Heating up-Idle (please help)
#46
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Roler, Cruiser, Firestorm500, ExraShaky...you all have been very helpful but I do need some very basic, simplified instructions with as little mechanical jargon as possible please.
Prcherokee sent me a service manual for my last job (PDF format) I should have it in my message box let me find it and print it…
I know you all have more experience than I do but something is telling me it's not the pump
But what you all are saying is; I need a water pump, fan clutch, lower radiator hose and clamps, antifreeze...anything else?
Check out these pics, looks like another small leak:
Prcherokee sent me a service manual for my last job (PDF format) I should have it in my message box let me find it and print it…
I know you all have more experience than I do but something is telling me it's not the pump
But what you all are saying is; I need a water pump, fan clutch, lower radiator hose and clamps, antifreeze...anything else?
Check out these pics, looks like another small leak:
Last edited by WomanNeedsJeepExpertise; 07-31-2014 at 10:48 AM.
#47
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
The pump will probably not come with a heater hose fitting (the metal pipe sticking up out of the top of it). You can reuse the one you have, but you will need some thread sealant to make sure it doesn't leak where it screws into the water pump.
When you get into this job, give yourself plenty of time to do it and be patient. If you get impatient, the job gets more difficult. It's easy to get in a hurry and break things, which doesn't usually have a calming effect.
#50
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: Golen 4.6L
A couple of other things we may be taking for granted:
Any time you install something like a water pump that has multiple bolts holding it on, make sure that you don't crank one bolt all the way down while the others are loose. If you install a bolt and crank it down, then install the next bolt and crank it down, etc., you can put the housing and/or the bolts in a bind. That can break or warp parts or cause them not to seat properly and leak.
The way to avoid that is to get all the bolts finger tight, then snug them down one at a time, then tighten them each in turn by quarter turns. If the part you're working on has three bolts, do that in a circle. If it has four or more bolts, work in a criss-cross or "star" pattern to distribute the force evenly across the housing and avoid putting a single bolt under a lot of strain. Again, this goes for any part held together by multiple bolts, all the way down to the lug nuts on your wheels.
Also, the factory service manual is going to mention torque specifications. While it is not absolutely 100% necessary to use a torque wrench, it is a very good idea. The problem is that they are expensive. But if you don't have a torque wrench and don't mind spending the money, it's a very good thing to have in your tool box. If money is a concern, look at the torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. I personally wouldn't trust them, but it's better than nothing.
Someone in another thread just broke his thermostat housing because he was cranking on the bolts without measuring the proper torque. Tighter is not always better.
Any time you install something like a water pump that has multiple bolts holding it on, make sure that you don't crank one bolt all the way down while the others are loose. If you install a bolt and crank it down, then install the next bolt and crank it down, etc., you can put the housing and/or the bolts in a bind. That can break or warp parts or cause them not to seat properly and leak.
The way to avoid that is to get all the bolts finger tight, then snug them down one at a time, then tighten them each in turn by quarter turns. If the part you're working on has three bolts, do that in a circle. If it has four or more bolts, work in a criss-cross or "star" pattern to distribute the force evenly across the housing and avoid putting a single bolt under a lot of strain. Again, this goes for any part held together by multiple bolts, all the way down to the lug nuts on your wheels.
Also, the factory service manual is going to mention torque specifications. While it is not absolutely 100% necessary to use a torque wrench, it is a very good idea. The problem is that they are expensive. But if you don't have a torque wrench and don't mind spending the money, it's a very good thing to have in your tool box. If money is a concern, look at the torque wrenches at Harbor Freight. I personally wouldn't trust them, but it's better than nothing.
Someone in another thread just broke his thermostat housing because he was cranking on the bolts without measuring the proper torque. Tighter is not always better.
#51
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
The service manual is overwhelming for me. I've been looking for a YouTube vide but can't seem to find one for a 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L water pump replacement.
There is a leak at the cap, I just found it today. What type of cap do you recommend? Can't this cause overheating?
