#1 Cylinder=no fire in the hole!
07-01-2012, 07:39 PM
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Kaloo Kalay!!!!
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
Last edited by 67 GMC; 07-01-2012 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Add picture
07-01-2012, 07:53 PM
#32
Senior Member
Thread Starter
TTT
Kaloo Kalay!!!!
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
07-01-2012, 07:54 PM
#33
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Kaloo Kalay!!!!
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
Problem solved. Running like a champ as smooth as silk. Remember it had great compression in all cylinders? Well, if a valve was always closed, you could get the same thing. Sure enough, took the valve cover off and the push rod had come out from under the rocker. Took it off, blew out the oil hole in the push road (thanks Haynes Manual), put lots of oil on it and put it back together. Fired it up and all cylinders firing as they should.
Lost two valve cover bolts too in the process, can't find them but that's a small penalty for a smooth running Jeep. Got a brand new CPS in a box for future use.
Thanks to all who helped. Thanks for Cruiser for those helpful grounding posts. I had a random no start problem that was fixed by cleaning up the dipstick ground.
Now, I've got to see why it like to over-rev while driving. Shifts fine and then the revs go real high like it's in 2nd gear. Will check out posts for that.
RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body. This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission TPS has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Adjust the TPS until you
have achieved this percentage. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles—FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES. Check the four-wire connector side of the TPS.
If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of the TPS. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 05-28-2012
07-02-2012, 08:28 AM
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for this
Just to be clear, when you say TRANS side, I'm checking the four wire connector in the engine bay,correct?. Also I'm not sure what the TCU looks like. Is it next to the ECU above the gas pedal? Is there anything to check inside the vehicle or is everthing I need to test in the engine bay.
Just to be clear, when you say TRANS side, I'm checking the four wire connector in the engine bay,correct?. Also I'm not sure what the TCU looks like. Is it next to the ECU above the gas pedal? Is there anything to check inside the vehicle or is everthing I need to test in the engine bay.
Check your TPS on the "trans" side on the square connector per the following write-up and see what you find.
RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body. This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission TPS has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Adjust the TPS until you
have achieved this percentage. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles—FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES. Check the four-wire connector side of the TPS.
If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of the TPS. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 05-28-2012
RENIX TPS ADJUSTMENT
Before attempting to adjust your TPS be sure the throttle body has been recently cleaned. It's especially important that the edges of the throttle butterfly are free of any carbon build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTE: With the Key OFF, and using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS. The letters are embossed on the connector itself. Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it parallels the valve cover and also over near the MAP sensor on the firewall. If you see more than 1 ohm of resistance, or fluctuation in your ohms reading, some modifications to the sensor ground harness will be necessary. The harness repair must be performed before proceeding. I can provide an instruction sheet for that if needed.
MANUAL TRANSMISSION:
RENIX manual transmission equipped XJs have a three-wire TPS mounted on the throttle body. This manual transmission vehicle TPS provides data input to the ECU. The manual transmission TPS has three wires in the connector and they're clearly embossed with the letters A, B, and C. Wire "A" is positive. Wire "B" is ground. Key ON, measure voltage from "A" positive to "B" ground by back-probing the connectors. Note the voltage reading--this is your REFERENCE voltage. Key ON, back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "C". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be seventeen percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example: 4.82 volts X .17=.82 volts. Adjust the TPS until you
have achieved this percentage. If you can't achieve the correct output voltage replace the TPS and start over.
AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION: RENIX automatic transmission equipped XJs have a TPS with two connectors. There is a flat three-wire connector, same as the manual transmission vehicles have, and it is tested the same as the manual transmission equipped vehicles—FOR ENGINE MANAGEMENT RELATED ISSUES.
However, the automatic TPS also has a square four-wire connector clearly embossed with the letters A,B,C, and D. It only uses three wires and provides information to the Transmission Control Module. Key ON, measure voltage between "A" positive and "D" ground. Note the voltage. This is your REFERENCE voltage. Back-probe the connector at wires "B" and "D". Measure the voltage. This is your OUTPUT voltage. Your OUTPUT voltage needs to be eighty-three percent of your REFERENCE voltage. For example 4.8 volts X .83=3.98 volts. Adjust the TPS until you have achieved this percentage. If you can't, replace the TPS and start over. So, if you have an automatic equipped XJ your TPS has two sides--one side feeds the ECU, and the other side feeds the TCU.
FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION RELATED ISSUES. Check the four-wire connector side of the TPS.
If you have ENGINE issues check the three-wire connector side of the TPS. For those with a MANUAL TRANSMISSION--the TPS for the manual transmission XJs is stupid expensive. You can substitute the automatic transmission TPS which is reasonably priced.
Revised 05-28-2012
Last edited by 67 GMC; 07-02-2012 at 08:28 AM. Reason: Spelling
07-02-2012, 08:47 AM
#35
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The "trans" side of TPS connector is all you need. The flat 3 wire connector is for the "engine" side and has one adjustment procedure and electrical values. The "trans" side is the square 4 wire connector on the TPS. Follow the procedure for that connector in the instructions. No need to go under the dash.
