LOW PROFILE Shackle Relocation Kits
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,785
Likes: 0
From: Holland MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ok, I'm curious on some things on the install/setup.
Does either of these kits cause issues with the stock exhaust pipe routing? How about hitch, any issues in combination with these?
Does either of these kits cause issues with the stock exhaust pipe routing? How about hitch, any issues in combination with these?
I really don't think they will. It takes the place of the shackle box thats is already there so it shouldn't interfere. It will work with a hitch also, just need the hitch under the bracket.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 588
Likes: 1
From: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
How about shipping to Ontario, Canada? Been looking into my options to correct my angle and came across these last night and would definitely be my preferred choice with having cut quarters.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 588
Likes: 1
From: Peterborough, Ontario, Canada
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Looks like I'll need to do an extra side job or two before ordering lol. Being in Canada sucks for shipping sometimes. I'd have to go with USPS though as UPS usually nails us worse for extra fees. Hopefully in the next week or two I'll make my order for this great looking product!
Well I had originally planned on doing a full write up in its own thread but once I got started with the install some stuff happened and I had to rush through it. So I didn't take as many pictures as planned but i got some and I have a few things to point out
first off soak everything in pb blaster for week or so before you start
so start out, remove the bumper. I'm going to leave it at that because you may have factory or aftermarket bumpers but the just of it is there are two brackets with 4 bolts each. remove the bolts bumper comes off. after market bumpers may be attached by the under frame bolts too

next is the hitch if you have one. there are different ways these are attached mine had carriage bolts on metal tabs I broke 2 and cut 2 and the rest came out. usually there are 8 bolts, 4 on each side


next we are going to jack up the rear end, and then put jack stands under the frame, I have baby jack stands so I have to stack 2 2x4s on the stands in order for them to be tall enough to unload the leafs. the idea is to take all the weight off of the springs so you can disconnect them. whatever you do be safe and smart about it


once you have that done you can raise the jack back up to support the axle weight, just get the jack to touch the axle then go up 1/2 inch or so just enough to take the weight off the spring. then you can loosen the lower shackle bolt and remove the upper shackle bolt on both sides.
next you need to lower the axle to get the shackles to drop out of the box, my shocks are long and let the axle droop way clear but this may not be the case for your rig, you may have to disconnect the shocks to get the axle to go low enough.

now is a good time to check and make sure your shackles fit in the new boxes. Yes every manufacture out there says my box fits all shackles or my shackle fits all boxes. fact is sometimes you need to mod one or the other as in my case. Im using Chevy lowering shackles and they need to be narrowed. I simply cut a bit off the sleeve and then took a grinder to the poly bushings to make a snug fit


now that we are sure the shackles will work we can start the demo. you want to remove the factory box and try to get it as flush as possible. one thing to do if you cant get your grinder in close to the frame is to cut out the majority of the box and then score whats left close to the frame where you want it to come off. then grab some pliers and bend it back and forth and it will break at your score mark. this thin metal is so easy to work with haha. with the box gone you want to remove the lower bumper nut that was inside the box and at the very least get the bottom half of whats left of the box flush. I noticed with my boxes removing the nut for the bumper wasn't enough. I had to remove the plate it was welded to as well.

now you can toss your new boxes in and make sure it all looks good, you may have to do some grinding to get it all to fit take your time and get it right.
get all your bolts installed loose first then tighten them down. you can put your shackles back in and raise the axle back up but don't tighten your shackle bolts until the vehicle is sitting on its wheels.
Next I cut out a chunk of my filler neck shield thing because I wanted to keep it installed

now you can put your wheels back on and put it back on the ground, remember to tighten your shackle bolts and lug nuts. then enjoy your new shackle angle

now for the stuff i want to bring up.
One. if your shackle has Zerks be sure they aren't going to bind. if I installed mine with the zerk on the back side It would smash into the boxes in all holes and with it on the front side it will hit in the forward hole, the one I used. So I just removed the zerk. Just keep a look out.

