1987 Jeep Wagoneer/turn signal and break lights
Been having trouble with my turn signal and break lights, actually there not working. And my blower for my heater and air conditioner is not working. I noticed a problem since I had bought it. The key switch would lock up, and it was hard to turn at first. Everything started O.K and worked but occasionally I would have to wiggle the key switch with the key to get the blower and turn signals to work. Finally after a few wiggles the turn signals would work and the blower also. Then of course, it got progressively worse. Until, Yep! It finally quit altogether. I took the steering wheel column off, and the turnsignal switch looked O.K. No cracks or broken parts as far as I could tell. The turnsignal switch made a nice clicking sound as I switched it from left to right. Didn't look bad. Then I took the keyswitch out and it had quite a bit of copper fillings in it. Could be from the key switch or the key, but the key looked O.K. So I am guessing the keyswitch is bad, but I can't see how the ketswitch would cause the turnsignals not to work. Or the break lights. I did check the fuses, the turnsignal switch fuse was bad, so I replaced it. The other fuses seemed O.K. Replacing the fuse did not work. I didn't check the wires from the turn signal switch to the harness connector under the steering column, but I will do so with an ohm meter. I also did not check turn signal bulbs, but it just seemed to me like it is in the steering column somewhere. So, I will also need to check the turn signal bulbs. Any information appreciated. Thanks!
I solved the problem about the turn signal lights not working, but I was looking in the wrong place. I was wrong on my assumption that it wasn't the turn signal bulbs. It was! I had to replace my key switch anyhow, so I took the steering column off. Now I am stuck with figuring out how my steering column components went back together. I have a chiltons book, but it doesn't show everything, and the combination switch I need to take off and it isn't cooperating. The book says to gently pry off the plastic arm with a screw driver. I did , but the arm only comes loose. I can't get it all the way off. Anyone know how to take it off, and is there any illustrations that show how to take it off better than the Chilton guide. I know, I should have drew out a schematic where the parts were suppose to go. Any help appreciated.
Thought I might mention. My main problem is I need to take my combination turn signal switch off. In order to put everything back together. I have the turn signal switch washer fluid and headlight dimmer switch as well as speed control built into the turn signal switch. There is a clip, I believe that came out of the switch, and I need to take it apart to figure out how the clip goes in so I can put it together. The turn signal switch arm I cannot get apart. I pry the plastic piece loose with a screw driver, but I can't get the metal arm loose. Is there a screw or something holding the metal arm. This is an 87 Jeep Wagoneer, with tilt steering. Thanks! Info appreciated.
Last edited by HolyCow; Sep 27, 2009 at 09:02 AM.
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
i dont know if this will help but this is a thread i wrote on a steering column for a 89 cherokee... maybe there kinda close and you can see the pics to get you where you need to go... the write up wont do you any good though as its for something else... hope the pictures help!
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/lo...t-broke-13641/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/lo...t-broke-13641/
Thanks for info and pics. Helpfull, but my problem is with the combination switch. It controls the turn signals, wiper blades, windshield washer and speed control. It is basically the turn signal switch, only it has the other stuff in it. The Chilton book I have says to gently pry off the plastic arm, which goes around the metal arm which hooks into the switch on the steering column . But, when I pry the plastic arm it loosens alright but that's as far as it goes. I can't find any other way to get it off, but I know there is a way. I may have to get an original service manual or tow it to a shop, but all I need is to get that arm off, then I could fix it. I'll keep at it, but if anyone knows of a link to a possible diagram that shows how the combination switch assembly works it would be helpfull. This is an 87 wagoneer, probably identical to a Cherokee, there both made the same. Thanks!
Didn't get much response on this. I suspected the metal arm on the combination switch might be froze on, rust that is! And that is precisely what it was. I sprayed some WD 40 on the arm from the inside, and let it soak fro a couple of days. It worked. The metal actuator arm came right off. Of course I bought the Wagoner used, so I should have suspected rust in some areas. A lesson well learned. Now all I got to do is figure out how the darn thing goes back together, there is also a clip that I can't figure out where it goes. As long as it works, I hope. Should have known, and every tech knows, always write down how it came apart, which I also failed to do. Maybe I am not really a tech but a would be tech!
Last edited by HolyCow; Oct 5, 2009 at 02:09 PM. Reason: ad info
Now it seems my horn wants to stay on all the time. I checked your photos out of the steering wheel removal and it looks totally different than mine. Similar, but a little different. In your second picture it shows the gear behind the white plastic piece, in mine the chilton book shows the white piece in back of the gear. Weird. Still checking it out. Been trying different combination's, but the horn still stays on all the time. I can wiggle my key switch and the horn will go off, then wiggle it again and the horn comes back on. Something isn't right. Me I guess!
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MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
the horn will come on if the little plate is flipped th wrong way... i did this myself... the reason it has to do with the key is the horn wont work without the key... at least mine wont anyways... but yeah its a maybe 2in wide metal plate that kinda has a bowl shape to it with a whole in the center... flip it... im pretty sure thats what it s with mine anyways...
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
this is what it looks like... they are high...
My memory eludes me about the metal plate. Does it go on before the lock plate or after. Is it up by the steering wheel or behind the lock plate or gear as you call it in your pics. I tried flipping the metal plate, which is round with 3 holes in it and 3 slits and it is about 3 inches wide, maybe two inches but it looks to be 3 inches, and the horn still came on. I checked everything else and it seems all is working except for having trouble with the horn. If all else fails I guess I'll have to just go without a horn until I figure it out. If I could post pictures I would, but you have to have a photo service, I think, like photo bucket, am I right? Thanks for info!
Last edited by HolyCow; Oct 6, 2009 at 02:13 AM. Reason: ad info
If anyone has a service manual for a Wagoneer 1987, I would be willing to take it off your hands, if price is right. I saw one advertised but they want 115.00 bucks for it, which would be worth it, but I'm shopping around to see if I can get a better deal. I am getting tired of not having enough information to work on the dang thing.
Start with popping off the horn cap... just yank on it...
Unscrew the 3 phillip head screws and take it all off... Keep in mind the thin disc you take off must go back on in the same direction or your horn will never turn off
Unscrew the 3 phillip head screws and take it all off... Keep in mind the thin disc you take off must go back on in the same direction or your horn will never turn off
Last edited by HolyCow; Oct 6, 2009 at 09:27 AM. Reason: spelling era
MJ>XJ
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 17,836
Likes: 7
From: Griffin, G.A.
Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
that part your talking about is the part the horn cap stick to... its one of the first things to come off... see the horn as constant power to it... when u press the button the horn grounds and thats what makes it go beep... the plastic part with the three holes is plastic so that it doesnt carry current... it goes in between the two metal parts... when u hit the horn the disc shaped piece flipps backwards and grounds... then when u let off it flips back by itself...


