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That cavity above the rear shock bolts is harder to reach than I thought.

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Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:29 PM
  #16  
Lowrange2's Avatar
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by salad
Are you talking about putting the nut above? I installed with

Bolt head
lock washer
sheet metal
shock bar pin
flat washer
nut
Bolt from above.

Bolt head
Flat washer
sheet metal
shock bar pin
flat washer
lock washer
nut
Old Oct 12, 2013 | 10:37 PM
  #17  
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Doesn't the bolt head turn when you try to tighten the nut?
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 07:17 AM
  #18  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by salad
Doesn't the bolt head turn when you try to tighten the nut?
Not if you put enough side pressure on it when you tighten it.
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:29 AM
  #19  
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Tapping a new hole is beyond my skill level and basic tool set. I've seen a mechanic tap the thread after he removed my melted on O2 sensor. Nothing I would attempt without a lift. To tap a hole way up in that crevice shock cavity, while contortion of my arms? No way. It would take forever, and I can already feel that BURN in my shoulders just typing it.

I will try the drop down the bolt in the hole method.

I guess I can understand that the lock washer notch may dig into the surface it's being squeezed towards, but that doesn't address how the nut will spin on at first, when there is no tension on the lock washer yet. Seems like the lock washer will only provide "bite" when you're doing the final tightening.
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by allevolution
Kind of skimmed this thread.. But what I used was a magnetic rod. Fed the bolt from the top so it basically fell down (gravity makes that easy)

And then had a ratcheting long handle wrench to hold the nut on top
Ok, so another vote for buying an extra-long 13mm.
You were not able to tighten the nut without securing the bolt head?
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #21  
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Wait, so what's the correct way?
Lock washer above the sheet metal?
Or last thing on before the final nut?
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:34 AM
  #22  
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Seriously, all joking aside, why do you continue to attempt this stuff when it's clear that you just can't do it?
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 09:37 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Wait, so what's the correct way?
Lock washer above the sheet metal?
Or last thing on before the final nut?
Depends on the application. In this case I feel that it'd best to be on the nut side.

Ultimately, it doesn't really matter. It's not there to bite into anything. It's there to provide tension so that it doesn't loosen due to vibration.

Because the internet said so.
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Seriously, all joking aside, why do you continue to attempt this stuff when it's clear that you just can't do it?
Because I love learning extremely complicated stuff. This is right up there with getting through medical school. That's probably why my mechanic lives in a more prestigious zip code (and has way more money and toys) than all my doctor friends.

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Oct 13, 2013 at 10:13 AM.
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:09 AM
  #25  
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I am going to stick with the lock washer next to the bolt head. I guess it doesn't matter if the purpose is NOT to dig in and secure the bolt from spinning, but simply to provide tension if things get loose. But, if it DOES help with that, I might as well have it up in the bolt head area.

Otherwise, as far as the spinning bolt issue, I will try to just jam something like a long screwdriver onto the bolt head in the cavity, just to press it down while I get the nut spun on. Then I'll see if the friction of the sheet metal and washers is enough to be able to tighten the nut without having to secure the bolt head. If not, I'll buy a 13mm extra long wrench for $30. So much cheaper to take shocks to a mechanic! This is one expensive hobby.

Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Oct 13, 2013 at 10:12 AM.
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:12 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Because I love learning extremely complicated stuff. This is right up there with getting through medical school. That's probably why my mechanic lives in a more prestigious zip code than all my doctor friends.
Wait let me get this straight.
I thought were a CPA or lawyer.
You are in medical school?
Old Oct 13, 2013 | 10:14 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BimmerJeeper
Because I love learning extremely complicated stuff. This is right up there with getting through medical school. That's probably why my mechanic lives in a more prestigious zip code than all my doctor friends.
.....seriously?

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