drag link tierod end?

wvilstk · 03-20-2009, 11:53 PM

I am in the process of putting my drop pitman arm on from rustys. I was putting the drag link tie rod end into the dp arm with an inpact and stripped the threads out. What part do I need, is it a drag link tie rod end? Also, rustys is junk the factory pitman arm hole is much bigger then the supplied rustys. I realize this is a tapper fit but some things just arent possible, lets just say I drilled it out and am going to try again tomorrow. But I need your guys help what the hell is the tierod called that connects the drag link to the pitman arm?

wvilstk · 03-20-2009, 11:53 PM

Also can I get this from autozone or advanced or somthing?

a1racer · 03-21-2009, 12:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wvilstk

Also can I get this from autozone or advanced or somthing?

they have them at autozone for sure. that is where i bought one for mine but i don't know the part numbers

caged · 03-21-2009, 06:40 AM

what did you drill out? cause like you said, the hole is tapered. if you drill it, it won't be tapered anymore. then you'd have to use a heim joint and bolt.

also, you shouldn't use an impact on those parts until it's snug. but yeah, any jobber has them. it's just a right hand threaded tie rod end.

you're lucky it wasn't the other end, as it's not replaceable. you'd have to replace the whole drag link.

wvilstk · 03-21-2009, 09:06 AM

Yes I was forced to hone out the tapered end. There was absoulutley no way that it was going to snug up. Lets just say after I honed it out for a second time I still could not get the castle nut on far enought to get the cotter pin through at this point I didnt feel comfortable driving it. I did use a rachet first till I had nothing left in me then as a last resort used an IR gun and stripped the threads......Thanks rustys!!!!

caged · 03-21-2009, 11:37 AM

just call rusty and see what he says to do. he's pretty good with warranty and might even help you out in this matter.

wvilstk · 03-22-2009, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by caged

just call rusty and see what he says to do. he's pretty good with warranty and might even help you out in this matter.

I got it to work after some more honing and a new drag ling end. Im still gonna call rustys and let them know that there part needs to be modified. Also their trac bar mount needed some work 2 The holes that bolt to the bottom of the frame rail were a little more then a half inch off after the recomended prying in the directions im not kidding. They need to work on some fit and finish stuff

mike37 · 03-22-2009, 11:49 AM

sounds to me like you got some wrong parts

jpdocdave · 03-22-2009, 12:36 PM

^for sure, and that is down right dangerous honing out the taper fit. should've left it alone, and called, and got the right parts.

wvilstk · 03-23-2009, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jpdocdave

^for sure, and that is down right dangerous honing out the taper fit. should've left it alone, and called, and got the right parts.

I agree its not the best bet. dont worry guys ill be switch to a heim setup here shortly and there is still tapper in the hole and its still a super tight fit.

03-20-2009, 11:53 PM	#2
wvilstk Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Warrenville Posts: 104 My Photos 1998 limited Cherokee Engine: 4.0 stock Transmission: 42 RE stock Transfer Case: np 242 stock Front Axle: dana 30 stock Rear Axle: 8.25 stock Tires: 31x10.5x15 Lift Specifications: rough country 4 1/2 in add a leaf Misc Accessories: hypertech,afe intake, custom exhaust etc.	Also can I get this from autozone or advanced or somthing? __________________ Big Jeeps Little Jeeps Jeeps That Climb On Rocks

03-21-2009, 09:06 AM	#5
wvilstk Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Warrenville Posts: 104 My Photos 1998 limited Cherokee Engine: 4.0 stock Transmission: 42 RE stock Transfer Case: np 242 stock Front Axle: dana 30 stock Rear Axle: 8.25 stock Tires: 31x10.5x15 Lift Specifications: rough country 4 1/2 in add a leaf Misc Accessories: hypertech,afe intake, custom exhaust etc.	Yes I was forced to hone out the tapered end. There was absoulutley no way that it was going to snug up. Lets just say after I honed it out for a second time I still could not get the castle nut on far enought to get the cotter pin through at this point I didnt feel comfortable driving it. I did use a rachet first till I had nothing left in me then as a last resort used an IR gun and stripped the threads......Thanks rustys!!!! __________________ Big Jeeps Little Jeeps Jeeps That Climb On Rocks

03-22-2009, 11:49 AM	#8
mike37 CF Veteran Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Paso Robles Ca Posts: 2,473 My Photos 1991 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: AW4 - 4 speed Transfer Case: NP242 - "Selec-Trac" Front Axle: Dana 30 4.10 Rear Axle: ford 8.8 4.10 Tires: 31x10 ATs Lift Specifications: 3" Misc Accessories: K&N intake overhead rack with lots of lights	sounds to me like you got some wrong parts __________________ Paso Robles Ca http://www.cherokeeforum.com/picture...pictureid=6290

03-22-2009, 12:36 PM	#9
jpdocdave Senior Member Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: tan house white shutters key's under the flower pot Posts: 969 My Photos 1996 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Tires: 31" Lift Specifications: 2" bb	^for sure, and that is down right dangerous honing out the taper fit. should've left it alone, and called, and got the right parts. __________________ 96 xj sport 2" bb 31's 90 mj 4.0 4x4 d44 87 yj frame off (crazy red head) 90 yj soa pics of project "crazy redhead" http://s293.photobucket.com/albums/m...0build%20pics/

Thread Tools	Search this Thread
Show Printable Version Email this Page	Search this Thread: Advanced Search
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

03-21-2009, 06:40 AM	#4
caged CF Veteran Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,666 My Photos 1990 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: auto Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: d30hp w/lock-rite Rear Axle: d44 w/lock-rite Tires: 36 inch iroks/beadlocks Lift Specifications: 8 inch/staangs longarm Misc Accessories: warn bumper with warn 8000 / warrior roof basket	what did you drill out? cause like you said, the hole is tapered. if you drill it, it won't be tapered anymore. then you'd have to use a heim joint and bolt. also, you shouldn't use an impact on those parts until it's snug. but yeah, any jobber has them. it's just a right hand threaded tie rod end. you're lucky it wasn't the other end, as it's not replaceable. you'd have to replace the whole drag link.

03-21-2009, 11:37 AM	#6
caged CF Veteran Garage is empty, add now Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Guelph, Ontario, Canada Posts: 5,666 My Photos 1990 Cherokee Engine: 4.0 Transmission: auto Transfer Case: 231 Front Axle: d30hp w/lock-rite Rear Axle: d44 w/lock-rite Tires: 36 inch iroks/beadlocks Lift Specifications: 8 inch/staangs longarm Misc Accessories: warn bumper with warn 8000 / warrior roof basket	just call rusty and see what he says to do. he's pretty good with warranty and might even help you out in this matter.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Help with Tie Rod/Drag Link	Mully	OEM Cherokee Tech	11	01-29-2009 07:33 PM
HD tie rod and Drag linkage	GTABurnout	OEM Cherokee Tech	2	11-17-2008 01:30 PM
were does the tierod end go?	wicked_xj	OEM Cherokee Tech	8	05-15-2008 11:15 AM
thanxs 4 the help it was my tierod	wicked_xj	OEM Cherokee Tech	2	05-14-2008 11:22 AM
would a bad tierod cause	wicked_xj	OEM Cherokee Tech	41	05-10-2008 12:00 AM

03-23-2009, 09:24 AM