Jeep Cherokee Forum

Go Back   Jeep Cherokee Forum > Technical Discussion > Technical Write-Up/How To Section > XJ Write-Ups
Register Forgot Password?
Search

Welcome to Cherokee Forum!
Welcome to Cherokee Forum,

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!


Closed Thread
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 10-02-2011, 02:56 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 1

View ggibby's Photo Album My Photos
Cherokee
Default Replacing hood latch cable on 2001 XJ

So, one day I went to pop the hood, and the hood release handle came off in
my hand. The cable had rusted through right where it met the handle.

Contemplating my mechanic's hourly rate ($85), the price of the part ($44),
and the state of my bank account, I decided this was gonna be fixed by me.

Summary:
Remove the handle bracket, cut the sheathing and open the hood,
then pull the old part out, thread in the new one, check for operation,
and clean up.

Vehicle:
2001 XJ Cherokee Sport

Time: If working solo, about 40 minutes and/or one beer.
With help, 30 minutes. Beer consumption may vary.

Tools:
Stubby Philips head screwdriver
7/16 deep socket, 3" extension, and wrench
T30 torx bit, 1/4" socket, 3" extension, and wrench
Vise Grips
Knife (or hefty wire cutters)
WD-40
Nut bowl (for holding/cleaning screws, nuts, bolts)

Click the image to open in full size.

Part:
Dorman Hood Release Cable #912-006 (got mine from AutoZone.com)
Click the image to open in full size.
The part is completely assembled - don't take anything off.
It will go in pretty smoothly, with a minimum of grunting.

As stated above, my cable broke with the hood closed.
The hood had been trouble before, but I didn't suspect the cable.
If your hood release system is working, open it before you start - you'll save a couple steps.

Step 1: With the Philips driver, remove the two screws holding the interior molding just inside the door:
Click the image to open in full size.
Pull both to get enough play so you don't bend the piece when extracting the kick panel.

Step 2: The kick panel is held on with a one of the low-panel screws and a 7/16" panel nut in a recessed well:
Click the image to open in full size.
With a deep socket and extension, it's pretty easy to remove.
Click the image to open in full size.
Knowing what the connection-well looks like, you can see that the nut doesn't need to be completely removed,
since the panel has more of a hook than a hole:
Click the image to open in full size.
See? You're ahead of the game already.

Step 3:
The handle bracket is secured with three T30 Torx screws:Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
it's not under any tension, so pull them all in your order of preference.

Optional - opening the hood
The cable sheath has two plastic layers, black and white with a copper wire mesh between.
Take it easy and cut-n-bend until the steel cable is exposed:
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.
Then grab with Vise Grips and pull slowly, holding the sheath:
Click the image to open in full size.

Step4: The cable is connected to the release system on the hood with a bead:
Click the image to open in full size.
The bracket is riveted on and pretty sturdy, so it will flex enough without bending
that you can give yourself room to wiggle the bead free.
Resist the temptation to use a lever - it's not necessary.

Note the clips and path of the old cable:
Click the image to open in full size.
The clips aren't fragile, but you don't get replacements with the new part, so 'romance' the cable out, don't yank.
Note that the lower clip below the insulation attaches to a steel collar on the cable:
Click the image to open in full size.

Once the old cable is completely free, it's just a matter of pulling the old cable out and threading in the new one.
Cutting the cable at the bracket will save some time here, since you can pull from the engine side,
but this will strand the firewall gasket:
Click the image to open in full size.
While if you pull the old cable into the cab you'll get a preview
of the angles and gymnastics you'll need to push the new cable through.
With one person, this will involve hopping from cab to engine compartment, but move carefully
(watch the foil wrap on the insulation ion the firewall hole-edge) and it won't take long.

With the new cable fed through, secure the bead and sheath end:
Click the image to open in full size.
and clip the new cable in.

Seating the firewall gasket will also require some hopping,
and I'd used the opening for an inverter direct-line so it was a bit more snug than yours might be.
Push it up as far as you can from cab side, then pull from engine side
until the notch in the gasket meets the edge of the hole.

This is an excellent time to check and clean (soak with WD-40) the two latches and fulcrum (cable connection).
As mentioned above, I had hood-latch problems in the past, and upon examination found that the fulcrum joint was frozen.
Click the image to open in full size.
Liberal application of WD-40 and some gentle coaxing with Vise-Grips got it moving again.
I suspect this might need regular attention and maybe a new return spring on the passenger side latch.


The three Torx screws go back in with no struggle.
Test the latch and cable operation several times before restoring the kick panel and screws.


The Philips screws holding the interior panels might be at a slightly weird angle,
but patience is rewarding.

I hope this helps!
ggibby is offline  
Old 10-02-2011, 02:56 PM
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Closed Thread

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
hood latch richm1941 OEM Cherokee Tech 0 09-05-2011 11:49 AM
hood cable broke under hood mmattern1985 OEM Cherokee Tech 3 08-12-2011 07:16 PM
Replacing Driver's Door Latch Help red97cherokeewithsunroof OEM Cherokee Tech 6 05-27-2011 10:11 PM
1997 - 2001 Jeep Cherokee Hood Release Cable with Handle 1ATony Vendor Showcase 0 12-28-2010 01:42 PM
1997 - 2001 Jeep Cherokee Hood Release Cable with Handle 1ATony Vendor Showcase 0 05-24-2010 01:06 PM


Tags
hood cable
Go Back   Jeep Cherokee Forum > Technical Discussion > Technical Write-Up/How To Section > XJ Write-Ups



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:49 AM.


This site is in no way affiliated with Jeep or Chrysler.

Emails Backup