My water pump is steady and I just changed the serpentine belt, no noises at all but according to the picture it's a water leak, correct?
There is a leak at the cap, I just found it today. What type of cap do you recommend? Can't this cause overheating?
My water pump is steady and I just changed the serpentine belt, no noises at all but according to the picture it's a water leak, correct?
#52
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Cap is cheap and easy. Get one at NAPA or O'Reilly's.
Don't remove when hot.
Yes, a bad cap that is not holding the correct pressure can cause overheating.
Don't remove when hot.
Yes, a bad cap that is not holding the correct pressure can cause overheating.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 07-31-2014 at 01:27 PM.
#54
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You already have the FSM! Excellent.
So,give yourself some time and read through the waterpump replacement section. Trust me, it will be more clarifying than any written instructions on here.
This procedure was the very first thing I ever did on the XJ, or any car actually, besides changing a tyre. With nil automotive knowledge or experience whatsoever.
But I had some basic tools, two hands and...a FSM. You have already done several things on your XJ by the sound of thing, have two hands and are a woman, which gives you the advantage of being able to do more than one thing at the same time, compared to me, who can only do one thing a time (although I can alternate really quickly and make it look like doing two things at the same time .
So, don't get frightened by the FSM, read through the few pages about this replacement and then pop any questions you have one here.
Once again, happy to give instructions, but if somebody forgets a detail or step, you get stuck.
So,give yourself some time and read through the waterpump replacement section. Trust me, it will be more clarifying than any written instructions on here.
This procedure was the very first thing I ever did on the XJ, or any car actually, besides changing a tyre. With nil automotive knowledge or experience whatsoever.
But I had some basic tools, two hands and...a FSM. You have already done several things on your XJ by the sound of thing, have two hands and are a woman, which gives you the advantage of being able to do more than one thing at the same time, compared to me, who can only do one thing a time (although I can alternate really quickly and make it look like doing two things at the same time .
So, don't get frightened by the FSM, read through the few pages about this replacement and then pop any questions you have one here.
Once again, happy to give instructions, but if somebody forgets a detail or step, you get stuck.
#55
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Replace cap deff best way to check fan clutch is run engine to normal temp say 200 good enough turn engine off and with you hand spin the blades if it turns more than a half turn replace it .As for the water pump if you compare pics hers is leaking other direction from rad not pump. Id take a screw driver or socket and see if the clamps tight.
#56
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
I agree. Doing a quick check back through the posts, I don't see where anyone has checked the tightness of the clamps yet.
But that does not address her overheating problem. Which is still really the elephant in the room at this point.
That minor drip could be caused by an extremely hot engine, with a lot of coolant pressure, going past the clamp. I've seen it happen.
But that does not address her overheating problem. Which is still really the elephant in the room at this point.
That minor drip could be caused by an extremely hot engine, with a lot of coolant pressure, going past the clamp. I've seen it happen.
#57
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
I agree. Doing a quick check back through the posts, I don't see where anyone has checked the tightness of the clamps yet.
But that does not address her overheating problem. Which is still really the elephant in the room at this point.
That minor drip could be caused by an extremely hot engine, with a lot of coolant pressure, going past the clamp. I've seen it happen.
But that does not address her overheating problem. Which is still really the elephant in the room at this point.
That minor drip could be caused by an extremely hot engine, with a lot of coolant pressure, going past the clamp. I've seen it happen.
#60
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Year: 1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport
Replace cap deff best way to check fan clutch is run engine to normal temp say 200 good enough turn engine off and with you hand spin the blades if it turns more than a half turn replace it .As for the water pump if you compare pics hers is leaking other direction from rad not pump. Id take a screw driver or socket and see if the clamps tight.
I replaced the radiator cap but she's still overheating while idling. Has not reached the red yet but she'll go up to 230.
Since I've had her she's always right in the middle at 210. Is that good?
My son drove her to work so I'll check the fan clutch in the am.
I definitely, need to replace the lower hose the clamp is deteriorated and the hose is kind of soft.