Before installing my relocation bracket I had this problem but I thought the shackle relocation would fix it, but nope. The leaf springs are a year old, it's a RE 3.5 leaf pack so I highly doubt this is the issue. It drives fine but looks weird so any ideas is appreciated. The body is straight too and both rear wheels have the same gap inside the well. Leaf springs were installed in the right direction and the center pins are correctly set in the perches.

 

Yes it is normal if a lift is installed that lowers the rear shackle mount (uses longer shackles or relocation brackets).

The front end of the leaf spring is fixed where it bolts to the frame. The rear end of the leaf spring moves up & back as it compresses, and down and forward as it droops.

When a lift kit is installed, the longer shackle that the kit uses lowers the rear of the leaf spring, which raises the body. But, since the spring is a fixed length, it also moves the axle closer to the front of the wheel well.

The relocation brackets will do the same thing to a degree, because even tho they do change the shackle angle, they also lift the vehicle, as the front end of the spring is still fixed, but the rear end is lowered.


The front axle will also move towards the rear of the front wheel well with lift, unless you get longer control arms or use drop brackets, because as you raise the body, the fixed length control arm rotates down at the axle end, and as it does so, it pulls the axle back to the wheel well some.


The rear is often more noticeable tho.

 

I was thinking about the front and control arms and figured maybe something in the rear could make a difference, shims or something. Thanks for the detailed answer, at least now I know I have nothing to worry about, it only looks funky

 

Aftermarket spring perches have two additional holes in them for the center pins. One hole 1" forward of center, one hole 1" aft of center. I have my XJ lifted 5" w/ longer shackles, so my tire is also shifted forward in the wheel well. I installed an 8.8 w/ IRO spring perches (they have the extra holes). I have been looking for a longer driveshaft (double cardon) so I can shift the axle back that 1".

There are other options to shift the axle back, but I'm not too familiar with them. Hit up Google.

 

i'm getting ready to swap another 8.25 i cleaned and added disc brakes, so might as well look into this now. thanks!

 

If you put on aftermarket perches, you can fix it. using the extra center pinholes.

The front will need drop brackets tho.

 

yeah my only concern is my welding skills, i'll have to work on that before i attempt this. or magically find a new friend that can do it for a few beers.

and i have the same issue in the front, but planning to go long arm eventually so i'm not too concerned about it.

i looked at the various kits, ruff stuff stands out but it's will be pricey to get this shipped over here.

so from what i understand this is what i need :

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/.../25J-UPLT.html
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...25-PERCH3.html

 

You don't really need both of these....

If you go with the bottom item, you will have to weld, you would use the rear most hole in the perch on the axle, and you could use the stock top plate center hole.



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i'm not sure i understand, isn't it supposed to look like this? (pic below)

because if i use their spring perch but keep my stock u bolt plate, the hole for the center pin won't line up, no? in this example i think the guy drilled a hole on the stock perches, but i'm not sure that's a good idea... and i need the wheels like 1.5-2 inches further back, so there wouldn't be enough space to drill a hole anyway.

 

The center pin lines everything up & locks it in place...the u-bolts just clamp it together.

You will only be able to move it 1"....any more will require the offset mounts ruff stuff sells, which don't fit your rear axle.

You may have to slot the u-bolt holes in your top plate some if you use the stock plate again, but chances are it's already bent, so new would be better.

You may have different lengths of thread above the nuts on the u-bolts, as they will be at a slight angle.

If you want to avoid the angle on the u-bolts, you'll have to use both, and weld the perches on (I thought you didn't want to weld).



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alright thanks, it's much appreciated. i'll continue looking into that.

 

If you want to bring it down to VA I'll burn the perches in for you. It aint even an hour welding. Bit of a drive though.

 

i'm always looking for a good reason to take a road trip haha