That cavity above the rear shock bolts is harder to reach than I thought.
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Tapping a new hole is beyond my skill level and basic tool set. I've seen a mechanic tap the thread after he removed my melted on O2 sensor. Nothing I would attempt without a lift. To tap a hole way up in that crevice shock cavity, while contortion of my arms? No way. It would take forever, and I can already feel that BURN in my shoulders just typing it.
I will try the drop down the bolt in the hole method.
I guess I can understand that the lock washer notch may dig into the surface it's being squeezed towards, but that doesn't address how the nut will spin on at first, when there is no tension on the lock washer yet. Seems like the lock washer will only provide "bite" when you're doing the final tightening.
I will try the drop down the bolt in the hole method.
I guess I can understand that the lock washer notch may dig into the surface it's being squeezed towards, but that doesn't address how the nut will spin on at first, when there is no tension on the lock washer yet. Seems like the lock washer will only provide "bite" when you're doing the final tightening.
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You were not able to tighten the nut without securing the bolt head?
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Ultimately, it doesn't really matter. It's not there to bite into anything. It's there to provide tension so that it doesn't loosen due to vibration.
Because the internet said so.
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Because I love learning extremely complicated stuff. This is right up there with getting through medical school. That's probably why my mechanic lives in a more prestigious zip code (and has way more money and toys) than all my doctor friends.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Oct 13, 2013 at 10:13 AM.
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I am going to stick with the lock washer next to the bolt head. I guess it doesn't matter if the purpose is NOT to dig in and secure the bolt from spinning, but simply to provide tension if things get loose. But, if it DOES help with that, I might as well have it up in the bolt head area.
Otherwise, as far as the spinning bolt issue, I will try to just jam something like a long screwdriver onto the bolt head in the cavity, just to press it down while I get the nut spun on. Then I'll see if the friction of the sheet metal and washers is enough to be able to tighten the nut without having to secure the bolt head. If not, I'll buy a 13mm extra long wrench for $30. So much cheaper to take shocks to a mechanic! This is one expensive hobby.
Otherwise, as far as the spinning bolt issue, I will try to just jam something like a long screwdriver onto the bolt head in the cavity, just to press it down while I get the nut spun on. Then I'll see if the friction of the sheet metal and washers is enough to be able to tighten the nut without having to secure the bolt head. If not, I'll buy a 13mm extra long wrench for $30. So much cheaper to take shocks to a mechanic! This is one expensive hobby.
Last edited by BimmerJeeper; Oct 13, 2013 at 10:12 AM.
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I thought were a CPA or lawyer.
You are in medical school?
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