1999 xj 4.0 p0505 p0500 searched countless forums.
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Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
Yeah don't mess with that throttle stop then. I thought it had a flat head on the screw. Maybe it does on the bottom. I can't remember.
I wonder if that picture of the speed sensor is the input or output speed sensor? I really can't tell what's going on here, but it might be one of those 2.
If that's the case, how does it shift?
I wonder if that picture of the speed sensor is the input or output speed sensor? I really can't tell what's going on here, but it might be one of those 2.
If that's the case, how does it shift?
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 188
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From: Indeoendence, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Shifting has been mostly fine a little rough on some downshifts but not all the time. Replacing both the speed sensors once they come in tomorrow just to rule them out worst case scenrio if it doesnt fix it then hey i have a couple of extra sensors. Fixed the one wire and traced the rest of the wires back as far as i could reach and dont see/feel any other problem areas. Ill update tomorrow afternoon and go from there. If its not those and not the wiring then that leaves grounds and pcm. Im pretty certain i already cleaned all the grounds but maybe i missed one, im really not sure. I started with the negative at the battery cleaned that, followed by the ground from the battery to the fender wall. Moved to the ground on the passenger side of the block next to the dipstick. Then the ground on the back of the block driver side that connects to the fire wall cleaned both sides of that. Am i missing any?
Last edited by Tankpb; Mar 18, 2021 at 01:56 AM.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 188
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From: Indeoendence, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Changed the sensors now my speedo is going bat **** crazy flying all over the place from 20 to 10 then all the way well past 100. Didnt know jeeps could warp speed in less than 2 seconds lmao. Back under i go to see what i messed up.
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 188
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From: Indeoendence, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Received faulty speedometer sensor that goes on the tcase swapped it for the old one and the speedo is fine again. The speed sensor towards the front driver side of the transmission was definitely bad though and the new one is working properly. P0500 code has not shown back up at all which is good one down. Now to focus on the P0505 Idle air Control Valve code. Im going to try calibrating again now that the speed sensor code is taken care of again. Time to go for a drive at 40+ for a bit and see if this thing smoothes out. 🤞🤞
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Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 188
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From: Indeoendence, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
No change it still wont calibrate itself and just keeps popping the code. When im driving it will try and bring the idle down for a second and then picks it back up to 1800. Im stumped
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Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 6,588
Likes: 495
From: Chico, CA
Year: 1986
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.3L with headers and full 3" exhaust system
Is the orifice for the idle air control clean? If it is dirty or has a burr it will allow too much air past it and make a high idle
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
Try the spray test again. I'm almost certain you have a vacuum leak somewhere. I've also seen a bad vacuum booster cause a massive vacuum leak, so try pulling the vacuum line to the brake booster and plug it off temporarily to see if it holds an idle. IAC relearn isn't going to help if it holds 1800 when unplugged.
Senior Member




Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 923
Likes: 250
From: North Augusta, SC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L
So it's obvious that you have 2 separate issues here. The speed sensor code is probably an intermittent wiring issue. I'd put that one on the back burner for right now until you get the high idle resolved.
The speed sensor you're dealing with is the transmission input speed sensor. It gives data to the transmission control module. The TCM then uses the input and output speed sensors, as well as throttle position, to figure out engine load, and thus shifts the transmission accordingly. After you get the high idle problem resolved, use a multimeter to check continuity of the ISS wires from the connector to the TCM. The TCM is located right by the gas pedal under the dash. I'll help you figure out which wires to test. In a nutshell, you'll connect to both ends and shake the wiring harness around until you see that there's a high resistance on the meter. You either have a broken wire or a bad connector. The only other connector I can think of right off the top of my head is the big one by the transmission dipstick tube. Again, we'll get to that once the high idle is solved.
Now, have you given the spray test another go? Really get in there and check around the flanges, around the throttle body, and around any vacuum line. When you find the leak, the idle speed will change. You'll hear it.
The speed sensor you're dealing with is the transmission input speed sensor. It gives data to the transmission control module. The TCM then uses the input and output speed sensors, as well as throttle position, to figure out engine load, and thus shifts the transmission accordingly. After you get the high idle problem resolved, use a multimeter to check continuity of the ISS wires from the connector to the TCM. The TCM is located right by the gas pedal under the dash. I'll help you figure out which wires to test. In a nutshell, you'll connect to both ends and shake the wiring harness around until you see that there's a high resistance on the meter. You either have a broken wire or a bad connector. The only other connector I can think of right off the top of my head is the big one by the transmission dipstick tube. Again, we'll get to that once the high idle is solved.
Now, have you given the spray test another go? Really get in there and check around the flanges, around the throttle body, and around any vacuum line. When you find the leak, the idle speed will change. You'll hear it.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
From: Indeoendence, OR
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
So it's obvious that you have 2 separate issues here. The speed sensor code is probably an intermittent wiring issue. I'd put that one on the back burner for right now until you get the high idle resolved.
The speed sensor you're dealing with is the transmission input speed sensor. It gives data to the transmission control module. The TCM then uses the input and output speed sensors, as well as throttle position, to figure out engine load, and thus shifts the transmission accordingly. After you get the high idle problem resolved, use a multimeter to check continuity of the ISS wires from the connector to the TCM. The TCM is located right by the gas pedal under the dash. I'll help you figure out which wires to test. In a nutshell, you'll connect to both ends and shake the wiring harness around until you see that there's a high resistance on the meter. You either have a broken wire or a bad connector. The only other connector I can think of right off the top of my head is the big one by the transmission dipstick tube. Again, we'll get to that once the high idle is solved.
Now, have you given the spray test another go? Really get in there and check around the flanges, around the throttle body, and around any vacuum line. When you find the leak, the idle speed will change. You'll hear it.
The speed sensor you're dealing with is the transmission input speed sensor. It gives data to the transmission control module. The TCM then uses the input and output speed sensors, as well as throttle position, to figure out engine load, and thus shifts the transmission accordingly. After you get the high idle problem resolved, use a multimeter to check continuity of the ISS wires from the connector to the TCM. The TCM is located right by the gas pedal under the dash. I'll help you figure out which wires to test. In a nutshell, you'll connect to both ends and shake the wiring harness around until you see that there's a high resistance on the meter. You either have a broken wire or a bad connector. The only other connector I can think of right off the top of my head is the big one by the transmission dipstick tube. Again, we'll get to that once the high idle is solved.
Now, have you given the spray test another go? Really get in there and check around the flanges, around the throttle body, and around any vacuum line. When you find the leak, the idle speed will change. You'll hear it.
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