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Radiator. Replacement
#16
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Monett, MO.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
First you should have flushed you engine/heater core using a cleaner several times before you even start that really needs to be done. Make sure you have the heater on while doing this so the core is cleaned.
Choose the best radiator you can afford, then pick up 2 new rubber mounts for it. While your at it you might as well replace the water pump they are cheap and check the fan clutch. Also replace both radiator hoses along with a new thermostat, belts and temp sending unit.
These items are pretty much a no brainer when replacing the radiator then you know your good to go and no issues in the end.
Choose the best radiator you can afford, then pick up 2 new rubber mounts for it. While your at it you might as well replace the water pump they are cheap and check the fan clutch. Also replace both radiator hoses along with a new thermostat, belts and temp sending unit.
These items are pretty much a no brainer when replacing the radiator then you know your good to go and no issues in the end.
#17
Just got this
I just bought this and im a little confused about the double electric fan . Isn't the second fan gonna be in the way of the big belt fan . Im gonna undertake the project this weekend and just trying to gather as much info as possible
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Eastern Long Island, NY
Posts: 952
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 Cyl / 4L
There recent is this thread that talked about aluminum rads
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/eba...diator-235636/
Lots of welds may leaf eventually.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/eba...diator-235636/
Lots of welds may leaf eventually.
#22
Don't take a shortcut and it won't take as long
I have a 1999 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.7L and needed to replace the radiator. I tried the shortcut the folks mention: just trying to pull it up. Problem is, the fan shroud sometimes does not come up exactly like the super-wrenchers suggest. I eventually bit the bullet and took off the whole front end:
I wrestled with the super-wrencher short cut method for two days, and if everything goes easy (which it never goes easy for me) then its a great quick way to replace a radiator. On the other hand, if you got a rust-thumb and not a grease thumb when it comes to screwing things up, I would just take the slightly longer way and not wrestle with anything by doing it right the first time. I used a a long, flat and rectangular target-purchased plastic storage container to catch my fluid and then funneled it into gallon-sized jugs that I had saved to the side (you can buy these for a buck or two at wally world and dump out the water). Most recyclers, landfills, and/or honda motorcycle shops will recycle it for you (u just aren't supposed to dump it with your normal trash and most auto parts stores take oil but not coolant). After consulting with many, many, many mechanics who told me about the super-wrench method I began to realize why they are always taking so dang long and why they cost so dang much. NOTE: I may have left a step out somewhere or done it different than you did or there is something that I can't think of . . . if you want, I could do it for you for twenty million bucks and we can test that theory.
Some things I learned about the trans cooler: people will tell you crazy stuff like it cools the transfer case. That may be the case, but not in my jeep: it goes to the transmission and if you run it without the hose line attached, a Malfuntion Indicator Light will tell you your transmission is over heating. That will do little damage if you stop within a mile or two and let it cool for about an hour. Otherwise, if you run it more than about a couple milese, you may find out you will drop a tranny.
- remove the rubber front bumper cover (screws and bolts underneath the front end)
- remove the grill and its air screen (shiny thing in the front and the black plastic thing behind it in some models)
- CAREFULLY AND ENVIRONMENTALLY remove the A/C radiator (may need a new charge can for this afterward and if you want to do it the responsible way, take it to a garage for them to drain for you)
- Remove the trans cooler and the posts & mechanism for the hood
- to do all of this you might need to remove the cross member on top, the headlight assemblies and the headlight bracket (big black thing the lights screw into
- remove the plug and drain the radiator, remove the hoses (I say replace these and HIGHLY consider replacing the water pump and thermostat)
- Remove and replace the radiator cap, remove and maybe replace the hose that goes to the overflow reservoir (replace the reservoir so it looks good? I didn't, but you could)
- Remove the fan shroud (don't forget to unplug the black idling fan) and radiator
- Be ready to replace the trans cooler lines with high-pressure hose if needed or buy new trans cooler lines heck! go by the cooler too, might as well right?
- Also be ready to replace the heater core (that will be an all day job and for another post)
- Consider replacing the fan clutch too, that is something you should do while "you have the front end off"
I wrestled with the super-wrencher short cut method for two days, and if everything goes easy (which it never goes easy for me) then its a great quick way to replace a radiator. On the other hand, if you got a rust-thumb and not a grease thumb when it comes to screwing things up, I would just take the slightly longer way and not wrestle with anything by doing it right the first time. I used a a long, flat and rectangular target-purchased plastic storage container to catch my fluid and then funneled it into gallon-sized jugs that I had saved to the side (you can buy these for a buck or two at wally world and dump out the water). Most recyclers, landfills, and/or honda motorcycle shops will recycle it for you (u just aren't supposed to dump it with your normal trash and most auto parts stores take oil but not coolant). After consulting with many, many, many mechanics who told me about the super-wrench method I began to realize why they are always taking so dang long and why they cost so dang much. NOTE: I may have left a step out somewhere or done it different than you did or there is something that I can't think of . . . if you want, I could do it for you for twenty million bucks and we can test that theory.
Some things I learned about the trans cooler: people will tell you crazy stuff like it cools the transfer case. That may be the case, but not in my jeep: it goes to the transmission and if you run it without the hose line attached, a Malfuntion Indicator Light will tell you your transmission is over heating. That will do little damage if you stop within a mile or two and let it cool for about an hour. Otherwise, if you run it more than about a couple milese, you may find out you will drop a tranny.
#23
CF Veteran
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 1,576
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Year: 1995 RHD
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0l
I'm not discrediting what you've said as it sounds like a great write-up though for the job on a Grand Cherokee.
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