cleenrob

its 3/8 npt pipe which measures just a hair under 5/8" it fit nice and snug

im not sure about it grounding tho, the plug only has one wire coming from it

SteveMongr

I see.

Even though that one wire goes to the gauge, I believe the sender body needs to be grounded for it to function.

cleenrob

you are correct! out of curiosity i went out and wrapped some scrap 18g wire i had around the sensor and grounded it and it came right on!

thats odd to me that in needs a ground, now i just need to find a way to ground it permanatly

dmill89

All single-wire temp sensors need to be grounded. The temp sensor is just a thermistor that drops in resistance as temperature increases, the gauge increases as more current is directed to ground. If you ground the sensor wire directly it will peg the gauge.


Some gauges that use a two-wire sender (both + and - wires plug into the sensor) don't require that the sensor be grounded since current is directed to ground through the - wire instead.

SteveMongr

Good deal!
The ground completes the circuit. Some senders have the single wire attached with a screw. You may be able to unscrew it and install another wire with a ring terminal on it.
EDIT; after reading the previous post from dmill89, this may not work

cleenrob

that makes sense.

the adapter and sensor cost me 20$ total and ill be able to change the sender when it goes haywire again much easier. now i just have to properly shroud the fan and swap in my flow cooler pump and my cooling system should be a-ok

SG Mason

I haven't done anything to it yet today it is too early to be making noise, but if the weatherman isn't lying to me again I will be spraying some bed liner on the 6X2 rockers and doing a bit of seam sealing after a bit of weld grinding. While that is curing I will do the bondo work on the drivers side quarter panel, followed by getting as much of the prep work done to drop the transmission to finally change out my flex plate.

If the weatherman is lying to me I will head out and buy new battery, 95 YJ rear brake hose, and some hard line for the master cylinder to the back run so I can start doing the brakes. I can see clear skies to the west of me so I think I will be working on plan A first. I can do brakes in the rain, I can't paint or do body work in the rain. I really need a garage to work in I park my summer only car a week from today, if the weather would have cooperated I wouldn't be down to wire on getting the XJ finished.

FreddyD'Apice

So my girlfriends XJ is running rough like the idle and all, and is very hesitant under acceleration. I'm gonna do the plugs, wires, caps, rotor, and O2 since they're all bad and need to replaced anyway. Is that a good start? I'm really hoping its not the fuel pump. Also could I clean the IAC? If so how? Would that do anything?

cruiser54

Yes. Do all but the fuel pump first.

Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling.

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Revised 10-6-2014

Randy871

I'm posting from the future lol but today I'm loading up my tools and changing jobs, need more money for jeep projects!

BER_Cherokee01

I purchased mine. Found a nice stock '01 and talked the guy down from $4500 to $4000 (not much talk, he was ready to sell). Guy is a real gentleman, asked him to drop it at a mechanic for a once over, they came back with it needing a new batter, front u-joints and a water pump. He replaced all parts new, with receipts and did not raise the price on me. So now I have a DD (future project) in the driveway.

salad

Nice! Congratulations and welcome! Just keep an eye on that coolant level

SG Mason

Been bouncing all over the place today, painted the crossmember behnd the bumper and the hitch with POR 15 gloss black. Finally got the bondo work done on both quarter panels, took the drivers side doors off once again and sprayed my 6x2 rocker, along with the lower door openings, with bed liner. Was hoping to get the passenger side done too, but the sun is starting to set and the bed liner is still a touch soft. I hope that it cures enough that I can get the doors back on before night fall

OH I also picked up some new plug wires while running around today.

884x4

Well the other day I fixed my power steering hose that was pissing all over my inner fender well.
Then I adjusted my steering stops so my otk steering would stop hitting my coils(trimmed the buckets as far back as they can be)
and I finally finished the last few things with my steering and my ota track bar.
I painted them again and lowered my ota track bar one hole on each bracket so it wouldn't hit my oil pan at full bump.
Steering is a little shiny for my taste but it ain't too bad

Firehawk068

I think it looks great!
Very nice!