I scrolled up to see what you were talking about, saw it... then just proceeded to laugh.

Good catch

 

I think he found the secret to super flex lol..

That's it!.....I'm doing mine. Hmmm,, I wonder if it has to be red, or can I use blue? ohhhhh!!! lime green like monster drinks,

 

lol... buncha haters!

 

Checked under the Jeep (briefly) for signs of radiator fluid. Doesn't appear to be leaking, but of course daylight will be a more accurate tell.

The wife's car gave me a scare yesterday though. Something was dripping from the nose of the car when I came out of the building for lunch. Was a clear yet "oily" consistency. The HOAT antifreeze that is used is a really like "gold" color so it's kinda hard to tell when some leaks out onto the ground if it's coolant or something else. It's also hard to see in the reservoir to check the level too... so I started it up to leave for lunch, the car came up to temp and stayed there. Heat worked like normal as well.

Power steering worked fine with no whining from the pump, brakes worked fine, AC worked fine (thought maybe it was PAG oil leaking from the condensor).

I still have no clue what it was... but I'm keeping an eye on all the (2) gauges until I know for sure.

 

My buddy Travis comes through again!



Dropped it off at my car this morning. Hopefully I can get it back up and running tonight... in other words, I hope the radiator isn't leaking.

 

Now you have to change the whole color scheme..

Here,,, I'll get you started..lol












Hope all works out bud,, and you get it fixed.

 

LMAO!!!! No, I'm strippin' the paint before it goes on haha

Thanks man. Fingers crossed.

 

Whew... well wednesday was an ordeal. Got home from the junkyard with some parts for the Jeep and the M. Found an aux trans cooler in the junkyard *SCORE!* Needed a new power steering pump bracket 'cause the bolt hole at the top of mine was stripped and the piece that the tensioner bolt goes into was broken. Also picked up a prop valve from a ZJ. The wiring harness is for the tail lights on the M.


Click for full res

Also when I got home, there was a box from Rock Auto waiting on my doorstep... YAAAAAY NEW PARTS!!!

Front brakes, new NTK o2 sensor, an exhaust hanger for the XJ. Exhaust clamps and pipe are for the M.

After I got done ogling at my part scores, I got to work on replacing my AC and fan bracket with the freshly painted one. I just couldn't do that lime green under the hood. Not with red already under there... did that once with the brakes on the dakota. Already had red calipers and bought EBC greenstuff pads... yeah. Red n green is alright for christmas... not so much on your vehicle.


Click for full res

Anyway, I bolted the new bracket up, grabbed my idler pulley and all of a sudden noticed something missing. Yup, the new bracket is from a '98. I didn't even think about the change in the drive belt setup in '96. No spot for the idler pulley. Crap... crap crap crap! SO I have an old-style bracket with the spot for the pulley and a hub flange that was damaged due to removing it and pressing it on to the new hub, a new bracket in near-perfect condition that I DON'T want to eff up by removing it and pressing it on to another hub, and an old-style PS bracket/tensioner combo... and the junkyard is now closed. F***!

So I did some checking with part numbers, belt routing, and just eyeball detective work and determined I should be able to make the new-style belt routing work on the old-style setup without either idler pulley. Sketchy, but temporary. Old setup uses a 97.5" belt, new setup uses a 95" belt. It took me 3 times of going back and forth to the auto parts store (plus 1 more because I discovered a crack in my thermostat housing) but I finally was able to get it to work with a 91.5" belt. The run going from the crank pulley to the power steering pump is a little long, but the tension is good enough to keep it from flapping around excessively.


Click for full res

So after all the hullabaloo on Wednesday, I decided I needed more of a win on Thursday. My new 8mm Accel plug wires came in and I installed them. Kept all the wires away from ANYTHING metal. Motor runs like buttah now.

Also went ahead and welded the y-pipe to the exhaust pipe for my wife's car. The front resonator (that's right, there's one in the front AND the back) rusted out and blew a hole in the side of the case. So I'm ditching it and throwing in this y-pipe. Warning: crappy welds ahead...


Click for full res

I was a little proud of myself though. I blew threw the pipe with the torch at one point, but was able to work the torch and fill the gap back up. Just looks like I got a little wild with the weld bead

 

that happened to me a lot when i was fabbing the exhaust for the 5.3, but i had the heat set too high( it was right for gas and solid wire tho, which is why i never checked it since i thought it was right lol)

 

Yeah this one was totally my fault. Can't blame it on the welder at all. There's only 2 heat settings, low and high, I had it on low, but I just happened to linger at that one spot too long. So I let it cool for a second, uttered a few cuss words and insulted my own intelligence, then started a puddle back up and real quick weaved it back and forth over the hole. I figured it would either work, or my already ruined piece would be even more ruined... thankfully it was the prior

 

I clicked on the "click for full res" button on that photo.. I knew I shouldn't have.

I kid i kid, welds look fine man, its exhaust, as long as its sealed up then job well done. You aren't fabbing up a turbo manifold on a show car.

 

HAHA! Yeah, that's what I say. Especially since that one's going under the car, no one will ever really see it anyway. Under the Jeep is a little different story, but yeah... the cheapy welder actually does pretty good for exhaust.

 

Exhaust can be tough to weld, I've turned perfectly good exhaust into swiss cheese plenty of times over the years.

 

I can definitely see how haha.

 

Here's the bs you wanted