It's the axle being fairly far back. I cleared 35s turning with a 4.5" lift and no trimming at all. I trimmed a touch out of the liners to clear it when a little off camber.
Best picture I have probably.

 

And you are on short-arms as well? Can I just adjust the control arms to be "longer" to put the front axle back to center?
The axle does look like it is sitting further back (and your lift is a bit higher than mine, which has 40K+ miles on it at least)

I'm still a n00b when it comes to suspension

Edit:
I did spot the long-arms. I unfortunately don't really have time to get another alignment and I can't spare my XJ to drop it off at one of the 4x4 fab shops to have them do it. Critical road trip coming up, so I think angle grinder it is?

I am about 1/2" from clearing while turning the wheels
Long arms would be nice but I would much rather spend the $ elsewhere (bumpers or a front locker). Might compromise with drop brackets while I save up for that

 

Sounds like some aftermarket flares (most likely bump stops too) will be your answer. Some flats would sure top that thing off. Jealous everytime I see a green xj....

 

So, I installed a Weber38 on my 2.8 today. Added an in-line fuel filter before the pressure regulator and went to start it up. It screamed up to almost 7k rpm so immediately cut the engine and went around front to find the throttle cable linkage is binding so that it is unable to release completely. Just need to grind it out a little bit so it has more room....anyway, the real question:




I've got zero pressure behind my gas pedal!!!! Nothing. I've capped most of all the vacuum lines and no luck yet. Anyone know what's happening? Any pointers on tuning this bad boy?

 

Yeah, definitely need to do some flares but I am cheap and would rather put the $ towards a front locker or bumper for now.

Going to chop some more fender tomorrow, might do the rears too

 

Remember if you cut too much and then try to put flares on. Might not work out so hot. The problem is a poor suspension set up. Too short of short arms. Even when I was running short arms my wheels were centered in the wheel wells.

 

Centered at ride height, or centered when the suspension was compressed? There's a difference

 

They were fairly centered at ride height. I could clear tires turning.

 

It was never a problem with 33's but yeah, 2 extra inches of tire really accentuated how far back it is sitting

Yeah, I think a set of RC control arm drops are going to be the next mod, then maybe a set of front and mid stiffeners because I really need those (and rock sliders after that). I think I am just going to rock no-fenders, cheaper than buying a set of flares (or maybe one day I will get some Hooligan fenders)

I will finally have the space for a smaller welder, need to see what amp breaker my parents have on their 220v line in their laundry room

 

problem solved with a couple of fishing weights. Clamped em on the line and the basket seems to accept them okay. Wow that weber carb makes hills a breeze in my lil old 2.8!

 

Chopped the fenders today. Gained just enough clearance to work for now. My 4.5" lift is either sagging or not really 4.5", lol

Before, jusst over 1/2" of clearance (to the closest spot which is that bottom lip where the fender bolts to the body)



And after, over 2.5" of clearance, as much as I had with my 33's (trimmed about 2")



The fender still feels very securely mounted in that spot. I am going to trim the fenders to match when I have some time (and the rears especially, rubs hard if I try and flex it out).
Went for a test ride and hit some big potholes, all good for now.

 

Went to the Pick A Part this morning to pull a tan drivers side A-Pillar that I had broke in half (don't ask) when removing the headliner to redo it. Was pretty lucky to find a tan interior at the yard, most are grey.

 

Could you show a picture of the back of that? In my '00, I believe it to be a '98 and up thing, there are clips on the back that secure that piece. They get brittle and break. Broke one when I did my headliner. Always wondered it I could counter sink a self tapping screw and secure it that way instead. I figure there is a tube behind it that fits into a hole in the metal framework but never have seen one up close and personal so am not sure.

 

I have been running my Hobart Handler 185 off of my dryer outlet for years. It is only a 30 amp breaker. I have never tripped the breaker with the MIG welder. I tripped it once with the stick welder when I had it cranked up welding some thick steel.

 

Grab the window crank handle for me