Jeep Builds Make your own jeep build thread here, discuss and view jeeps here. All Jeep models are welcome here.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

2 door XJ - take 2

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 4, 2016 | 10:24 PM
  #61  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

I have a big issue with Iron Rock Off-road right now. I paid how much more for Bilstein shocks and they doesn't give any instructions for the entire extra bag of hardware that comes with it to accommodate the shocks?? What's that about.
But on the plus side I'm only two bolts away from the rear end lift being in. Just need to pick up the M24-2.0 x 120mm flange head nipple tip front leaf spring bolts.
Also this is the only time in my life I wish I had less gas in the tank. Only about 4 gallons but it was sloshing every which way. If you look back a few posts you can see the J bolts I picked up for the straps and they worked great.



Also am pleased to say the rear body on the 99 2 door is the same as an 01 4 door so that means I can get the Napier QF flares. Just ordered them and am hoping they ship quickly so I can install them prior to painting so I get the holes in there and weld the fenders closed prior.


Last edited by kylemason; Aug 4, 2016 at 11:00 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 5, 2016 | 07:03 PM
  #62  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Is there some trick to getting the manual transmission the last inch into the engine? Was at it for 2 hours and I am no closer. I don't have a transmission jack but a jack with a board across it keeps it level enough.
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:25 AM
  #63  
T1XJ's Avatar
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 317
Likes: 1
Year: 1998, 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default

clutch alignment tool if you don't have one. lines up the clutch with the pilot bearing and makes it easier to slip the transmission shaft into the clutch/pilot bearing. if it doesn't slide in easy, the alignment of trans to motor is off.
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 08:27 AM
  #64  
unidentifiedbomb's Avatar
CF Veteran
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6,098
Likes: 250
From: DE
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0
Default

Only difference should be that the rear flare will be a two-piece to accommodate the door on the 4-door. They don't make a 2-door version of the QF? It'll look a little goofy
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 03:27 PM
  #65  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by T1XJ
clutch alignment tool if you don't have one. lines up the clutch with the pilot bearing and makes it easier to slip the transmission shaft into the clutch/pilot bearing. if it doesn't slide in easy, the alignment of trans to motor is off.
By alignment you just mean the angle?
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 03:29 PM
  #66  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Originally Posted by unidentifiedbomb
Only difference should be that the rear flare will be a two-piece to accommodate the door on the 4-door. They don't make a 2-door version of the QF? It'll look a little goofy
This is for the flat flares. So it's just one piece in the back still. Napier had previously thought the wheel wells were different sizes or the body line was higher on the two door
Reply
Old Aug 6, 2016 | 07:46 PM
  #67  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

That's what it looks like after the 3" IRO lift with Bilstein shocks. Except it is missing the front shocks as I can't get the bar pins in.. which is pretty annoying. I also could only get 3 out of 4 of the track bar bracket bolts in, I will have to drill out the bracket some to make it work, which is also annoying. This kit has some issues, but I think it will suite my needs after all is said and done.




And for anyone considering the manual swap this is the transmission tunnel cover differences - left is the 1999's (auto) and the right is the 1996's (manual). Most of the holes line up but you will have to drill a few in the corners.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 6, 2016 at 07:53 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 7, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #68  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Got the bar pins in.



Also had my first substantial bloodshed due to the jeep. Was finishing up the brakes and my rachet broke/gave out so I went head first into a castle nut. Whoops.



Got the rear drive shaft in. I will be needing a longer drive shaft/SYE thats for sure. The rubber cover doesn't even reach the driveshaft. I'll grab a picture tomorrow. Need to figure out if I'm going to clearance the intake or just try another exhaust header. I already got refunded by eBay so I'll probably return this one and try one more then just clearance it because the 99+ is notoriously bad for aftermarket header clearance. Tomorrow I would like to get the transmission seated then the front driveshaft installed so it is at least front wheel drive. Not that it's going anywhere. Then I'll probably start sanding it. Crazy how far this has come. I get to order paint tomorrow!! The Coating Store / ChemFX is where I'm getting it from if you were wondering. I have about two weeks to prep for paint so I plan on using as much of that as possible because I understand that is what it takes to get the best paint job. 85% prep and 10% how well you can spray and then 5% wet sanding. You'll see is guess. That's all for now.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 7, 2016 at 10:32 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 8, 2016 | 06:23 PM
  #69  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Started prepping paint. 220 on most of it but am using some 80 grit on the roof because the previous owner had used bed liner on it, and did a pretty poor job at it none the less. I'm happy with the progress, I hit all of the body and most of the roof today and will hopefully finish off the roof soon. Then I'll bondo and sand again with 600. In the second picture I think it looks like The General Mayhem from Motor Trend's Roadkill show.





I ordered my paint today, under $300 for low gloss single stage and primer. Here is as close to the color I can give for an example. This is Wool Grey were mine will be a little darker and is Charcoal Grey, but you get the idea.



Still need to seat the transmission and get it running but I couldn't help myself do something that makes a big difference visually.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 8, 2016 at 07:07 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2016 | 10:33 AM
  #70  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Getting ready for first start up and remember the ground wires are fused together so I cut it off and am ordering some upgraded 4AWG cables from xjwonders - https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f73/up...cables-221513/, get them while they are hot, sale going on until the 14th in honor of his wedding.



