5-Speed

Fiberglass sucks to work with. I avoid it as much as I can. Have you ever done fiberglass work before?

How about something like this?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Metra-82-30....c100508.m3226

SatiricalHen

Not sure what I'd attach those to or how I'd make them look decent. I ordered some mdf rings and my friend has built and iron man helmet and captain America shield with fiberglass before and she's going to help with the project. I've seen people stilt up the rings and the stretch fleece over it and resin the fleece to get the shape then fiberglass it for strength. Figured it would work well in this application. Hopefully I don't ruin a Comanche headliner....

SatiricalHen

So the stumbling and backfiring stopped when I unplugged the IAT, I replaced spark plugs, injectors, replaced the driver's side wheel cylinder and put some red leds in the gauge cluster. Getting some battery cables from XJWonders for the Comanche, and a clock that should fit my year Comanche.

SatiricalHen

Not sure what this spam was, but on another note. It ran! Cam break in went fine, but I went to drive it and it didn't really want to go in gear, so I'm assuming the clutch system has air in it. Turned it off, put it in first gear and put the clutch in, starting but could tell it was dragging a bit. Tried driving it and it's sputtering, backfiring and way too loud for the time of night it was so I called it quits. Everything in the engine and transmission is new to the vehicle so I don't know what's causing it.

SatiricalHen

Alright, got the Comanche to idle at the correct speed, but I had to unplug the IAC for it to idle correctly. Some background.
-I've tried 2 different IAC
-I've properly adjusted the TPS
-I discovered this when I pulled the brake booster vacuum line while running, the idle shot way up, but then I plugged it with a sharpie and it idled perfect. I figured the brake booster had a vacuum leak causing the high idle. Turned it off and started t back up with the vacuum line still plugged. Idled high again. I pulled the sharpie out of the vacuum line and it shot higher. Plugged the line again and had a perfect idle. Pulled the plug on the IAC and it's idled perfect since.

I also have issues with the water running into the passenger floor from the air conditioning I believe. I think there is supposed to be a tube on the other side of the firewall directing the water away from running back into the cab.

I have a few other issues I need to work out.

The brake booster does have a vacuum leak when the pedal is depressed, but still works.

It started stumbling again, but doesn't get bad enough to backfire anymore. I've ordered a couple of sensors to replace which may help.
(the engine coolant sensor, and an o2 sensor since both seem original.

If anyone has and comments/Advice about anything. Please let me know.

XJwonders

Is the IAC plunger functioning and reaching the valve seat?

SatiricalHen

As far as I know. I know if you pull the IAC out and turn the key it's toast, so I don't have a way to know for sure.

SatiricalHen

I'm not sure what to do about the stumble it is having. The engine is rebuilt, new distributor, new ECT sensor, new o2 sensor, IAT converted to the GM one since renix ones are discontinued, I've tried a different tps with no change. The stumble stops whenever an IAT is not plugged in, but there is a huge change in power. If the IAT is plugged in it will stumble with moderate throttle noticed mostly trying to cruise down the highway and just maintain a steady speed. If I let off it, will run fine if I floor it, it will run fine. I saw someone had just put a resistor in place of the IAT, but I don't know enough about resistors to know what is safe and what will burn up. I know he said it was a certain ohm, but I believe they're rated on voltage or amp too? Anyway I would like to try it to see what happens. Anyone have any suggestions?

SatiricalHen

The Comanche needs wheel bearings. I can't decide what I want to do though. With the old style spindle and brake rotor hub style I can't fit the dust caps for the moab wheels it has. I have the right knuckles, rotors, and calipers for the newer style stuff. I just need unit bearings and ball joints. If I do wheel bearings On the old style I plan to get new rotors, pads, bearings and such since I haven't done them since I bought the truck. If I go with a decent ball joint and a cheaper unit bearing the price is about equal to redoing the old style stuff. So price being equal what should I do? Old style or new style?

XJwonders

Those older style knuckles are sought after. U can always sell them and do newer everything.

SatiricalHen

Made some new sounds on the way home from work today. Pretty sure it's coming from the rear end because I can't feel it in the shifter. Lots of whirling and howling at highway speed and coasting in gear

SatiricalHen

Well I'm now looking for a new rear axle for the truck. Hopefully I can find one and get it in before going back to school

XJwonders

You can do it!

SatiricalHen

Well I go back tomorrow or Monday and she's sitting on the ground with about 20 minutes of driving on the new rear axle. I definitely need to fix the speedometer speed, but it doesn't seem to be making any noise. Also I painted the wheel bearing dust caps since they stick through the front wheels while waiting on the paint to dry I installed some used wj shocks that were much more absorbing than the ones I pulled off and fit okay, but wouldn't recommend unless free. So hopefully the Comanche will run and drive okay for a while.

SatiricalHen

I bought an REM to better understand what the computer is seeing and hopefully solve my running issues