Ballast Resistor
#16
Thanks for the answer. The stalling is driving me nuts. Acts like something electrical getting hot and shutting down (failing) but runs like new after jeep cools down. soon as it get to full operating temp it starts stalling again. Yesterday I ran it up and down the driveway after warm up and it bucked and wouldn't pull it's own weight. First time I have felt that'
#17
Well take my word for it, the damn thing get hot enough you wouldn't want to handle it more than a second or two. read in another place that they can overheat and lose connection so the motor stalls (no fuel) then in the few seconds it takes one to restart the wire inside it cools enough to make contact and the truck will start right back up, which is what mine does. Kinda makes sense explained as it was>
#18
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Year: 1990
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Well take my word for it, the damn thing get hot enough you wouldn't want to handle it more than a second or two. read in another place that they can overheat and lose connection so the motor stalls (no fuel) then in the few seconds it takes one to restart the wire inside it cools enough to make contact and the truck will start right back up, which is what mine does. Kinda makes sense explained as it was>
Why haven't you bypassed it yet?
#21
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#22
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Year: 90,84
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Yea it gets toasty enough, I'm sure plenty of folx would not want to touch it for more than a couple seconds. A Scott here who just processed three cords of wood in the last two days without gloves, but I can tell it's hot.
Btw Pete, I got a reading right on the E-fan sensor of 176* with it running. (AC and defrost of). So that 218* figure does seem to be a bit, well let's put it this way, the numbers are going to vary, depending on your pump, the rad, yada yada. (oh, and at the same time, I found a spot on the t-stat housing over 220*)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 10-09-2014 at 02:31 PM.
#23
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Year: 90,84
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Ign coil ballast resistors were on all makes to cut down on arking on the points. On Ford's "remote" solonoid the ignition bypass, "the other" wire, (that is not the solenoid activation), is the wire that put's straight voltage to the coil. On Chevy starter solenoids, likewise there is a third wire to feed the coil full voltage while cranking. I don't actually know, or want to think of what Chrysler did . I saw what they did later though.........
#25
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#26
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My 88s ballast resistor get hotter than hell!
But it's failing, every once in a while I have to by pass it, more lately than not lol.
A failing resistor will start the jeep then almost immediately die
But it's failing, every once in a while I have to by pass it, more lately than not lol.
A failing resistor will start the jeep then almost immediately die
#27
Ok, had to order a new resistor, installed it and no change what-so-ever.
here's the problem, as I fix one thing, something else must go or it just changes the symptoms to look like something else. Lets just take what it's doing at the moment and see your input. Here is a list of new parts I've put on: Alternator, Distributor (complete), Coil and Cradle it sits in, Idle Air Controller. Used Parts that are off of a good running 4.0L and known to be working properly. Throttle position sensor, ECM/ECU. Current Problem: Pioneer starts right up cold and runs like a new one, 20 -25 minutes later or when at operating temperature it acts like a Carburetor-ed auto that the throttle pump is bad in. In other words it wants to nose down, stumble, doesn't want to go, and lurches once moving. Shut it off and let it cool down and the damn thing runs like new again. Will repeat all day long. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer w/4.0L 4x4 4door 5 speed tranny. Really need my Jeep road worthy before the snow starts falling. Forever grateful for the correct answers.
here's the problem, as I fix one thing, something else must go or it just changes the symptoms to look like something else. Lets just take what it's doing at the moment and see your input. Here is a list of new parts I've put on: Alternator, Distributor (complete), Coil and Cradle it sits in, Idle Air Controller. Used Parts that are off of a good running 4.0L and known to be working properly. Throttle position sensor, ECM/ECU. Current Problem: Pioneer starts right up cold and runs like a new one, 20 -25 minutes later or when at operating temperature it acts like a Carburetor-ed auto that the throttle pump is bad in. In other words it wants to nose down, stumble, doesn't want to go, and lurches once moving. Shut it off and let it cool down and the damn thing runs like new again. Will repeat all day long. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer w/4.0L 4x4 4door 5 speed tranny. Really need my Jeep road worthy before the snow starts falling. Forever grateful for the correct answers.
#28
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Ok, had to order a new resistor, installed it and no change what-so-ever.
here's the problem, as I fix one thing, something else must go or it just changes the symptoms to look like something else. Lets just take what it's doing at the moment and see your input. Here is a list of new parts I've put on: Alternator, Distributor (complete), Coil and Cradle it sits in, Idle Air Controller. Used Parts that are off of a good running 4.0L and known to be working properly. Throttle position sensor, ECM/ECU. Current Problem: Pioneer starts right up cold and runs like a new one, 20 -25 minutes later or when at operating temperature it acts like a Carburetor-ed auto that the throttle pump is bad in. In other words it wants to nose down, stumble, doesn't want to go, and lurches once moving. Shut it off and let it cool down and the damn thing runs like new again. Will repeat all day long. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer w/4.0L 4x4 4door 5 speed tranny. Really need my Jeep road worthy before the snow starts falling. Forever grateful for the correct answers.
here's the problem, as I fix one thing, something else must go or it just changes the symptoms to look like something else. Lets just take what it's doing at the moment and see your input. Here is a list of new parts I've put on: Alternator, Distributor (complete), Coil and Cradle it sits in, Idle Air Controller. Used Parts that are off of a good running 4.0L and known to be working properly. Throttle position sensor, ECM/ECU. Current Problem: Pioneer starts right up cold and runs like a new one, 20 -25 minutes later or when at operating temperature it acts like a Carburetor-ed auto that the throttle pump is bad in. In other words it wants to nose down, stumble, doesn't want to go, and lurches once moving. Shut it off and let it cool down and the damn thing runs like new again. Will repeat all day long. 1988 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer w/4.0L 4x4 4door 5 speed tranny. Really need my Jeep road worthy before the snow starts falling. Forever grateful for the correct answers.
Tip 7.
#29
Actually I have not, but figured it had to be on my list of parts to change out, LOL. Will pick one up this week and install it next Saturday. The old gal is in pretty sound shape for an "88", no concernable rust and just a couple of dings on the rear doors from parking freaks who love swinging their doors open til they hit something. Don't think the prior owners ever took it off road as nothing on the underbelly shows abuse of any kind and the 4x works great. Thanks Cruiser for the suggestion, hope that's it.