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a while back when my dad recovered his VW seats he used a heat gun turned down and moving quickly to tighten up the leather and make the covers fit better. They looked perfect! You may already know this, just figured I would pass the knowledge along.
I was thinking that the summer heat would help with that. I would make some slight adjustments as time went on. Taking apart the front passenger seat definitely helped with getting a better fit initially. Now just have to figure out how I am going to rehab the front driver's seat before the seat cover gets installed.
Post-winter decontamination. Spent about 6 or 7 hours on a top to bottom clean. Finished it off with an exterior wash and wax with Collinite 845.
Was curious about your under the hood light. Is the light removable, attached to a retractable cord, so you can inspect the engine compartment? If so what is that from?
Was curious about your under the hood light. Is the light removable, attached to a retractable cord, so you can inspect the engine compartment? If so what is that from?
Yes, removable and attached to a reel. 80s-90s GM full size pickups had them. Should be able to find them aplenty at your local junk yard.
Have to keep my eye out for this. Seems like a neat idea. Thanks.
And there's enough wire in that reel to go all the way around the back of the Jeep.
I had an '88 Sierra long bed single cab and that light would go all the way back to the back, and touch the tail light on the opposite side that I took the light down.
And there's enough wire in that reel to go all the way around the back of the Jeep.
I had an '88 Sierra long bed single cab and that light would go all the way back to the back, and touch the tail light on the opposite side that I took the light down.
Seems like even a better idea then I imagined. If I do this I can ditch my Peak light. Cost $10 with a $10 rebate at the time so of course I had to get it.
Yes, removable and attached to a reel. 80s-90s GM full size pickups had them. Should be able to find them aplenty at your local junk yard.
Yup, I think I got it off an 80's Chevy 2500 from the JunkYard. You can find them off eBay as well.
Really cool bit, the cable is about 25ft long, I could probably wrap it around the Jeep once, or run it all the way to a trailer. I bought an LED light for it but for whatever reason it doesn't want to light up - I think I either have the wiring backwards, or the LED bulb isnt making contact in the socket properly. Haven't had time to mess with it, the stock incandescent bulb is pretty bright at night-time I just want to cut down on power consumption.
I used a cheap straight bracket from Ace hardware, and re-used the factory mounting bolt with some blue loctite to keep it from rattling loose. I also replaced the magnet, after over 20 years the factory one didn't have alot of hold. Total cost was probably $10 or so, but it has a manual switch instead of the stock "tilt" switch (not a big deal for me, its easy enough to flip the switch if I need the light)
Swapped out my LCAs for the set I scored from SatiricalHen. Not a huge job normally, but given I've been almost completely bed-ridden for over a week, pretty proud!
Holy hell what a difference in ride quality. The extra length centered the axle, and the angle reduction of the arms makes for MUCH less jarring going over bumps and potholes.
Free hanging with no tires on. Before;
After
This will help a lot with articulation, you can see where I was maxxing the travel on the other arms.
For anyone who's curious, center to center OE arms measure 15-3/4" and RC 3" lift arms measure 16-1/8". Doesn't sound like much, but it makes a big difference.
Lol, and I took some 409 to the interior plastics, was getting pretty grungy.
Ripped the Claytons truss/link bridge off while wheeling Carnage Canyon , So after some trail welding and a trip back home I cut off the failed truss while still on trailer and jacked up the axle to pre load it welded the Artec together then made the link bridge mounts sitting on top welded it to the truss and then the slow process of welding it to the housing without warpage then 4 passes were made round the tubes for tube spin prevention . I decided to tie the truss to the diff cover share the load .The bridge is made of 1.5 1/4 wall tube with 1/2 thick a500 plate and a 1 inch grade 8 bolt in double shear . Started a backbone after the pics and bent up a piece of 3/8plate to make tie from pinion guard to link bridge , but did not finish it should be done next weekend.
The trusd failed due to poor welds on the driver side not so much the truss ...lol...and those were 100hr welds by a 4x4 shop ...I think far less beef was needed to fix it ...But a "little" overkill is better than a woulda coulda shoulda when broke in a v-notch on trail .
And there's enough wire in that reel to go all the way around the back of the Jeep.
