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Just take the rest of the bug deflector off. And don't put your trust in that torque wrench! My experience with them is that they are good for a real short while and then the calibration goes away real quick.
Picked up license plates this morning! Now I've got to order some front suspension stuff. I pretty much have to rebuild the whole front suspension, but I want to minimize downtime, and spread out the costs a bit.
Front Suspension Step 1:
Ball Joints
Hubs
Sway Bar Bushings
I know I have to disconnect the tie-rods to do the ball joints, so maybe I should also upgrade all the stuff connected to the tie rods. Maybe inspect the U-joints and replace those if necessary.
Plus, turn signals would be nice. It's still a bit chilly to be dropping my driver window to signal each time (though I do it anyways.)
Just take the rest of the bug deflector off. And don't put your trust in that torque wrench! My experience with them is that they are good for a real short while and then the calibration goes away real quick.
Gotta reset 'em to zero when you're done using 'em. Helps keep that from happening.
Gotta reset 'em to zero when you're done using 'em. Helps keep that from happening.
Yeah I know...our boss got us 3 of them for the shop...all of em lasted a month or two....he got us some better ones and all good so far...I have no issues with harbor freight, but for precision type stuff it's a big avoid.
Yeah I know...our boss got us 3 of them for the shop...all of em lasted a month or two....he got us some better ones and all good so far...I have no issues with harbor freight, but for precision type stuff it's a big avoid.
Yeah.... I mean there's a fine line with Harbor Freight stuff... and that line is "amount of use"... MOST HF stuff won't hold up to the amount of use a professional will give it. 99% of what they sell, if I was a professional mechanic, or even using it more than the average DIYer, I'd spend more money to get a better quality tool. Especially with things like precision instruments.
Here's a bit of XJ mud boggin I caught back in August at the 4WD Jamboree in Columbiana, OH. (EDIT:I have no connection to 4WD Hardware. I went to the show. I do not work there.)
I had never been to an off-road/4x4 type show. It was awesome.
Lemme find the best way to post this video.
Now I need to figure out which hubs to buy. In 1999 there were two different hub assemblies available, based on whether you had a cast rotor, or a composite one.
It's not as simple as looking at the rotor and going "oh, that's cast - I'm good." No, someone may have put a cast rotor in place of the composite one, but they had to machine it to fit - this was a common thing to do at brake shops. Wrong rotor, who cares? Machine that sucker and stick it on there!
My point is, take off the wheel, caliper and rotor, then you can measure flange on the center of the hub. The "composite rotor" hub will have a lip around 1/2" tall, where the "cast rotor" hub will have a substantially larger lip, like 3/4"-1"
Helpful Image (Composite on the left, Cast on the right)
Helpful Image 2 (Composite on the left, Cast on the right)
Helpful Image 3 (Composite on the left, Cast on the right)
ROTOR IMAGES:
Cast Rotor Crown Automotive Part 5016434AA (Notice: Thick mounting flange, squared edge on stud holes)
Composite Rotor Crown Automotive Part 52005000 (Notice: Thin, stamped mounting flange and smooth edge, tapered stud holes)
MY Rotor/Hub - for comparison (Note: The lip sticking past the rotor is very small - maybe these are composite-rotor hubs. I'll have to disassemble and measure to know.)
(Note 2: My rotors have the tapered wheel stud holes. These may be composite rotors. I'll know when I disassemble the front end.)
(Note 3: The cotter pin and wheel studs look very new to me. Perhaps these hubs have already been replaced.)
Now I need to figure out which hubs to buy. In 1999 there were two different hub assemblies available, based on whether you had a cast rotor, or a weird composite one.
Now, it's not as simple as looking at the rotor and going "oh, that's cast - I'm good." No, someone may have put a cast rotor in place of the composite one, but they had to machine it to fit.
My point is, take off the wheel, caliper and rotor, then you can measure flange on the center of the hub. The "composite rotor" hub will have a lip around 1/2" tall, where the "cast rotor" hub will have a substantially larger lip, like 3/4"-1"
Helpful Image (Composite on the left, Cast of the right)
