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-   -   Onboard air from stock AC compressor, pressure switch (https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f89/onboard-air-stock-ac-compressor-pressure-switch-243298/)

skife 03-27-2018 06:11 AM

Onboard air from stock AC compressor, pressure switch
 
What pressure switch are you guys using? Is there an over the counter option or am I going to have to bust out the msc catalog?

4.3L XJ 03-27-2018 11:12 AM

I use a 150# switch with a 200# relief valve. You are going to use one aren't you? That compressor will pump 400 psi easily. You can get them from various places. I got one from Amazon. Kilby Enterprises has all that stuff if you cannot find it anyplace else. Did you plumb in a check valve? You will need one of those too. Best not to try to start the compressor under load or have your pressure bleed back out through the compressor valves when it cycles off


Bugout4x4 03-27-2018 11:17 AM

Might want to figure out how to lube it or it won't last long. The internals of an AC compressor needs to be lubed or it will fry.

4.3L XJ 03-27-2018 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by Bugout4x4 (Post 3477373)
Might want to figure out how to lube it or it won't last long. The internals of an AC compressor needs to be lubed or it will fry.

You can lube them internally if you vent the crank case. I have run the one in the vid for about ten years now internally lubed. If you don't vent the crank case, the internal pressure will push the oil out past the piston rings and run it dry

Bugout4x4 03-27-2018 11:30 AM


Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ (Post 3477376)
You can lube them internally if you vent the crank case. I have run the one in the vid for about ten years now internally lubed. If you don't vent the crank case, the internal pressure will push the oil out past the piston rings and run it dry

Great job. It just needs some sort of lube. Once the closed system and lube charge is removed it needs something to replace that. :)

The old Chrysler V twin compressors were the best for making these. They actually had an oil pump in the crankcase that pressurized the crank and rod bearings. But they were big and needed lots of room. lol

4.3L XJ 03-27-2018 12:16 PM

That is the nice thing about an AC compressor, compact and lots of air

skife 03-27-2018 01:34 PM


Originally Posted by 4.3L XJ (Post 3477372)
I use a 150# switch with a 200# relief valve. You are going to use one aren't you? That compressor will pump 400 psi easily. You can get them from various places. I got one from Amazon. Kilby Enterprises has all that stuff if you cannot find it anyplace else. Did you plumb in a check valve? You will need one of those too. Best not to try to start the compressor under load or have your pressure bleed back out through the compressor valves when it cycles off

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q39yoOjlU4c

I haven't started plumbing it yet, never even crossed my mind to add in a check valve. I'll check the video out when I get home. The relief valve I'm just going to pull off an old air compressor I have laying around.


Originally Posted by Bugout4x4 (Post 3477373)
Might want to figure out how to lube it or it won't last long. The internals of an AC compressor needs to be lubed or it will fry.

Since the compressor is lubed with oil circulating through the system, I've considered putting a "T" in my PCV line and pulling air in through that.

Bugout4x4 03-27-2018 05:06 PM


Originally Posted by skife (Post 3477413)
Since the compressor is lubed with oil circulating through the system, I've considered putting a "T" in my PCV line and pulling air in through that.

Pulling oil mist from the crankcase you mean? I don't see why that wouldn't work. Wouldn't be much different than a two cycle engine lubrication system. Doesn't take much just has to have some. :)

skife 03-27-2018 05:47 PM


Originally Posted by Bugout4x4 (Post 3477488)
Pulling oil mist from the crankcase you mean? I don't see why that wouldn't work. Wouldn't be much different than a two cycle engine lubrication system. Doesn't take much just has to have some. :)

yeah, that's the idea, i figure the air leaves an oil residue in the air filter intake tube, hopefully that's enough to keep everything ok. if not, i'm in michigan, quite a few cherokee's headed to the junkyard every day.

Bugout4x4 03-27-2018 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by skife (Post 3477500)
yeah, that's the idea, i figure the air leaves an oil residue in the air filter intake tube, hopefully that's enough to keep everything ok. if not, i'm in michigan, quite a few cherokee's headed to the junkyard every day.

Might work! I would be curious how it affects the engine vacuum. You may want to put a check valve there too so that when it is off it can't bleed back though as a vacuum leak. I wonder if it will end up being a vacuum pump? If you do this please let me know how it turns out and affects the engine vacuum? :)

skife 03-28-2018 05:53 AM


Originally Posted by Bugout4x4 (Post 3477508)
Might work! I would be curious how it affects the engine vacuum. You may want to put a check valve there too so that when it is off it can't bleed back though as a vacuum leak. I wonder if it will end up being a vacuum pump? If you do this please let me know how it turns out and affects the engine vacuum? :)


It shouldn't affect the engine vacuum at all as it's sucking air from the crank case, there is more than 1 vent in the valve cover and vacuum comes from the intake.


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