07-02-2012, 10:00 AM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The "trans" side of TPS connector is all you need. The flat 3 wire connector is for the "engine" side and has one adjustment procedure and electrical values. The "trans" side is the square 4 wire connector on the TPS. Follow the procedure for that connector in the instructions. No need to go under the dash.
I put new plugs, cap, rotor, wires, air filter, fuel filter, grounds etc so now that it's running, it can get some routine maintenance befor I check the brakes out. Front rotors seem good and pads seem ok. Have to look at the rear shoes / drums for nose diving issue. Like you said, could be the adjusters. I think the emergency brake cable may be seized on one side. I can pull from underneath and one side seems to have some slack while the other is tight.
Nice day to work on it though it's getting hot.
07-02-2012, 04:27 PM
#37
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Year: 1990
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Use a good filter like Wix or Napa Gold. No orange filters.
07-02-2012, 07:17 PM
#38
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So what could cause a push rod to come out like that? Was the rocker arm bridge loose? Aside from sloppy installation I just can't see how could that happen.
07-02-2012, 07:20 PM
#39
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A lifter sticking and not keeping tension on the pushrod, allowing the pushrod to become dicombooberated.
07-02-2012, 07:36 PM
#40
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
[QUOTE=. Just going to change the oil as it looked pretty black. I was going to run a GUNK ENGINE FLUSH before I saw the push rod issue. I didn't see much gunk around the rockers so I'm thinking it's not worth flushing at this point. Oil is pretty black though
google seafoam
google seafoam
07-02-2012, 08:55 PM
#41
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Had to use a Fram but will switch once the stores are back open. I had a Wix51626 which was supposed to be the right one for the 87 4.0 but the hole was too big. The filter that I took off was a Kralinator L292. I cross referenced that and all I could find was the Fram PH16. Went to Walmart (only thing open today-It's Canada Day) since I had it all drained. Bought the Fram ToughGuard TG16 (the most expensive Fram they had there). Had to buy a wrench too as these filters are too wide for my filter wrench. Put the Fram on handtight, put 5L of Pennzoil 10W30 and back in business. Front differential was almost dry so topped that up.
Good oil pressure but I will change to a NAPA gold once the local NAPA is open.
Pulled the battery cable and let the power drain out. Went for a drive and the trans shifted fine (no over rev). I'll have to troubleshoot that a bit more.
Good oil pressure but I will change to a NAPA gold once the local NAPA is open.
Pulled the battery cable and let the power drain out. Went for a drive and the trans shifted fine (no over rev). I'll have to troubleshoot that a bit more.
07-02-2012, 09:03 PM
#42
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That's good news.
07-28-2012, 01:25 PM
#43
Senior Member
Thread Starter
OK-Starting to look at this more closely as I'm trying to get this safetied and on the road now. Took it out and drove fine for a few miles. Got to a stop sign and then had to give it some gas to get through the intersection. Revs up real high and no shift from what I would say is first gear. I keep it from revving any higher and put the 4-way flashers on for 2 miles or so, then the RPM drops and it seems to be ok again. Doesn't seem to matter if the switch is in power or comfort.
I've got the choice to put money into it now to put it on the road. It's an '87 Laredo, 4x4, good body, with about 127,000 miles on it.
Needs rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, front ball joints, two seat belts and the steering shaft is worn out (picked one today for $30 so I'm ok there). This is all pretty routine stuff for an older vehicle but I'm worried that this shifting issue would sink it. Is it worth a new TPS to make sure? A buddy thought it could be an electrical problem with the solenoids on the transmission. Just wondered what others might do. I will start the Cruzers TPS procedure but any advice is more than welcome.
Thanks!
I've got the choice to put money into it now to put it on the road. It's an '87 Laredo, 4x4, good body, with about 127,000 miles on it.
Needs rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, front ball joints, two seat belts and the steering shaft is worn out (picked one today for $30 so I'm ok there). This is all pretty routine stuff for an older vehicle but I'm worried that this shifting issue would sink it. Is it worth a new TPS to make sure? A buddy thought it could be an electrical problem with the solenoids on the transmission. Just wondered what others might do. I will start the Cruzers TPS procedure but any advice is more than welcome.
Thanks!
07-28-2012, 03:17 PM
#44
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Have you checked the "trans" side of the TPS yet?
07-29-2012, 06:35 AM
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No-not yet. I cleaned out the throttle body with carb cleaner and a rag to get all the soot off the parts. It wouldn't shift out of first immediatley after but after a few minutes of driving, it was fine. Took it out later on in the afternoon and it was fine again. I'll drive it today a little longer but could a dirty throttle body make a difference? I read in your instructions on the TPS test to make sure the butterfly is really clean. It is now.
I'll probe the TPS connectors today and report back.
I'll probe the TPS connectors today and report back.