bdcontraplayr

****, I don't know. I thought I was getting it wrong. But apparently I'm not. On my way back from the store and I'll update as soon as I get a reading

DFlintstone

Reading back through it looks like maybe you didn't get to Cruisers #1 & 2 ? There is a reason they are top of the list! I'm big on the CPS largely because you can rule out that trickster in the time it takes to tie your shoes. (OK maybe boots). Everything goes through that cruddy C-101 connector, also these Jeeps are known to have grounding problems. Both puters' (ECU, TCU),and the injectors ground there on that dipstick stud.

bdcontraplayr

I did do 1 and 2. The thing is with my C101 is one of the previous owners bypassed it and connected everything wire to wire. I'll post a pic of it soon.

But now here's my problem, how do I use this meter?

bdcontraplayr

OK so watching a YouTube video I tried what I think was the right way. So I checked the resistance and the plug was giving a 211 and the volts shot up from like 2.6 to like a ~380.0 when I was cranking it over. Sounds right? No? I don't know

DFlintstone

EDITED

Holey Cow! A Fluke? (I'm envious!). How much was it? I'm not familiar with it's "auto ranging", but I can guess. First off the V, with a straight line will be for DC voltage. If you check your battery it should read 12 something, then closer to 14 running. Now see the V with a wiggly line? (~), that's AC volts. If you check a socket in your house it will be near 115 Volts.

So you would set it on AC Volts, connect the two leads directly to the two unplugged wires to your CPS, crank it and see if it's over .35 or so, to check the AC Volts out from the CPS. (also, hot, it's resistance should be 200 ohms, plus/minus 75)

The headphone looking symbol represents "ohms". Ohms are a measure if resistance. First just put the leads together. You may get a .something, like .1 or .2. Set on ohms for resistance, touch one lead on good metal anywhere on the engine/valve cover, and the other on battery negative. Like to see one ohm or less there. (I might have 1.2). Now the sensor ground harness. There is an easy spot on the MAP, but I think Cruiser likes to check it from the TPS because there are some crimped splices that go bad between there and there. Step 5 I think.

If I had one of those I'd leave the instructions next to the sitter and study it 10 minutes every morning! I suppose all of those buttons "do things"

bdcontraplayr

OK so I did #5 on cruiser's list and I got a reading of 476.6 ohms as soon as I made the connection to the negative terminal. When I shook the wires for the C101, it would jump around a lot. I don't know if this makes a difference, but this was a reading after my XJ was warmed up and stalled out on me.

So do I need to redo the grounds by the dipstick? I cleaned them off pretty good with a wire brush and electrical cleaner

DFlintstone

I'm gonna let Cruiser answer that. I can suggest you carefully wiggle different spots to try to isolate why/where wiggling makes the reading change.

So your C-101 is already bypassed. You might check that they are soldered. I pretty much never use crimp connectors. (I'd use a wire nut if I'm not soldering)

bdcontraplayr

The 211 was on the ohms setting and I just tested the connection going to the sensor, and the big jump was on the AC setting going into the sensor when I cranked it

DFlintstone

I see it has a button for "range". For the CPS you would want the lowest range that includes up to one volt. For ohms hopefully 200 will do it for ground checking. If CPS resistance goes up to 275, you would need a higher range, 500? Likewise if you were checking 110 or 220 in your house you would select a range that includes those readings. It may just flash a "1" if the signal it's getting is out of the range you selected.

DFlintstone

.26 ACV from the CPS is in line of the problem I was fishing for. 380 is just nuts. It very likely will be under one volt. Get a steady reading while it's hot and screwing up. It's only the voltage while it's cranking I'm familiar with. The 91 on CPS, (with a feed from a PCM, may have other tests). You mentioned U-tube...you gotta look at stuff for 87-90. The later is very different.

cruiser54

If the PO eliminated the C101 using butt connectors and not by soldering and shrink tubing, he went from bad to worse. Let's investigate that.

67 GMC

I thought some back-probing pics might help out the OP since he isn't too familiar with using voltmeter. Also, a lot of times the jeep won't run correctly if the sensor is out of the connector so back probing helps to see if the sensor is getting voltage or whatever while the engine is going. Like DFlintstone says, you use it for TPS for sure and any work on the TCU / ECU where you need the component hooked up for the Jeep to work.

bdcontraplayr

Yeah he used these little snap blue things that "connected" the wires. They seemed iffy, but I didn't have these problem until like 8 months into driving it. Figured it worked. Maybe I'll upload a video of my jeep running and getting it to stall so you guys can see and hear it.

The PO was an idiot. A lot of things were sliced and added in extra wire to stuff. But it was a pretty shoty job.

DFlintstone

Kool, and like so many little things I picked up a tip from it. In Pete's second photo he shows "back probing", just to hold the probes. Might be handy someday. I myself chop off the leads of my new meter and solder on small alligator clips. I can always clip that on a paperclip or something if I want to. Usually though it just means I don't need to hold the stupid thing. (not so handy for higher voltage though)

DFlintstone

OK You ready to solder? The PO did you no favor with those clips. All of the injectors, all of the sensors, (and their grounds), everything goes through there. Short version. You first slide shrink tube up one wire. Solder those matching color coded. It's a bit tricky twisting them smooth together, end to end so they stay firm while you solder. When the solder cools, slide the shrink tube over, heat it to shrink, repeat. (about 20 times). With the hot lead, the flux/rosin core solder, and any burning insulation you definitely, absolutely do not want to breath any of that. For all that a fan or the right breeze is almost a must.

I actually don't put my soldering gun away, it's right here on my desk, plugged in usually! (I'm still curious about a steady CPS output figure)