Two. maybe my rear end is more crooked than I think but I did notice the box doesn't sit flush on the weld nut. it looks to be like 1/8 to 1/4 off its hard to judge but both sides are like that. the shackles are already going to be 1/2 inch wider because of the thickness of the metal, this gap only makes them wider and I would think it is giving up some strength compared to having the frame supporting the inside of the box

all in all Im happy with the boxes and look forward to the extra flexy
first off soak everything in pb blaster for week or so before you start
so start out, remove the bumper. I'm going to leave it at that because you may have factory or aftermarket bumpers but the just of it is there are two brackets with 4 bolts each. remove the bolts bumper comes off. after market bumpers may be attached by the under frame bolts too

next is the hitch if you have one. there are different ways these are attached mine had carriage bolts on metal tabs I broke 2 and cut 2 and the rest came out. usually there are 8 bolts, 4 on each side


next we are going to jack up the rear end, and then put jack stands under the frame, I have baby jack stands so I have to stack 2 2x4s on the stands in order for them to be tall enough to unload the leafs. the idea is to take all the weight off of the springs so you can disconnect them. whatever you do be safe and smart about it


once you have that done you can raise the jack back up to support the axle weight, just get the jack to touch the axle then go up 1/2 inch or so just enough to take the weight off the spring. then you can loosen the lower shackle bolt and remove the upper shackle bolt on both sides.
next you need to lower the axle to get the shackles to drop out of the box, my shocks are long and let the axle droop way clear but this may not be the case for your rig, you may have to disconnect the shocks to get the axle to go low enough.

now is a good time to check and make sure your shackles fit in the new boxes. Yes every manufacture out there says my box fits all shackles or my shackle fits all boxes. fact is sometimes you need to mod one or the other as in my case. Im using Chevy lowering shackles and they need to be narrowed. I simply cut a bit off the sleeve and then took a grinder to the poly bushings to make a snug fit


now that we are sure the shackles will work we can start the demo. you want to remove the factory box and try to get it as flush as possible. one thing to do if you cant get your grinder in close to the frame is to cut out the majority of the box and then score whats left close to the frame where you want it to come off. then grab some pliers and bend it back and forth and it will break at your score mark. this thin metal is so easy to work with haha. with the box gone you want to remove the lower bumper nut that was inside the box and at the very least get the bottom half of whats left of the box flush. I noticed with my boxes removing the nut for the bumper wasn't enough. I had to remove the plate it was welded to as well.

now you can toss your new boxes in and make sure it all looks good, you may have to do some grinding to get it all to fit take your time and get it right.
get all your bolts installed loose first then tighten them down. you can put your shackles back in and raise the axle back up but don't tighten your shackle bolts until the vehicle is sitting on its wheels.
Next I cut out a chunk of my filler neck shield thing because I wanted to keep it installed

now you can put your wheels back on and put it back on the ground, remember to tighten your shackle bolts and lug nuts. then enjoy your new shackle angle

now for the stuff i want to bring up.
One. if your shackle has Zerks be sure they aren't going to bind. if I installed mine with the zerk on the back side It would smash into the boxes in all holes and with it on the front side it will hit in the forward hole, the one I used. So I just removed the zerk. Just keep a look out.

Two. maybe my rear end is more crooked than I think but I did notice the box doesn't sit flush on the weld nut. it looks to be like 1/8 to 1/4 off its hard to judge but both sides are like that. the shackles are already going to be 1/2 inch wider because of the thickness of the metal, this gap only makes them wider and I would think it is giving up some strength compared to having the frame supporting the inside of the box

all in all Im happy with the boxes and look forward to the extra flexy
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: Centralia, Wa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,411
Likes: 0
From: northlake IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
i have the same thing where the box sits off the frame a little maybe kris can you move over the frame holes a little so it comes a little closer or is up against it
i am not worried about it tho i think the bolt can take it tho i am not worried about it on mine i have been driving around climbing on rocks and snow and they are riding great
i am not worried about it tho i think the bolt can take it tho i am not worried about it on mine i have been driving around climbing on rocks and snow and they are riding great
Thread Starter
Cherokee Forum Vendor
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 1,448
Likes: 2
From: Lynden, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Great write up Ocho! Darn, I wish you guys would have mentioned the spacing issue there earlier. :/ We just had 7 more kits sent to laser earlier this week. I guess we have another revision to do. This is bound to happen with a new product like this. but I do apologize.
How wide is your shackle bushing sleeve? Looks quite a bit wider then the box. Stock XJ shackles should be 2.75". I guess I might need to widen that a little, just as long as the narrower shackles dont have play.
Kris
How wide is your shackle bushing sleeve? Looks quite a bit wider then the box. Stock XJ shackles should be 2.75". I guess I might need to widen that a little, just as long as the narrower shackles dont have play.
Kris
Last edited by Lead Foot; Feb 16, 2013 at 12:52 AM.



