tc drops suck!!!
#1
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
tc drops suck!!!
well i finally got my 4.5 rc lift in and put my tc drop in. wow... what a difference........ NOT!!! it took care of some of my vibs but i still have a clunk when slowing down. so i guess its time for a sye. i was j/w if i could use the iron rock off road hack n tap with a front driveshaft for my jeep? its a four door auto with the np231 and 8.25..... please please tell me i can use this kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#2
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
well i finally got my 4.5 rc lift in and put my tc drop in. wow... what a difference........ NOT!!! it took care of some of my vibs but i still have a clunk when slowing down. so i guess its time for a sye. i was j/w if i could use the iron rock off road hack n tap with a front driveshaft for my jeep? its a four door auto with the np231 and 8.25..... please please tell me i can use this kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#3
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Year: 1996
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i guess my question is is could i use the iron rock hack an tap on my 231? or do i have to do the sye. the hack an tap is way cheaper and looks a lot easier to me!!
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: l6 HO
well i finally got my 4.5 rc lift in and put my tc drop in. wow... what a difference........ NOT!!! it took care of some of my vibs but i still have a clunk when slowing down. so i guess its time for a sye. i was j/w if i could use the iron rock off road hack n tap with a front driveshaft for my jeep? its a four door auto with the np231 and 8.25..... please please tell me i can use this kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#6
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
did you even shim the axle so that the pinion pointed further up?
your 96 cherokee has a t-case with a sealed output on the output shaft. in other words, it doesn't use the slip yoke to keep it from leaking.
that means, that if you can find the properly splined yoke, you could just chop and tap your output shaft and bolt the yoke on, and run a grand cherokee V8 front driveshaft
that would be under $200
your 96 cherokee has a t-case with a sealed output on the output shaft. in other words, it doesn't use the slip yoke to keep it from leaking.
that means, that if you can find the properly splined yoke, you could just chop and tap your output shaft and bolt the yoke on, and run a grand cherokee V8 front driveshaft
that would be under $200
#7
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Year: 1996
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yes i shimmed. but it is still clunking... i just want to get it so it is perfect. I couldn't imagine being on the trail with it the way it is now....walking home after the ds failed!!
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#8
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
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how many miles are on the axle ujoints?
if it's alot, replace them. they've worn into a pattern and you've changed it...so they will now make noise.
if you already replaced them, then I'd suggest trying a simple fix first...get a YJ wrangler slip-yoke. it will allow you approx. 13 degrees more of travel up and down.
if it's alot, replace them. they've worn into a pattern and you've changed it...so they will now make noise.
if you already replaced them, then I'd suggest trying a simple fix first...get a YJ wrangler slip-yoke. it will allow you approx. 13 degrees more of travel up and down.
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Year: 1987
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Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Sounds like you're barking up the wrong tree, Bro. I have never had a clunk caused or fixed by my TC drop. My TC drop got rid of all the vibes caused by my lift. If you have a clunk when slowing down, I'd look for loose suspension pieces or bad U-joints, R and P or something else in the drivetrain.
#10
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There are two issues here I think. One is possibly the drive shaft yoke binding. If it is the case, you can substitute a YJ slip yoke for the one you have. They have longer ears and most of the time will take care of the binding.
The other is probably an alignment issue. Transfer case drops are not always the best thing to use. What really matters in a driveline vibration is matching the angles of the differential and tcase. It is possible to make the problem worse with a drop. The angles on both need to be less than 5 degrees apart. I realize that the factory specs say within 1 degree, but this information comes from personal experience and also Six States Distributing.
The other is probably an alignment issue. Transfer case drops are not always the best thing to use. What really matters in a driveline vibration is matching the angles of the differential and tcase. It is possible to make the problem worse with a drop. The angles on both need to be less than 5 degrees apart. I realize that the factory specs say within 1 degree, but this information comes from personal experience and also Six States Distributing.
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
check this out man this is what me and my friend are going to do to our jeeps
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959008
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Year: 1996
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so will the iron rock kit and a new ds fix my problem.... I've lifted a ton of trucks and never had a problem... first jeep and i am starting to wish i hadn't lifted it. If i tap the gas on and off i can here the ds clunk... I'm more than positive because i went over all the suspension bolts yesterday and i drove about 14 miles today. same as it was b4 i checked everything....