Want a new audio setup with more room
I currently have 2 12 inch subs in my cherokee and it sounds good and all, but i want this giant box out of the way so i actually have room to put stuff in the back if i go camping or whatever. What are some good setups you guys have that give you good sound quality but dont have to sacrafice room for it?
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A company called SubThump makes a stealth style cubby mount box;
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...1051301&page=2 Throw one of these SoundQubed 8" in there with 500w RMS or more from the amp and it should hit pretty hard. https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HD.../dp/B00TA2WW3M |
Originally Posted by investinwaffles
(Post 3331847)
A company called SubThump makes a stealth style cubby mount box;
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthrea...1051301&page=2 Throw one of these SoundQubed 8" in there with 500w RMS or more from the amp and it should hit pretty hard. https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HD.../dp/B00TA2WW3M |
Here's my setup. I originally ran a RE 8" sub but when I blew it I went with the infinity which had a deeper mounting depth, hence the funky lil spacer. I'm not rattling windows, but sound quality is excellent. Those little infinity subs are surprisingly powerful.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...05f8ef166b.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...07d8e182aa.jpg |
Originally Posted by LACK
(Post 3331862)
That sub thump box has a mounting depth of 5.25, that sub requires 5.5.
Space makes bass - not subwoofer cone size. A solid 8" setup will outperform a thrown together 10" setup easily. Alternatively, the Sundown SD2 8" would be the perfect sub but is a bit more expensive. 4.75" mounting depth, likes a .25 cu-ft box, will handle 500w+ RMS.; http://www.ebay.com/itm/SUNDOWN-AUDI...-/400395122147 |
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Here is my setup. 12 inch sub with 600 watts. It sounds great in my opinion, not winning any awards but it hits pretty good. I can fit full golf club bags and all sorts of stuff in there no problem, and the sub is set up to be quick release so I can pull it out in 30 seconds and have that space back. (Excuse the tools and junk, I live in a dorm so I have to keep it there).
Attachment 296690 Attachment 296691 |
Originally Posted by ctrick98
(Post 3331991)
the sub is set up to be quick release so I can pull it out in 30 seconds and have that space back.
I plan to use as many security screws as I can for the enclosure mounting, and I am considering sacrificing the box by gluing the subwoofer in place when mounting it so it is a permanent install (or you have to mangle the box to get it out). Probably will use some of these security self-tappers; http://www.albanycountyfasteners.com...m?1=1&CartID=0 At least slow the thieves down. Most of em are only to smash-and-grab, not spend time trying to remove a permanently installed subwoofer, or disassemble my interior to try and remove the enclosure |
Also, Just FYI
Soundqubed is having a black Friday/cyber Monday sale. The HDS208 4 ohm model sold out on Friday, but they are back in-stock on Amazon. $88 shipped vs $120 normal retail price. I just bought one because I missed out, and its less than half the price of the Sundown SD2 which was my top choice for a small SPL optimized sealed enclosure. Both subwoofers are designed for .25 cu-ft boxes which the SubThump enclosure roughly matches. https://www.amazon.com/SoundQubed-HD.../dp/B00TA2WW3M General rule is to leave half diameter of the pole-vent for clearance behind the subwoofer. .25" should be enough but I will probably use a 1" round paddle drill bit to clearance a 1/4" divot for better airflow since the MDF is probably 3/4" (rough math) |
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There is ample room under front seats for a slim powered subwoofer or two.
I settled on a sealed and powered 10" Rockford Fosgate in cargo area. Box is angled to fit seatback. Sealed boxes are smaller than a ported box, sound different as well. Being self-powered it does not require a separate amp or wiring. A single 10" sub is plenty, an 8" would be more fitting. |
Originally Posted by investinwaffles
(Post 3332110)
For me, that usually ends up meaning that thieves can also quick-release it in about 30 seconds :( I plan to use as many security screws as I can for the enclosure mounting, and I am considering sacrificing the box by gluing the subwoofer in place when mounting it so it is a permanent install (or you have to mangle the box to get it out). Probably will use some of these security self-tappers At least slow the thieves down. Most of em are only to smash-and-grab, not spend time trying to remove a permanently installed subwoofer, or disassemble my interior to try and remove the enclosure |
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
(Post 3332125)
There is ample room under front seats for a slim powered subwoofer or two
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Originally Posted by shooptube
(Post 3332229)
Off topic but that trailer hitch step is awesome
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Thanks for the info guys! Now if i go with the setup that goes in the little cubby in the cargo area will i need to get new wiring for the sub? Or could i just use the wiring from the subs i have and just re route them? I have no knowledge of electrical things of this nature. And i still gotta get my transfer case issue fixed before i do anything
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Originally Posted by XjCivic1993
(Post 3332612)
Thanks for the info guys! Now if i go with the setup that goes in the little cubby in the cargo area will i need to get new wiring for the sub? Or could i just use the wiring from the subs i have and just re route them? I have no knowledge of electrical things of this nature. And i still gotta get my transfer case issue fixed before i do anything
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Originally Posted by ctrick98
(Post 3332627)
You can reuse the wires and everything, if you get a new sub and reuse the amp make sure that the wattage and resistance for the new sub will work with your old amp, but other than that the wires will work for a new sub
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