Any ideas will be much appreciated so thanks in advance.

This is an older vehicle, don't like shot gunning parts but thought it wouldn't hurt replacing anyway being it has 170,000 mi.
Replaced parts after stalling issue with no change.
Engine runs great all day long at idle. Even runs good at higher RPM's.
Drives fine until it gets warm but then idles low and wants to quit after coming to a stop.
Sometime it will just idle low upon stopping but then may quit after applying gas pedal.
Soon after all the stalling engine will have a low vacuum and o2 will stop working.
It was worse before finding that the catalytic converter was wasted. Replaced that also.
Could the issue have anything to do with the transmission being that it idles perfectly?
Is it possible that the ECU just needs to relearn or is bad? If it went bad something must have caused it.

Parts Replaced
IAC motor
Coolant temp sensor
Air temp sensor
Oxygen sensor
Starter relay
fuel pressure regulator
injectors
Vacuum lines
fuel pump last year
Fuel filter last year
Coil last year
Crank sensor last year
Plugs, wires, rotor and cap last year
Only old part left is the camshaft sensor.
Map sensor tested fine as did the throttle position sensor.
Did the most important of Cruiser54 fixes.
Even installed larger 7 point cable uprade
Alternator works fine.
Also Replaced Ignition Switch. Wire going to blower, blinkers, tail lights had shorted due to the switch slider internals catching when turning key to the off position. It just got hot enough to melt the wire coating and the plastic area of where the wire connects. The connection was still good. It just got hot. That wire goes from the ignition switch to the fuse block. No blown fuses. Noticed all that upon inspection after the stalling had taken place.

 

at this point you may as well try the camshaft sensor... i was gonna say the crankshaft position sensor originally, but sounds like you changed that already. There is a way to diagnose either sensor with an electric meter/ohms meter I believe.

 

Check the connection of the crank sensor plug at the harness and dielectric grease the pins up right good. Some plastic safe silicone on the gasket too. Same with the connector at the coil. Also check the coil wire and make sure it is snug at both ends.

The latter was a problem for me, for some reason the coil wire loosened up and eventually it fell out of one side during part of a 250 mile trip. Got towed to a Pep Boys, they found the problem and I was back on my way, until it popped loose again in exactly the same spot on I-95. New set of wires the next day got me back home.

My chronic stalling/cutting out problems ended when I regreased and seated the two connectors mentioned above. YMMV.

 

Issue Resolved:

EGR was sticking in the on position just slightly enough to cause the low idle..
And of course when restarting it would idle low and have low vacuum as well.
New EGR from Oreillys too. Chinese Crap has got to stop.