor if it goes bad it will trigger the auto shut down. i found mine when it started to go bad so once the jeep was warmed up the the sensor in the dist. would act up. and the jeep would just fall flat, no diesling nothin, just shut off. Another thing that seems common enough, the 2 (maybe 3) wires running to the dist. check along them for exposed wire, especially near the dipstick tube bracket, if they are grounding out or you just have a crappy ground at their grounding point. hope that helps im pretty new to xj's myself.
Try disconnecting the plug from your TPS. If the TPS is bad it can cause a no start issue but the engine will start with it unplugged. Trust me on this one...dealing with this right now. Also, if you have a digital volt meter check the voltages at the tps. You can see how to do that here...
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
Mine is reading 4.1V with the throttle closed and 4.8V at WOT. NOT what it should be. I believe this is flooding the engine when I try to start it because the computer is thinks the throttle is wide open when it is really closed. Give it a shot.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
Mine is reading 4.1V with the throttle closed and 4.8V at WOT. NOT what it should be. I believe this is flooding the engine when I try to start it because the computer is thinks the throttle is wide open when it is really closed. Give it a shot.
Try disconnecting the plug from your TPS. If the TPS is bad it can cause a no start issue but the engine will start with it unplugged. Trust me on this one...dealing with this right now. Also, if you have a digital volt meter check the voltages at the tps. You can see how to do that here...
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
Mine is reading 4.1V with the throttle closed and 4.8V at WOT. NOT what it should be. I believe this is flooding the engine when I try to start it because the computer is thinks the throttle is wide open when it is really closed. Give it a shot.
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/...iagnostics.htm
Mine is reading 4.1V with the throttle closed and 4.8V at WOT. NOT what it should be. I believe this is flooding the engine when I try to start it because the computer is thinks the throttle is wide open when it is really closed. Give it a shot.
dunno if anyone mentioned it, but i had a similar issue. in the elec. box under the hood on the passenger side there is an auto shut down relay, this all could happen if it goes bad ( i think ). in the distributor there is a cam position sensor if it goes bad it will trigger the auto shut down. i found mine when it started to go bad so once the jeep was warmed up the the sensor in the dist. would act up. and the jeep would just fall flat, no diesling nothin, just shut off. Another thing that seems common enough, the 2 (maybe 3) wires running to the dist. check along them for exposed wire, especially near the dipstick tube bracket, if they are grounding out or you just have a crappy ground at their grounding point. hope that helps im pretty new to xj's myself.
Would you still have spark if this AUTO SHUT DOWN relay was triggered?
Well, we have good spark now. Just to recap on the issue,
1. Crank and will not start
2. Changed out the coil
3. Changed out the plugs, cap, rotor
4. Cleaned all the ground points
5. Cleaned the MAP plug/ connector
6. Cleaned the plugs at the coil
7. Full charge on the battery (New Battery)
8. Tested with a Dig. Volt meter the CPS, had 237.7 ohms at the plug
(Was told that that was a good reading) Could it still be bad? Did not take it out and inspect it for damage, I am assuming that it is good because of the ohms reading?
9. It looks to me that the fuel injectors have been switched,(2 are light gray and 4 are black) what should the fuel pressure be?
If I remember anything else I will post it.
1. Crank and will not start
2. Changed out the coil
3. Changed out the plugs, cap, rotor
4. Cleaned all the ground points
5. Cleaned the MAP plug/ connector
6. Cleaned the plugs at the coil
7. Full charge on the battery (New Battery)
8. Tested with a Dig. Volt meter the CPS, had 237.7 ohms at the plug
(Was told that that was a good reading) Could it still be bad? Did not take it out and inspect it for damage, I am assuming that it is good because of the ohms reading?
9. It looks to me that the fuel injectors have been switched,(2 are light gray and 4 are black) what should the fuel pressure be?
If I remember anything else I will post it.
10. Compression test:
cyl. 1 = 130
cyl. 2 = 135
cyl. 3 = 120
cyl. 4 = 130
cyl. 5 = 130
cyl. 6 = 130
11. High pressure fuel line has a small leak, not sure how to fix?
12. The TPS sensor is working fine.
What should the PSI of the fuel rail be? If it has to low of fuel pressure, would it not run?
I rely don't know what else it could be
Okay, I have done some more testing,
10. Compression test:
cyl. 1 = 130
cyl. 2 = 135
cyl. 3 = 120
cyl. 4 = 130
cyl. 5 = 130
cyl. 6 = 130
11. High pressure fuel line has a small leak, not sure how to fix?
12. The TPS sensor is working fine.
What should the PSI of the fuel rail be? If it has to low of fuel pressure, would it not run?
I rely don't know what else it could be
10. Compression test:
cyl. 1 = 130
cyl. 2 = 135
cyl. 3 = 120
cyl. 4 = 130
cyl. 5 = 130
cyl. 6 = 130
11. High pressure fuel line has a small leak, not sure how to fix?
12. The TPS sensor is working fine.
What should the PSI of the fuel rail be? If it has to low of fuel pressure, would it not run?
I rely don't know what else it could be

Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: so cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Okay, I have done some more testing,
10. Compression test:
cyl. 1 = 130
cyl. 2 = 135
cyl. 3 = 120
cyl. 4 = 130
cyl. 5 = 130
cyl. 6 = 130
11. High pressure fuel line has a small leak, not sure how to fix?
12. The TPS sensor is working fine.
What should the PSI of the fuel rail be? If it has to low of fuel pressure, would it not run?
I rely don't know what else it could be
10. Compression test:
cyl. 1 = 130
cyl. 2 = 135
cyl. 3 = 120
cyl. 4 = 130
cyl. 5 = 130
cyl. 6 = 130
11. High pressure fuel line has a small leak, not sure how to fix?
12. The TPS sensor is working fine.
What should the PSI of the fuel rail be? If it has to low of fuel pressure, would it not run?
I rely don't know what else it could be

Also if the relay was bad you would not have spark or fuel.
Are you getting a pop, spit anything as you turn it over?
Are you checking spark at coil, the reason I ask is the rotor turning in the dist? Could the previous owner or you have pulled the dist out and not put it back in correct?
Compression is fine.
Check all those things and see where you are at. Put #1 piston at tdc on compression stroke, and see which way the rotor is pointing. Should be pointing at # 1 on the cap.
Try spraying a shot of ether or carb cleaner in TB to see if you get a pop or anything.
Dont worry you will figure this out, and when you find it it will be simple trust me.
fuel pressure on the rail should be around 31psi at idle and 39 psi at wide open throttle ( or with the vac hose to the fuel pressure regulator of and blocked).
The in line fuel filter only costs a few bucks and could prolly do with a change as well.
Good luck with it.
The in line fuel filter only costs a few bucks and could prolly do with a change as well.
Good luck with it.
I did spray some carb cleaner in the air tube, and I did get it to try and start. That is what makes me think fuel pressure or injector problems.
u have compression and spark . check fuel. key it on then off and hold valve in on the fuel rail to see if u have pressurized fuel. then check for voltages on the pump. easiest way is to pull the relay and short the 2 pins power to pump. i had the same problem it was the pcm. one wire on the pcm wasnt grounding so i cut it and grounded it until i got a new pcm. check the pump first it might have power but no ground its relay is ground controlled by the pcm!
Seasoned Member
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 298
Likes: 1
From: so cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0


