What did you do to your Cherokee today?
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 4,104
Likes: 2
From: San Antonio, TX
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
lol when i had one of my coopers patched i told the guy 25psi, and he told me that was way to low, i told him based on my tests that 25 was the proper pressure for the oversize tire and light weight xj. he insisted i was wrong even tho i knew very well that i wasnt. and then proceeded to air it up to 35. i lowered it right in front of him and drove off 
also got my monstashades color chip samples today, thinking of monstalining the whole exterior since ive got some clear peeling

also got my monstashades color chip samples today, thinking of monstalining the whole exterior since ive got some clear peeling
Last edited by cleenrob; Oct 28, 2016 at 10:07 PM.
bought today and read about how to .at 1am i decided to see if i could get the liner out and then be ready tomorrow to tackle the pumps. well i couldnt stop once the hard part was done. one connector was clean so i used it but cut the wires on the other and soldered them to the adapter that came with them.
fun to flip the switches and actually have them squirt right now!!
i also bought the blower relay and the turn signal blinker but now they are working ok?? i guess ill just put them in and not take chances.
got all stuff at autozone, looks ok.
fun to flip the switches and actually have them squirt right now!!
i also bought the blower relay and the turn signal blinker but now they are working ok?? i guess ill just put them in and not take chances.
got all stuff at autozone, looks ok.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Like Basslicks said, they can't know the perfect PSI unless you want to pay a bunch of labor charge for them rolling the vehicle back and forth while they make adjustments.
But on the flip side, there's a lot of incompetent people at tire shops. My 37s were aired up to 45psi after I had them mounted and balanced
But on the flip side, there's a lot of incompetent people at tire shops. My 37s were aired up to 45psi after I had them mounted and balanced

pulled it out and showed it to me and says, "Hey man, this thing is really dirty. It should be white, ya know? You need to replace it really bad."
I had a mild panic attack at the condition of my truck in the incompetent hands of the "technicians" there, yelled at him to put it back and get his hands off my truck, barked at the manager for incompetence, then went home and changed the oil again myself because I couldn't trust it was done right in the first place.
From then on, any vehicle I've ever had, if I can do it myself, I do it. If I can't, I look it up or try my best to figure it out. If I still can't, I take it to a reputable mechanic that I trust knows what he's talking about and doing and will take responsibility if he effs things up.
I hate you all... ALLLLLLLLL!!!!!
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Well, apparently when I got the death wobble, it came back with a vengeance, not only was it the most severe case I've ever had but It cracked the frame in two locations. Great!
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
What else have you replaced? Trac bar is not the ONLY source of DW.
Theres:
1) Worn out steering joints including the TRE on both ends of the drag link and tie rod
2) Control arm bushings
3) Incorrect caster angle caused by a need for longer LCAs or caster shims
4) Tires out of balance (front or rear, btw)
5) Loose steering gear box internals
6) Steering gear box not tight to the frame
7) Loose steering shaft - although this shouldn't necessarily CAUSE it, but if oscillation starts, slop in this area will allow it to worsen.
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Looks like it's time to bust out the drill and welder. What else have you replaced? Trac bar is not the ONLY source of DW. Theres: 1) Worn out steering joints including the TRE on both ends of the drag link and tie rod 2) Control arm bushings 3) Incorrect caster angle caused by a need for longer LCAs or caster shims 4) Tires out of balance (front or rear, btw) 5) Loose steering gear box internals 6) Steering gear box not tight to the frame 7) Loose steering shaft - although this shouldn't necessarily CAUSE it, but if oscillation starts, slop in this area will allow it to worsen.
I'm gonna plate the frame, balencer tires (never had this done ever), and fix the castor (3" lift using stock control arms), and finnally replace the steering box with a S10 4x4 box. Then I'll go from there, other than that the only thing I can think that it may be is the ZJ linkage I got is bad.
And as for the cracked frame, what do u mean drill? Lol. Is there a trick I don't know about, I was just gonna plate it with flat bar.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
lol.. did I beat ya to it?
My money is on that ZJ linkage. Honestly man, just get a new drag link, tie rod and TREs. They're not that expensive, and anything you encounter used is more than likely going to be worn out. Tires never being balanced certainly doesn't help. If you've not done at least a driveway alignment, that could be a cause and longer LCAs will also help (comical, yet effective video below explaining that)
Ball joints new (Spicer), wheel hubs new (Timkin), steering box new (A1 Cardon Crap alread has sector shaft loose/leaking), trackbar/bracket new (RC), control arm bushings new, steering linkage off JY ZJ.
I'm gonna plate the frame, balencer tires (never had this done ever), and fix the castor (3" lift using stock control arms), and finnally replace the steering box with a S10 4x4 box. Then I'll go from there, other than that the only thing I can think that it may be is the ZJ linkage I got is bad.
And as for the cracked frame, what do u mean drill? Lol. Is there a trick I don't know about, I was just gonna plate it with flat bar.
I'm gonna plate the frame, balencer tires (never had this done ever), and fix the castor (3" lift using stock control arms), and finnally replace the steering box with a S10 4x4 box. Then I'll go from there, other than that the only thing I can think that it may be is the ZJ linkage I got is bad.
And as for the cracked frame, what do u mean drill? Lol. Is there a trick I don't know about, I was just gonna plate it with flat bar.
CF Veteran

Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 2
From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by Basslicks
My money is on that ZJ linkage. Honestly man, just get a new drag link, tie rod and TREs. They're not that expensive, and anything you encounter used is more than likely going to be worn out. Tires never being balanced certainly doesn't help. If you've not done at least a driveway alignment, that could be a cause and longer LCAs will also help (comical, yet effective video below explaining that)
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
That said, I recommend adjustable arms anyway so you can get it perfect.




