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Old 12-07-2012, 01:08 PM   #1
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Default 89' swap to 91' 4.0

I had a 89' 4.0 but it kinda sorta blew up on me ... So I just recently bought a 91' engine and I was wondering a couple things, My intake and exhaust manifolds bolt right up on the head, but will they work? I want to use my original intake and exhaust because they just plug right in. Also on my 89' it had a knock sensor which to be honest i have no clue what the purpose of a knock sensor it but I read that I have to drill and tap a hole for the knock sensor to go into is this correct? I know you may reccomend i run the intake and exhaust that came with it but I just feel more at ease running something I know works properly. I just want to get my baby cruisin again!
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Old 12-07-2012, 01:49 PM   #2
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The long blocks should be identical. Just swap everything over.
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:22 PM   #3
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The long blocks should be identical. Just swap everything over.
What about the heads? Can I use the 91' head?
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Old 12-09-2012, 01:50 AM   #4
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What about the heads? Can I use the 91' head?
yes you can only thing is is the intake wont line up perfectly Im planning on doing the same swap just so I have a less abused motor. Not my fault there I have the po to thank for that. But it bothers me that salt water was run thru the engine. So I am going this rout ASAP I will be using the block and head with my stock exhaust and intake bc I dont have the money for the hesco adapter for the H/O throttle body
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Old 12-09-2012, 07:25 AM   #5
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Let's take all the mystery out of this.

Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case.
 
Revised 07/24/2012
 
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

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Old 12-09-2012, 08:25 AM   #6
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I know when i put a zj auto ho block i had to to install a manual pilot bearing and the brass fitting for it
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Old 12-09-2012, 08:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim357 View Post
yes you can only thing is is the intake wont line up perfectly Im planning on doing the same swap just so I have a less abused motor. Not my fault there I have the po to thank for that. But it bothers me that salt water was run thru the engine. So I am going this rout ASAP I will be using the block and head with my stock exhaust and intake bc I dont have the money for the hesco adapter for the H/O throttle body
Nothing wrong with that.
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

A link to my Jeep Technical Photos:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214


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Old 12-10-2012, 06:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
Let's take all the mystery out of this.

Cruiserís HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that canít be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. Youíll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driverís side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in itís place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driverís side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks Iíve seen are threaded for it. If not, Iíve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if thatís the case.
 
Revised 07/24/2012
 
Thanks man I couldnt remember all the little things that needed to be done
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Old 12-10-2012, 07:35 PM   #9
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You bet. Have fun. Remember to loosen the top two engine to trans bolts first. Requires an E12 socket.
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

A link to my Jeep Technical Photos:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214


Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Old 12-11-2012, 12:37 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
Let's take all the mystery out of this.

Cruiserís HO into Renix Swap
This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
The HO and Renix have some differences but none that canít be overcome very easily.
Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. Youíll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender.
You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical.
You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications.
The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driverís side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in itís place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16" square drive or a modified 3/8" drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine.
As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driverís side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks Iíve seen are threaded for it. If not, Iíve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if thatís the case.
 
Revised 07/24/2012
 
Thank you! You do not know how much I appreciate that, I was getting a bit discouraged for some reason but I feel better having that bit of info, one other thing is what about the Oil pressure switch/sensor? I should also use the one that has just one wire like on the renix correct?
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Old 12-11-2012, 05:26 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siever_93 View Post
Thank you! You do not know how much I appreciate that, I was getting a bit discouraged for some reason but I feel better having that bit of info, one other thing is what about the Oil pressure switch/sensor? I should also use the one that has just one wire like on the renix correct?
I feel your pain. I dove head first into the first one hoping it would work!!!

Use all Renix sensors.

Here's a chance to do something fun. Use the 91 oil filter adapter. Now is a good time to reseal it, you know. The cool thing is you can use the later model 3/4" X 16 filters.
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

A link to my Jeep Technical Photos:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214


Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:38 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
I feel your pain. I dove head first into the first one hoping it would work!!!

Use all Renix sensors.

Here's a chance to do something fun. Use the 91 oil filter adapter. Now is a good time to reseal it, you know. The cool thing is you can use the later model 3/4" X 16 filters.
What would be the benefits of using the 91' oil filter adapter?
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Old 12-11-2012, 09:41 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Siever_93 View Post
What would be the benefits of using the 91' oil filter adapter?
Wider variey of good, inexpensive oil filters.

The 89 uses metric threads-20mm.
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

A link to my Jeep Technical Photos:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214


Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Old 12-11-2012, 11:56 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiser54 View Post
You bet. Have fun. Remember to loosen the top two engine to trans bolts first. Requires an E12 socket.
what kinda socket is that wen I pulled a motor out of a 93 i just used a 17mm i think it was
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:19 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slim357 View Post
what kinda socket is that wen I pulled a motor out of a 93 i just used a 17mm i think it was
Looks like a Torx bit on the bolt head itself. Uses an inverted Torx # E12 to remove it.
Perhaps someone had already changed your bolts. BTW, they're not metric.
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Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips can be found in the pink link below:

An index to over 25 helpful write-ups is in Post #1.
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/cruiser54s-mostly-renix-tips-153657/

In Handy Printable pdf format:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d...aEE/edit?pli=1

A link to my Jeep Technical Photos:
http://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/1725214


Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:19 AM
 
 
 
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