I have now failed the emissions test 5 times. Any help would be appreciated. Numbers are as follows

Loaded HC 255 - 220 Fail
Loaded CO 2.53 - 1.20 Fail
Idle HC 217 - 220 Pass
Idle CO 0.98 - 1.20 Pass
(these are the best numbers Ive gotten in all 5 tests and is the most recent test result)

Things I have already done:
plugs,wires,oil change,air filter, new o2 sensor, new cat, ground refresh, c101 connecter refresh, Ignition coil refresh, cleaned IAC, seafoamed thru intake.

 

You checked the plugs are at .035. You might look at Cruiser's stuff found in my signature..Engine coolant temp. sensor?

If you are runnen the stock injectors you might want to up-grade to newer 4 hole injectors, (smogn' or not).



Triple check the MAP tube>

There is a brittle little tube. It comes out of a rubber plug, low on the engine side of the throttle body. It runs back to the firewall, then up to your MAP sensor sort of high up there near center on the firewall. CRUCIAL!! The MAP will tell the ECU to dump fuel with less/no vacuum. Any crack or blockage and it will be pig-rich. (black smoke, fouled black plugs). You can pull the line off the MAP and feel for vacuum with your finger. If it runs!



Vacuum leaks? >




MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM
Vacuum leaks suck. I go around with short little shots of starting fluid, if you hit one the sound of the engine will change. Small little shots! You don't want that stuff to accumulate. It's a fire hazard, but It evaporates right away. Also with a tube, or a section of hose you can listen for it. Don't forget the lower O rings on the injectors need to seal as well. (uppers would leak fuel).
The manifold bolts have a habit of loosening, especially that rear one. On anything like that you never want to tighten only one. It can warp/bend, even crack things. If I found that any that where easy to reach where loose, I'd pull the air cleaner and tighten them all, starting in the middle and working out towards the ends. I go over about three times. It's a bear of a spot to get a torque wrench on them all. Just don't ape on it. If its firm and not turning, no point in going on to break it, a REAL *****. The rearmost bolt underneath takes a little doing, but it can be done with the right extension. For that very back one by the firewall I use way long extensions (18"), with a swivel at the socket. Anyway, that's a good thing to check on any old Jeep. ALSO, there is a large line coming off the intake, rear of the TB that goes back to the firewall, across, then forward down to the vacuum ball behind your right front bumper. You can pinch that off or unplug it and cap the nipple to test if you have a leak there.