EZEARL

This was posted by a former member who contacted B&M before mounting his cooler:
B&M engineers say:
"disregard the instructions that came with the cooler and mount however I wanted....up/down/sideways. "

MWMahoneyJr

Ok, so we're all on the same page: Just install the thing.

EZEARL

That's what B&M says about their cooler. Maybe someone might want to contact Hayden? Anyways here's how I mounted mine.

Anony

I think for some applications and conditions some people are worried about air pockets. I've mounted different ways up, down and sideways and could not tell any difference. To be on a safe side i.e. to prevent potential air becoming trapped (may occur only under some conditions) mount the i/o according to these "recommendations".


https://static.summitracing.com/glob...er_techdoc.pdf

I seem to recall reading somewhere, that several inches away from the radiator closer to the grill provides better cooling for the trans fluid. I have mine spaced ~1/4 inch from the rad with cooler mounting zip ties. I never got around to mounting farther away from the rad. which may allow for better air-flow for cooling down the transmission?

If anyone remembers seeing OEM radiator descriptions "max cooling" what this means by OEM standards is that the transmission fluid doesn't go through a radiator's trans cooler, which has been removed in a radiator with max. cooling. An OEM radiator with Max cooling means the transmission fluid only goes through an external trans cooler bypassing the radiator. Which essentially allows the radiator to have better efficiency (as it won't be cooling down the transmission and atf)

My installation with the aux. trans cooler connected inline after the radiators built-in trans cooler I notice an engine temperature drop of 1 - 2 deg. F. So the stacked plate t-cooler rated at 14,500 BTU does drop radiator temperatures a little. I would need to install an ATF temp. ga to determine how effective it is for cooling the transmission.

SteveMongr

That is how my rig was set up, bypassing heat exchanger in radiator. Also used a HD fan clutch.

bad_idea

I have the B&M 70264 in my 90. It is a tight fit, had to cut out the vertical support in the header panel (behind the grille) to fit it. I have it mounted with the lines coming in the driver's side of the cooler, passing through the front cross member tied into the stock line. The 70268 would have cooled just fine and fit a lot easier. Lessons learned.

I have it plumbed in before the stock cooler. Most everyone will tell you to plumb it AFTER the factory cooler, but the physical routing of the lines was soo much easier the way I routed it. It has been plumbed this way for six months and has been fine. I have a temp gauge and monitor it often. Routine driving temp barely breaks 125 on highway, 150 around town. Temp gets as high as 180 when I push the jeep hard in the sand on the OBX. As Steve can attest, we have deep, soft sand on the Outer Banks. Really puts a strain on transmissions, and mine hasn't topped 180 pushing it hard. I have yet to drive it on the sand when it is 100 degrees outside, typical outside temp has been between 50 and 80.

SteveMongr

Both ways have merit. Depends on intended purpose and type of climate you live in.
Your method keeps excessive heat from transmission (beach driving) being dumped into radiator, which is working hard enough to keep engine temps stable.
Also will help keep transmission temps more stable by passing through stock heat exchanger last.
Cooler first will dump excessive heat into atmosphere, then fluid passes exchanger where it is either cooled further OR heat is added, just as factory engineers intended.

Also, reading temps off hot line will have a different reading than body of transmission or fluid in pan. Hot line exits torque converter.

bad_idea

I have my temperature sensor installed in the temperature port in the side of the transmission.