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Sorry no offense intended mentioning NASCAR. Worked on Asphalt and Dirt track cars a number of years and still like the sound of racing engines. I agree it ain't the same. Happy Jeepin'
TexasTaz38 Eagle Scout "1975"
1986 xj 2 door, Monster 2.5 liter, 4 speed
a work in progress
Yea sorry , I had just got done "discussing" NASCARs "improvements" with someone who thinks they should all run the exact same car and is thrilled with the stage racing thing. I prefer dirt and short track where you build your car and run the **** out of it til it breaks!
Bastard Pack install update. I couldn't decide between the s-10 or dakota spring pack to build the bastard pack with. Based on appearance and age of the vehicles, I ended up using the dakota spring pack. The dakota pack just looked healthier....they were. Built the packs and got them back under the xj and measured the new lift. I gained about 4 1/4". That's at least an inch more than I wanted. I think the dakota pack may have had a overload helper spring added to the bottom of the pack so I'm going to take the bastard packs back out and remove what appears to be the overload spring. I will update you all when I get that done. Might not be a one afternoon job. lol. And, it is NASCAR day. Happy Jeepin'
Glad to hear your progress.
Out of respect, I removed my hat at the NASCAR reference.
Yea sorry , I had just got done "discussing" NASCARs "improvements" with someone who thinks they should all run the exact same car and is thrilled with the stage racing thing. I prefer dirt and short track where you build your car and run the **** out of it til it breaks!
Quick end to the discussion of all should run the same car. Where's IROC? Enuff said. lol
Today, back under the xj, put the spring retainers around the spring packs. Didn't know if I was going to have to change the pack again so I left them off while they were on the bench. Looked around under the back half of the xj.
Going to replace the rubber hose to the fuel filter, it's cracked pretty bad. Looks like a longer break line will be required. The line is almost tight sitting on level ground. Looks like the rear seal is seeping on the transfer case so...going to see about replacing it.
Got 10 new wheel studs for the rear axle. A couple were trashed when I got it. Might as well do all 10 to be safe.
Made my first cuts... came out pretty well I think
Looks good man.... now to get rid of those CRAP GY Wrangler Radials (they're terrible).
Originally Posted by 95Cherokee
If I lived in a rural area where it was pitch dark I could probably tell a difference
Not sure why you're not seeing a difference. I don't live in a rural area, I live in the 'burbs and drive through the city to work in the morning where it's lit up and I can definitely tell a difference. People tell me all the time they can't believe I'm still running sealed beam headlights because of how bright they are....
Couple pics for comparison. This was my friend's Jeep that motivated me to do the harness swap. My Jeep is on the right in the picture. Still running the OEM sealed beams on the factory harness. His is running a homebrew harness with ceramic fittings. He's got 'em aimed a little too high, but it's still enough to get the idea.
[quote=Basslicks]Looks good man.... now to get rid of those CRAP GY Wrangler Radials
Yep I know. But when I picked it up a couple months ago it was wearin rags and I knew I needed something just long enough to get the jeep sorted out and I decided on height and tire size.
I put the original tensioner pulley back on (slightly larger OD than the Dayco one I got to replace it), used a washer to space it out 2-3mm and just kept playing with tension till it would stop squealing (settled on closer to 140lbs using the Krikit II gauge)
The belt is about 2-3mm out of alignment between the AC pulley and the waterpump pulley. The water pump pulley is slightly raised at the rear edge due to where the belt originally rode, which is causing the chirp.
After like an hour of staring at it, I think the only reasoning I can come up with is because the PS pump (on the other-side of the waterpump pulley), is still too far forward, even though I bottomed out the installer tool and the shaft is flush with the flange on the pulley?
Option 1 is going to be to try and make a "tool" to press the PS pulley on so it is no longer just flush with the shank, but actually recessed another 2mm
Option 2 is going to be either resurface my water pump pulley, or get a new one with zero wear on it and see if it helps ($10)
Argh
Last edited by investinwaffles; Mar 13, 2017 at 10:23 PM.
Did a valve cover gasket today thinking maybe I would get lucky and that's where my leak would be from. Nope. Pulled it off and took a little video and sure enough, bone dry on the back side of the motor. So I painted up the valve cover and put it back on. The old gasket looked pretty much brand new. Bummer.
so my engine has a jasper short block in it with about 30,000 miles on it. What's the chance you guys think it's a rear main leaking? Could it possibly just be the pan gasket? There are no signs of leaks on the pan anywhere except for the rear where all the oil is gunked up.
after seeing how new the valve cover gasket was, im having a hard time thinking a 30,000 mile old rear main would be leaking like this. But I could totally be wrong.
Also last weekend did HDOR shackle boxes, IRO shackles, new Rusty's 3.5" springs, dirtbound top plates and those zinc u bolts that's IRO sells. It took me 2 full days of work to get it done. But it's done. Unfortunately the IRO shackles interfere with the shackle boxes when they are the best angle. So I ordered some core 4x4 tubular adjustable shackles which I think will help a ton with clearance.
managed to FUBAR the lower rear passenger shock mount. It's turning into a nightmare to fix. Tried drilling and tapping it today and broke the tap off inside the hole...
Also last weekend did HDOR shackle boxes, IRO shackles, new Rusty's 3.5" springs, dirtbound top plates and those zinc u bolts that's IRO sells. It took me 2 full days of work to get it done. But it's done. Unfortunately the IRO shackles interfere with the shackle boxes when they are the best angle. So I ordered some core 4x4 tubular adjustable shackles which I think will help a ton with clearance.
managed to FUBAR the lower rear passenger shock mount. It's turning into a nightmare to fix. Tried drilling and tapping it today and broke the tap off inside the hole...
What total lift did this setup get you? Its exactly what I think mine needs but unsure what the relocation/shackle combo does.
Moved my personalized plates to the new pickup, and got generic plates for the Jeep. Got the interior mostly cleaned out. Dug the summer tires out of the tire shed and put them in the back for now. Got most of my Yakima rack removed. Still have to take the landing pads off, and put the original crossbars back on.
I agree it ain't the same. Happy Jeepin'
, I had just got done "discussing" NASCARs "improvements" with someone who thinks they should all run the exact same car and is thrilled with the stage racing thing. I prefer dirt and short track where you build your car and run the **** out of it til it breaks!
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