ABS light is on, will have to see what the is about later. This is the first time I have seen how many miles are on the Jeep too, within 1000 miles of the donor jeep. Crazy!



I also checked out my LED tail lights and am looking forward to putting them in later for the last time. I am refusing to keep anything nice on it until the paint is 100% done. I'd just have to take them off again anyway. (Waiting to be installed: headlights, taillights, headliner, new bulbs, etc etc)







I gutted the passenger door to prep for paint and took off the door handles and mirrors. Getting closer.. still need to sand with 500 and then 1000 grit, bondo a bunch more and take care of the roof. So I have plenty to do.

Committed to doing the final assembly at home instead of at the shop. The girlfriend is realizing it'll be more than "a couple of days" before she can park in there again. Whoops!


Last edited by kylemason; Aug 15, 2016 at 12:51 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2016 | 02:02 PM
  #71  
offroadXJ1999's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: Grove City Ohio
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

Outstanding build!! Cant wait to see it when its all put back together! Glad im not the only one rockin the 2 door
Also kyle I sent you a PM about parts on the donor.

Last edited by offroadXJ1999; Aug 10, 2016 at 03:09 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2016 | 05:03 PM
  #72  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Been trying to find information on painting the OEM plastic on the handles and side mirrors but the search feature up top is less than helpful. Is it all just ABS plastic? I hate it when there are 40 different shades of black so here is my color plan:

Low-Gloss Metallic Charcoal Grey
  • Body/Sheet Metal
  • Lift Gate Panel (starting grey, maybe satin black)
  • Louvers (starting grey, maybe satin black)
Satin Black
  • Grille
  • Headlight Bezels
  • Rims
  • Badging
  • Window trimmings
  • Door handles*
  • Side mirrors*
  • Fender flares*
  • Bumpers* (near future)
  • Roof rack* (future)

Anything with an asterix might end up needing to be sprayed with DupliColor Bed Armor.

Need to know if the handles and side mirrors paint well enough and last. I would paint everything with the DupliColor Bed Armor but don't like the shade as much as the satin black I picked out. I hear using red scotch brite pads work well on the Napier flares so I would use them to prep the mirrors and handles too.

My current plan is to paint everything I think I may want grey. Then use PlastiDip to test what I maybe want satin black (rear lift gate panel, louver). Then if i like those item black I'll spray them. Then if the satin doesn't hold up on the handles and mirrors I will use the DupliColor Bed Armor.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 13, 2016 at 08:21 AM.
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2016 | 09:35 PM
  #73  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Welder friend is making some progress on the floor pans. And my leaf spring bolts came in from Fastenal.


My Napier Flat Flares and exhaust manifold will deliver tomorrow - if that ever happened as planned. UPS seemed to hate my apartment building and refuses to leave packages without a recipient, even when one isn't required. I tried picking them up tonight from the sorting facility - but it was in the semi still apparently. So I went onto the UPS site and approved the delivery without a recipient multiple ways and left a note on my exterior door. We will see..

Rant over.
EDIT: - holy **** they actually left my packages at the door.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 12, 2016 at 02:12 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 12, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #74  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Napier Flat Quarter Fold flares came in today, so did my exhaust header, don't have a running car to go to the shop and test fit them. But I did compare them to the OEM color on the side mirrors. They match surprisingly well.


That being said they are a bit high gloss for my taste and after seeing it in person I will definitely be painting them satin black with the grille and headlight bezel and all that stuff previously mentioned. But I need to make sure they fit right first because I don't need to void my possible return haha.

My new exhaust manifold fit perfect this time around so I don't know why the last one didn't clear.

Was going to wait to order the satin black and paint things as I go but know I want a few things right away and don't want to sand it twice so I ordered it last night. Also ordered badging (went with 2014 Jeep Cherokee logos), ABS adhesion promoter primer, lug nuts, smoked turn signal housings, and red scotch brite pads. Lets just say, you can tell I got paid yesterday.

Looking into some affordable A/T tires and have narrowed it down to the following, in order of preference:
  • Hankook Dynapro ATM ($150)
  • Kumho Road Venture ($120)
  • BFG All-Terrain T/A KO2 ($170)
  • Capitol A/T ($115)
  • Kenda Klever A/T($120)

Let me know If you have any of these and what you think. I still need to source a 5th canyon rim and figure out backspacing and how much of an issue it'll be on the stock rim. I think my plan is to get the 4 tires now and then when I need to do my rotation after about 5000 miles I'll buy the 5th and make sure I have another 15x7 Canyon rim for it.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 13, 2016 at 10:51 PM.
Reply
Old Aug 14, 2016 | 10:28 PM
  #75  
kylemason's Avatar
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
 
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 305
Likes: 1
From: Fargo, ND
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default

Didn't get quite as much done as I'd hope. But have a good amount of the engine bay assembled just need the cooling system. Started on the flares but need to get some cheap clamps to free up a hand. But they look like they are lining up fine with the body lines.

Last edited by kylemason; Aug 15, 2016 at 01:26 PM.
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:56 AM.