dave1123

In my opinion, the headlights on the WJ are the best I've ever seen on any jeep up until 2004. I have no experience beyond that. They give incredible lighting with just halogen bulbs, especially on high beam. The low beams are a little shrouded with minimal side illumination, but the high beam bulbs are set very far forward and give great area flood as well as distance penetration. Fog lights help a lot on low beam. Without them it's difficult to find the edge of driveways sometimes when turning in. I've had it 4 years and only had to replace 1 set of bulbs. I drive quite a lot at night and they are on high beam most of the time. They are bright enough that deer freeze or run away before I get there.

It the lenses are really cloudy, don't bother trying to polish them. I went the whole route and the plastic itself was crazed, so I bought cheap Chinese housings 3 years ago and they are still perfect. DO NOT DRY WIPE THEM!! I have before and after pics if you want to see the difference.

00_WJ_4.0

I actually did just do the restore to the ones on my brown Jeep, there are fine cracks in the lenses but they are a hundred times better than the foggy headlights I started with. They don't look terrible until you're right on top of them Lol

ipomea

Thanks all for giving me some confidence that my new(2000 6/4wd) Laredo headlights are probably just fine and won't go out on me at night. I've had it parked for a week now and guess I'll start adjusting and begin driving the thing! A neighbor showed up and want's my Sport ('99, 292,000). What an easy sell! I will miss the Sport a lot, and wish the Laredo body style weren't so different---as I opened the front door, I banged it into my knee, and then I noticed the shape of the edge was curved, outward right where it would...hit a knee or calf. Why the heck they do such things! Also, the seats are 'designed' with a concave shape, which inhibit my vision (I'm short) and I don't feel as in control of all around me as the Sport. Actually, much of the WJ design is for looks and not functionality---too bad. apparently a fat person sat to one side of the driver's seat and it is squashed in making the seat unlevel. Well, it is what it is and it's mine and I will give it LUV. Driving it to work tomorrow, but will be on the lookout for another Sport with my name on it. Thanks again y'all.

00_WJ_4.0

No problem and honestly I love the WJ, I've had four of them and the shortness thing, my fiance is 5'4" and she drives it all the time. The brown one is hers actually and she loves it. You will get used to it. Seats are quite easy to replace. Not sure if yours are power or not but that makes a big difference. The seats in the brown one I have are power and greatly adjustable so it's not a problem for her to make it work. They are great and pretty damn good wheeling.

dave1123

Yes, the doors are ankle-biters until you get used to them. I have a couple of scars to prove it! The seats have a tendency to collapse on the outside edges because of pressure on getting in and out. The driver's seat also pinched a nerve in my hip, so I put an XJ seat in it until I can find a nice pair of ZJ grey seats. All Jeep seats mount on their bases with 4 studs with nuts on them underneath. They are a PITA to get to unless you remove the entire assembly from the floor first, but the cushion assemblies are all the same mountings regardless of base track systems. The floor pan in the WJ is different from the XJ or ZJ, but the cushions still fit. BTW, I'm only 5'6" and have manual seats, but still love my WJ. Watch out for that wide door pillar! It hides a lot of things visually.

Another thing to watch is the hatch latches. There are 2 of them, one on each side. They are hard to lube, but you must keep them well greased internally and the only way to do that is inside the panel. They operate with cables to a central bellcrank behind the handle and those cables must be adjusted to the identical same length. Mine were just slightly off so one latch would pop before the other making opening the hatch difficult at times. The rear door latches are also hard to keep lubed. The best access to those is using spray grease thru the child lock lever opening. On all the latches, lubing the outside doesn't do anything but make a mess. The latch bodies are nylon and the internal parts are well protected, however the operating levers that are outside the latch mechanism are steel with rivets for pivots and rust up easily.

The latches have microswitches in them so they are about $150 each to replace, but I get mine from the junkyard for $5! Sometimes you have to "massage" them before you install them, but it sure beats buying new ones!

00_WJ_4.0

Lol I had one frozen door on my blue one and had to take it all apart and lubed the crap out if it but it works flawlessly now. some things are a pain but this is the place to learn what you need to know on these Jeeps. A lot of people here that know a lot about them.

ftakm44

I have a 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo, 4.0 I6. I am having electrical issues and the vehicle will not start. Most people with the electrical issue comment on haywire gauges and flashing lights. I have none of these symptoms.

Car was operating as normal. Went to restart, car will crank, no start. Gauges are dead, instrument cluster lights illuminate. Sentry key light is on. Replaced immobilizer, reprogrammed keys, no start.
Fuel pump gets no power. No spark. Through the ASD, I can jump the fuel pump, but still no spark. Replaced crank sensor.

Now, cannot access PCM to pull codes. Scan tool powers on, but advises of linking error. I do not believe the PCM is bad as all other functions are normal.

What would cause the Sentry key light to illuminate. Would it be the passenger door switch?

Nermin Cerimovic

BleedingJustice

I like the zebra paint job.