Moco

You have a sharp eye Dave. Yes, there is a sticker on the underside of the hood showing a 2004 PCM update - that's when they did the recall. And so yes, while this truck has had everything else neglected, it does appear to make regular trips to Jiffy Lube every 3-5K miles.

Dave, can you confirm that the oil pan will infact drop WITHOUT removing the exhaust? I absolutely will not mess with the header and exhaust on this truck as that has miserable agony written all over it. I plan on pulling the starter, jacking the frame up really high and perhaps even disconnecting motor mounts and raising the engine in order to get at the pan and wiggle it out.

Moco

Also, Dave, can you tell me how that wiring harness holder that runs north to south above the heat shield adjacent to the valve cover comes off? It looks like there are 3 plastic holders that snap onto studs, but last night it was light and I was tired and in no mood to snap those things. I really dont need to move the harness, but was wondering if there is a trick to it?

Moco

This is the old girl by the way:

Moco

Dave,

Do you know what this is? Its this rubber thing between the transmission and engine block. Its obscuring the last bolts to the oil pan, but the only way I can get to those two bolts is to obliterate this rubber piece. I just need to know what it is so I can replace it. Its already half torn away in these photos:

dave1123

It looks like part of the pan gasket that covers the rear bearing cap. It looks like the rear main seal is NOT leaking because the torque converter drive plate is dry. That torn seal is probably the main source of the oil leak. It looks swollen.

No, I can't confirm the pan will come off without removing the exhaust because I've never done one myself. I'm not going to say one way or the other without first hand experience, but that's me.

Moco

Let me confirm then. On a stock WJ with no lift whatsoever, the pan will easily come out by using 6 ton jackstands under the frame. I mean it wasnt even an issue - slipped right out.

So Im having a hell of a time trying to get the main bearing cap off to get ot the RMS, I removed the bolts but the cap is stuck in place. Is there a good way to knock it out without damaging the cap?

dave1123

You should be able to put a soft punch against it and tap it rearward. It should rock up on the front edge and pop off. You may have to rotate the crank to get the counterweight out of the way. At least that's the way it worked on sbc's.

That injector harness just slips down over threaded studs and you should be able to just pry it up off the threads, gently or the plastic may crack.

Roxette Rose

This is a great thread Moco and really appreciate you sharing with us your journey so far.

I have owned a 2000 2.5td XJ for a while now and am considering selling it /part swapping for a 4.0l with LPG around the same era/style, because of predominately the issues you've noticed on that particular Jeep, such as corroded break lines, leaking or failed steering damper, CV joint and bearing issues, water pump failure and blown gaskets. I know they can happen to any of the models from that era, but it seems more common with the 2.5l

I am an honest seller and just before putting it up for sale, I noticed coolant dripping from the the front most splash guard/splash lip under the radiator, on the passenger side. The reservoir was almost dry/empty and the fan ramps up heavily as the gauge hits 100c within only a few minutes of idling from a cold(literally cold) start.

This only started happening the other day after I made some one hour non stop trips back and forth two ways for several days in a row. I suspect when shutting off the vehicle, the coolant had nowhere to travel so it expanded the hose and either caused a split, or maybe a seal blew. It seems like it's coming from either where the hose meets the radiator or from the bottom left of the radiator itself(which is common on these). However I suppose it could be the seal on the water pump.

In your original post you mentioned about the leaking coolant on this girl's Jeep, and then you later stated it was the pump seal. I hope it's not the seal - if I recall getting behind everything to the pump was not a fun thing to do.
I couldn't get it to a shop and I myself did not see any loose fittings or clamps. I went outside a few minutes ago, at what is now 11:45 pm and sure enough it's still dripping about every five seconds.

My main concern is whether it's driveable, and can limp around as long as I keep the reservoir topped up.

Moco

Yeah I got the main bearing cap off, but the main bearing cap doesnt have the 'ears' to take the bottom of the RMS:





Should I just cut off the ears? Every write up / youtube Ive seen for the RMS on a 4.0 has the depression for the ears. This is a 2000 model year 4.0. What gives and how to best approach getting this done?

Moco

The pump is cake - I wish I had just replaced the WP and called it a day.

Where are you located?

dave1123

Looking at part numbers, the 2000 gasket set has a different number than the one for the early 4.0s. If it was mine, I'd just get the proper rear seal. You'd have to cut the ears off exactly right so it wouldn't leak. Personally, I don't think it needed to be replaced.

Roxette Rose

Is it? Maybe I am thinking of the diesel motor.

Any ways, I am far far away, like with an ocean between us far away.

Moco

Just to update out the thread:

I did in fact cut the RMS, it was no biggie, I used the upper half as a template and gave a dab or RTv on the edges where it meets the bearing cap. The engine looked pretty good for a 190k miles survivor:





After some cleaning and replacement of parts, the motor sure cleaned up nice. It went from this:






To this:









Here she is ready to roll:

Moco

After all is said and done, my main mission has ended in failure

The coolant leak persists! If parked on level ground with the fan not running, there is are drop of coolant emanating from the middle of the engine, dripping off the crank pulley onto the ground. If the car is park on a downward slope, not a drop! I had her running on driveway, parked facing downhill for 45 minutes and the ground was dry as dust. The minute you put it on level ground, it leaks. When the fan comes on, it quits leaking, if the car is off, it doesnt leak.

Im at my wits end, I changed the water pump, water pump inlet tube, thermostat housing, thermostat, radiator hoses, and one of the heater core coolant tubes (the other one seemed OK and i didnt want to risk damaging the heater core). I checked and the cylinder head looks OK, the head gasket is OK, and the block is OK.

I have no idea - I feel completely spent and demoralized. I spent 20 hours of labor on this truck over the weekend and didnt solve the main problem.

dave1123

It IS possible you got a bad water pump off the shelf. It DOES happen occasionally. I'd say the impeller shaft seal is leaking. Free replacement doesn't include your labor though! I looked at your parts layout but couldn't tell who made it.

Apparently you replaced the headlights also. Good move! Just be sure to aim them soon because the adjusting screws quit working quickly. You will notice a marked difference in nightime driving. Use a wet cloth to clean them and don't dry wipe them because they scratch easily. Maguire's makes a scratch-resistant coating similar to that used on eyeglasses that helps.