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Old 01-20-2011, 05:12 PM   #1
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Question Transfer case interchangeability for 95 cherokee sport?

I have a 95 cherokee sport 4.0L 4x4. I had to get the starter changed and had the whole thing inspected. The guy who looked at it said it needs a new drive shaft and transfer case. The parts aint cheap and im trying to see if I can get a donor car so I can get new shocks and other parts. There is a 96 close by thatd work but I dont want to buy it unless the parts are going to work with my 95.

I also googled for about 2 hours trying to find info on interchangeable parts and didnt find anything.
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Old 01-20-2011, 05:55 PM   #2
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I think your Googler is broke.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np231.htm

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/np242.htm
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Old 01-20-2011, 08:58 PM   #3
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I guess it is broken... Thank you very much!
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Originally Posted by SunDevilJeeper
the hell is that? I shall consult google.
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:01 PM   #4
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Old 01-20-2011, 09:34 PM   #5
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I'm curious why your mechanic who was changing a starter thinks you need a new transfer case and drive shaft. Did they drive it? And if so are there issues with the t-case. Unless the drive shaft is bent or badly dented, new u-joints will fix what ails it.
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What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.

RE short arms with drop brackets, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:35 AM   #6
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Yes they drove it. See my Parents decided seeing its already there why not get it completely checked over as a "just in case" thing. The driveshaft is bent and i guess the transfercase id leaking or something. I dont remember all that he said but more or less he told me i need new stuff. Because the last 2 owners didnt do a very good job of fixing the problems with the drive shaft/transfer case.

So seeing im 16 and dont know enough about jeeps to solve this problem. I thought i should ask. Now i have something to work on coz im not paying for it to be done unless i have to. Hope that helps with your question.
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the hell is that? I shall consult google.

Last edited by Axel1831; 01-21-2011 at 09:40 AM.
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Old 01-21-2011, 09:41 PM   #7
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If the shaft is bent you would have a bad vibration when going down the road, if not it's fine. Mine has dents in it from the trail but is still balanced.
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What I lack in technique I make up for with skinny pedal.

RE short arms with drop brackets, 6" Rusty's TJ coils, RE 4.5" leaves, HD Offroad shackle relos, 2" shackle, D44 with chromos and a Spartan (welded), D60 Hobart locked with chromos, 38" TSL Bias on Eaton Beadlocks front and DIY beadlocks rear, partial cage, lots of rock love and a Warn for when I thought I could but was wrong.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:40 AM   #8
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It has vibrations at 50+ on the road. Plus the transfer case and drive shaft are leaking. See it drives perfectly. But i guess because its leaking it could start a fire or something. So that fall under the "unsafe" catagory. So because it isnt holding the fluids it needs too i need to replace the transfer case and driveshaft.

The parts cherokee im looking it is for 600 bucks. Drivers side door is smashed in realky good and is said to be totalled. So i can get the small tires, shockd, extra engine and trans, and working transfer case and driveshaft.

So its not a big deal but thank you for the information (i have a feeling your trying to help save me money. But im probly going to have to do it myself or in my automotive class at my school)
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:43 AM   #9
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Leaks can be repaired. Replacing the entire t-case is nothing less than idtiotic.

Determine the source of the leak and fix it.
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Old 01-22-2011, 08:49 AM   #10
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the t/case is a lot of work compared to an output shaft seal, and the seal is about 5$(if its just 1 seal). the drive line is easy and has to come off to do the seal. it just seams odd that its leaking so you need a new one... but to each there own. 600$ for a running parts car isn't bad. if thats the way you want to do it great. but could save time by doing just the seal and drive line for now.

its not impossible that the fluid can't be dangerous. but it would be horrible luck if it caught fire, and maybe a 5% chance...
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Drove it, wheeled it, left it, and SOLD it
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:18 AM   #11
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I was told that something was bent/broken and it needs to be replaced. Idk y. I know the drive shafts bad but idk aboit the t-case
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the hell is that? I shall consult google.

Last edited by Axel1831; 01-22-2011 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:27 AM   #12
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Yes, it's gonna cost $5-10 for a JY replacement, another $5-10 for a rear seal, a little bit of RTV and you're golden.
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:36 AM   #13
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The write up i got says something about bad seal and possible broken cone/shaft. So idk what u wanna take outta that but thats the info i have from the machanic
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Old 01-22-2011, 11:36 AM
 
 
 
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