Yeah, but there is a certain sequence that you have to follow. Dont quote me on this, I dont remember off the top of my head but I have it written in my Haynes manual. You need to touch the negative cable to the positive terminal for 30 seconds, then turn the key to accessories and turn on the headlights on then off, then on & off again and then wait a minute and its reset. But it also takes 50 start cycles to adjust to the new injectors.

Again, not 100% certain of that order, but there is more to it and disconnecting the battery and/or touching the terminals. Search the site, Im sure you can find it somewhere.

 

Touching the terminals, turning on the lights, turnign on the key, pressing the brake pedal.... They all do the same thing once the battery is disconnected. No special sequence is going to do anything unless you are performing some type of xj voodoo ritual. It just discharges any remaining power from the system for the computers to be able to fully reboot when turned back on.

 

I put 703's in my 97 and I think my gas mileage got worse. I reset my ecu with a drb. I have a set of liberty injectors, ill have to see if I can find a set of connectors and try them out.

 

I put Ford 19lb in my 97 and notice little to no inprovement but does run smoother. guess thats something.

 

If you can send me the part number 0 280 15x xxx, then I can look up the data and see how they compare to the 703, 784, 021... They could be flowing more in the low end.

 

what about the fuel rail??? arent the inj. on the liberty longer, same ones that ford uses? so you have to change the fuel rail and will one out of a later XJ work mine is a 1990

 

Hey...neat work. Love that tecky stuff. Was wondering, maybe I missed it, you said "They came out of a Jeep Liberty 3.7liter V6." and that they are EV14 Is there a part#...something to use to search? I guess knowing what year Liberty would nail it. Please excuse me if I missed something obvious, THANKS!

 

might have to give this a try. thanks for sharing

 

Wheather you cross the neg and pos cables when off the battery, or turn headlights on then disconnect batt for about 5 minutes. Or unhook battery all night it all amounts to the same of letting the small charge held in the ecu bleed out,Ok.Now you know the rest of the story.

 

These are 60.65 mm between the O-rings. 703/784 Are 60.3 mm between the O-rings. So they are 0.3 mm or 0.012" longer between the O-rings. They went in with no problems. I even had to pull the fuel rail back after pushing the injectors in so the mounting bolts would line up.



They are 0280158021 from the 210 HP V6 that is also used in the following applications:

• 2002–present Dodge Ram 1500
• 2004–2011 Dodge Dakota
• 2004–2009 Dodge Durango
• 2007–2011 Dodge Nitro
• 2002–present Jeep Liberty
• 2005–2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee
• 2006–2010 Jeep Commander
• 2006–2010 Mitsubishi Raider

I am not positive that all these vehicles use the same injectors, but they all got the same 3.7 liter engine.

You are quite welcome.

 

Great information! Thanks.

I sure would like to see how they would work on a 2000 and if they have the same improvements.

Who's going to try it and see?

 

If someone wants to send me a few stock inj. I can test them and compare

 

Put 703's in my 96 HO,5 spd.last month,mpg went from 16.2 to 18.89 yesterday.Much smoother and great throttle response

 

Any word on how these Libby injectors would work on a 98?

 

If a 1998 uses the same connector as the 784, they will plug and play. The only thing I don't know about is what dynamic flow the later stock injectors had.