AW4 pan removal
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
AW4 pan removal
This is not very technical, but I need help. I am trying to remove the transmission pan to replace the filter. I have the pan loose, but the filler tube will not come loose. The exhaust pipe is real close and I can't get much leverage on the pan. I tried moving the tube from the engine compartment but it doesn't seem to give at all. Thanks for any help.
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
This is not very technical, but I need help. I am trying to remove the transmission pan to replace the filter. I have the pan loose, but the filler tube will not come loose. The exhaust pipe is real close and I can't get much leverage on the pan. I tried moving the tube from the engine compartment but it doesn't seem to give at all. Thanks for any help.
It's a pain - just did mine. You will see there is a tube integrated in the pan, and then the dipstick tube fits into it with an oring seal. Because of how its designed, the tube in the pan acts as a funnel, and all the crap goes in there and causes it to rust to the dipstick tube. I took a propane torch and heated the joint until it came apart. Its a PITA, but all you can really do....
#3
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Year: 2000 @ 1994 givin away
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Either heat it up or use a small pipe cutter to cut it and than use a piece of rubber hose and two clamps to put it back together.
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#5
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Year: 2002
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
i just unbolted the tube from the bellhousing and i pulled the whole thing down, it took some moving around to get it down but it worked fine, and the bolt is easy to get to unless your jeeps lifted then you gotta stand on the tire in an awkward position lol
#6
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L6 Srt
brake cleaner and or wiggle the whole thing out.. I wiggle it out with stock hieght and no jack.. Just did it yesterday. then sprayed it with cleaner and popped right out.
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#8
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The only caution I have with this is it will distort the dipstick tube on the way out if you do this. You can of course bend it back, but as anyone whose ever bent a metal tube can attest, it's a lot more time consuming than it sounds. And I'll bet you'll still have to break out the blow torch even when the whole works is removed. Trust me, I've been there....
#9
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Just me but i would rather spend the ten seconds to heat it up. Then play a little wiggle action then cut the tube. I know it wont hurt any thing. Just preference I guess
#10
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Year: 2000
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Again, couple problems here. If you cut the joint, you can potentially cause the dipstick to read incorrectly if the "patch" is not assembled at the same height the original connection. It might also create a flexible joint that could make it difficult to insert the dipstick. The hose and clamps also pose a potential source of leakage (at least when filling.) Not knocking it, but I'd use this as a last resort....
#12
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
So, cut the tube, the man provided a picture, flare the lower end, just a little to prevent the dipstick from catching, use good quality hose, made for the heat, it's available, assemble it with the original ends butting, no fluid level misguiding, use stainless hose clamps for longevity. Mine never came apart, I did the undo the upper bracket to bring the whole length of the tube down, a real PITA. I like the cut the tube idea, just do it right.
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Year: 2002
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yeah i do agree its a pain to unbolt it and get it down, luckily i didnt bend the tube, but next time i gotta pull the pan off im cutting it
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Year: 1989 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0 L 6 Renix
Nice XJ Black ridin High and Accessorized on the CheroAdd23!
Yes I fought the whole tube down and back up the 1st time. The second time round I did a cut and hose job, almost same as in the djb383 photo. Sure makes it a lot easier for fluid and filter service ( I never did get the tube sections apart, they are bonded for life). Just rolled over 470000 on the odometer and the AW4 is still going strong (in over 2 dozen vehicles the most impressive trans I've had on any vehicle).
I highly recommend keeping all the fluids up and regular changes.
Yes I fought the whole tube down and back up the 1st time. The second time round I did a cut and hose job, almost same as in the djb383 photo. Sure makes it a lot easier for fluid and filter service ( I never did get the tube sections apart, they are bonded for life). Just rolled over 470000 on the odometer and the AW4 is still going strong (in over 2 dozen vehicles the most impressive trans I've had on any vehicle).
I highly recommend keeping all the fluids up and regular changes.
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