What did you do to your Cherokee today?
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Philadelphia
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Changed the oil after running Seafoam in the crank case for about 300 miles. No over heating or issues with performance with the product in the engine.
The oil came out blacker than black as you'd expect since it apparently liquifies build up. Jeep has 193k miles and the sea foam didn't make it spring any leaks or hemorrhage oil from newly uncovered gasket problems.
It had a oil drip prior to sea foam so with the new oil being added I put in some rear main seal stop leak. It isn't s coating additive that adheres or clogs, apparently it attacks rubber seals and assuming they're in ok shape, will make them expand and thus prevent some leaking. I figured it's worth a shot as it has good reviews. I'll let you know when I run it for a few hundred miles and it makes its way through every nook.
The oil came out blacker than black as you'd expect since it apparently liquifies build up. Jeep has 193k miles and the sea foam didn't make it spring any leaks or hemorrhage oil from newly uncovered gasket problems.
It had a oil drip prior to sea foam so with the new oil being added I put in some rear main seal stop leak. It isn't s coating additive that adheres or clogs, apparently it attacks rubber seals and assuming they're in ok shape, will make them expand and thus prevent some leaking. I figured it's worth a shot as it has good reviews. I'll let you know when I run it for a few hundred miles and it makes its way through every nook.
Senior Member
In the "Ask a question thread" I posted about a problem with the aluminum tire valve caps that the previous owner had installed. They were seized up tight, could not budge them at all. The consensus was that new valve stems would need to be installed.
What I wound up doing was (carefully!) using a Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the caps and pry them apart with a screwdriver to remove them. (Figured if I damaged them I'd still be in the same boat, needing the stems replaced. Had one failed I would have thrown on the spare tire and headed out to a shop.)
This worked out really well. There is some light grinding into the valve stem threads but not enough to hurt anything. They work fine now, I can check tire pressure and add air as needed.
Stage 1:
Stage 2:
Stage 3:
Done!
What I wound up doing was (carefully!) using a Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the caps and pry them apart with a screwdriver to remove them. (Figured if I damaged them I'd still be in the same boat, needing the stems replaced. Had one failed I would have thrown on the spare tire and headed out to a shop.)
This worked out really well. There is some light grinding into the valve stem threads but not enough to hurt anything. They work fine now, I can check tire pressure and add air as needed.
Stage 1:
Stage 2:
Stage 3:
Done!
Mine has that. The PO called it a cherry bomb. Basically a 2+ foot long 3-4" tube after the cat and a turn down...I'm not a fan of it. The dash and everything rattles at cruising RPMs and it's almost silent above 3k RPM. I don't think the inline 6 will really ever sound "good" at least not like a V8 ZJ...
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
In the "Ask a question thread" I posted about a problem with the aluminum tire valve caps that the previous owner had installed. They were seized up tight, could not budge them at all. The consensus was that new valve stems would need to be installed.
What I wound up doing was (carefully!) using a Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the caps and pry them apart with a screwdriver to remove them. (Figured if I damaged them I'd still be in the same boat, needing the stems replaced. Had one failed I would have thrown on the spare tire and headed out to a shop.)
This worked out really well. There is some light grinding into the valve stem threads but not enough to hurt anything. They work fine now, I can check tire pressure and add air as needed.
What I wound up doing was (carefully!) using a Dremel cutoff wheel to slice the caps and pry them apart with a screwdriver to remove them. (Figured if I damaged them I'd still be in the same boat, needing the stems replaced. Had one failed I would have thrown on the spare tire and headed out to a shop.)
This worked out really well. There is some light grinding into the valve stem threads but not enough to hurt anything. They work fine now, I can check tire pressure and add air as needed.
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: west chester, pa
Posts: 19,216
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Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Senior Member
I always wear eye protection when using the Dremel! (Or other power tools for that matter.) It mainly took a steady hand and keeping the cutting wheel away from the rubber part of the stem.
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,876
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1,239 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
::CF Moderator::
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Prescott, Az
Posts: 43,876
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Southern Maryland
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
Finished hooking up a CB, didn't have to tune anything since ch 40 was 1:1 perfect and that's what we use for everything here. It's just wedged between the passenger seat and the center console temporarily, still trying to decide on which CB to actually buy.
An I finally adjusted the JKS sway bar disconnects to accommodate the Synergy relocator brackets.
Going to Rausch Creek tonight for wheeling tomorrow in single-digit weather.
An I finally adjusted the JKS sway bar disconnects to accommodate the Synergy relocator brackets.
Going to Rausch Creek tonight for wheeling tomorrow in single-digit weather.