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Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!ZJ (93-98), WJ (99-04), WK (05+)
All ZJ/WJ/WK specific tech questions asked here!
I wore braces and then a retainer for another couple years afterward. Back then it felt like a lifetime.
The money from the stealership is back in my pocket for now. The rotor has been unstuck. The rust bond around the hub finally yielded with multiple direct blows with a real BFH around the face/edge. I beat the bag out of that thing and it felt good.
Enjoying my success for a minute, I paused for a cold Octoberfest. Putting together all the lessons learned from the driver's side struggle and thoroughly (well almost) refreshed, I went at the passenger side rear assembly with a vengeance. It was completely dismantled in 30 minutes.
Onward to the shaft-pulling. I don't own one but think I need a slide hammer now. Do I?
Last edited by Cherryokee; 10-01-2016 at 06:09 PM.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
"I went at the passenger side rear assembly with a vengeance. It was completely dismantled in 30 minutes."
That's the spirit. Full of confidence now (if not German beer) are we? He's on a roll.
As far as the puller, I doubt it will be that easy. Are we trying to change axle bearings?
If the axles need to come out you likely need to remove the diff cover, then the 5/16" bolt that holds the center pin, then the pin, and then gently slide the shaft in just enough to get the C clips off, then back out. Once you go through it you'll have it mastered and no puller needed at all.
No He Doesn't!! There are no C-Clips in the newer D35s. The way you can tell the difference is the ones with the c-clips have studs and nuts holding the axle seals in. The newer ones have bolts and nuts.
You'll need a slide hammer, but not a big one. The main show is getting the bearings off the shafts and putting the new ones on. There is a "soft" collar behind the bearing that can be drilled 1/2 way thru and split with chisel. The bearing is more of a problem.
CAUTION! If you've never worked with pressed-on caged bearings, they can shatter very easily. High velocity pieces of razor-sharp hardened steel can kill! Seriously! A friend of mine is alive today because of the quick reaction of his wife. He was pressing a NEW bearing on a shaft in a press when it blew up, severing an artery in his upper arm. This is no joke. He had done this many times before, but got careless. He says he thinks the bearing got cocked when it started and when it got tight, he just powered on. I had mine done in my friend's shop. He used an air-hammer and punch to remove the old one.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
ZOIKS! I defer to what Dave said, he is more familiar with the 2000 than I am.
Back in the day when I used a slidehammer on the 67 Buick axles, and others, I would then just break the old bearings off with ...yes...the bfh. Then slide the new ones on and using a suitable length of pipe, pound them on.
Since then I have found that the Universal Joint and Sales driveline shop here is hard to beat in every instance. Just bring in the axles and for like $25 they provide an American bearing *they say chineese is cheep idk* and press it on ..same day. Can't beat that. Or you could beat it all day, your choice.
I was thinking of U joints, bearings will be slightly more than $25 installed
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 10-02-2016 at 05:37 AM.
Waitaminit!!! I thought my WJ had a D44!! And my axle retainer has stud and nuts! If it's not truly ready for the next step then I might just as well be pulling my pud! I reserved the axle puller set at my local AP and was ready to start yanking this afternoon. So, where does that leave me (before I get too far into this)? Set me straight, willya? 2000 WJ Limited AWD 4.7L V8 - D35 or D44??? Does the Dana# matter in this regard?
Last edited by Cherryokee; 10-02-2016 at 09:31 AM.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Google it. Because that's what I would do and then tell you.
Since it's Sunday, I will be closed for the retainer of the day. Good luck, and should you fail, the State Department will disavow any knowledge of your mission.
Booya! It does have studs, don't it? In that case, pull the diff cover and look for c-clips. You'll probably need the puller anyhow. The fact that it might be a D44 went right by me. If you do have c-clips, put the cross-shaft back in so you don't loose the shims behind the planet gears. It's a PITA to re-assemble it if they fall out.
IF it has c-clips, it probably has flat roller bearings on the axles and you'll need a puller to remove them. Inspect the axles for wear grooves.
The information I gave you was for a D35 like mine. I've never had a D44 apart myself so IDK what I'm talking about for sure. Please don't shoot me!
I was looking at parts on rockauto.com and it seems there is a difference in parts if it was built before or after 3/31/00. It looks like it may have cartridge bearings after that date. Once in a while, I stick my foot in my mouth and say something IDK for sure. I'm REALLY sorry if I lead you astray.
I have to add that the reason for the bolts and nuts on the cartridge bearing axles is because they hold the bearings against side force, whereas on the others, the c-clips do that so the studs just have to hold the seal and backing plate on.
Booya! It does have studs, don't it? In that case, pull the diff cover and look for c-clips. You'll probably need the puller anyhow. The fact that it might be a D44 went right by me. If you do have c-clips, put the cross-shaft back in so you don't loose the shims behind the planet gears. It's a PITA to re-assemble it if they fall out.
Dave1123 and all, thank you for your inputs, advice and shared wisdom.
It's done. Thankfully, there were no c-clips to remove. I did not have to open the rear diff cover.
The axle flanges were sand-blasted, cleaned and painted. I installed all fresh axle bearings and seals (Timken "Set31"). The assembly was put back together with new Rayb'os parking brake shoes, hardware, pads and rotors. The "pulsing" sensation is no more, along with the high speed "vibe" (which I had not spoken-of before, but it was apparently associated with same, had to be due to the bearings after-all). Now to get the parking brake shoes adjusted to where they belong (trial and error - but it's almost there - touchy little buggers). It feels good to drive it again.
Next-up, maybe I'll do the u-joints, but will definitely do the rear sway bar bushings and end links as there was too much play for my liking when I swung from it. It's a handy pull-up bar for getting under and out-from-under the jeep, and that's how I found it was loose.
Lesson learned: The Rayb'os parking brake hardware kit includes adjusters but the end-notches of the adjusters did not fit over the shoes. Neither of the new or original parking brake adjusters would fit over the Rayb'os parking brake shoes. I used my Dremel with a grinding disk to remove a small amount of material from each side of the park brake shoes to thin the ends where the adjuster end notches are supposed to fit over.
10-01-2016, 04:14 PM
