88whitecomanche comanche build thread
07-18-2016, 06:14 PM
#158
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Brakes are done! Let's just say this thing brakes better than my 98 xj...wow! I suggest this to anyone that wants to add the wj booster and master cylinder and sensing valve delete.....
Also the lines cleared the window washer bottle...
Ah and added a 6" billet antenna...
Also the lines cleared the window washer bottle...
Ah and added a 6" billet antenna...
07-22-2016, 08:07 PM
#160
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The actual booster/master cylinder process probably took maybe 3 hours tops for being my first time...the loading sensing valve delete took about another couple for trying to figure out why didn't I have rear brakes and swapping fittings over to make everything work...
If I remember correctly The tools to complete the job cost more than the parts itself...(harbor freight brands/w discounts)
Double flaring tool/brake line tube bender/brake line cutter...
Word of advice...when your using the cut off wheel to grind down the rod flat don't cut so much just a little goes a long way. I had to use duck tape to fill the gap for the brake light sensor/sender for my brake lights to work...
If I remember correctly The tools to complete the job cost more than the parts itself...(harbor freight brands/w discounts)
Double flaring tool/brake line tube bender/brake line cutter...
Word of advice...when your using the cut off wheel to grind down the rod flat don't cut so much just a little goes a long way. I had to use duck tape to fill the gap for the brake light sensor/sender for my brake lights to work...
07-27-2016, 10:36 AM
#162
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Location: Broward County Fl.
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
The actual booster/master cylinder process probably took maybe 3 hours tops for being my first time...the loading sensing valve delete took about another couple for trying to figure out why didn't I have rear brakes and swapping fittings over to make everything work...
If I remember correctly The tools to complete the job cost more than the parts itself...(harbor freight brands/w discounts)
Double flaring tool/brake line tube bender/brake line cutter...
Word of advice...when your using the cut off wheel to grind down the rod flat don't cut so much just a little goes a long way. I had to use duck tape to fill the gap for the brake light sensor/sender for my brake lights to work...
If I remember correctly The tools to complete the job cost more than the parts itself...(harbor freight brands/w discounts)
Double flaring tool/brake line tube bender/brake line cutter...
Word of advice...when your using the cut off wheel to grind down the rod flat don't cut so much just a little goes a long way. I had to use duck tape to fill the gap for the brake light sensor/sender for my brake lights to work...
Last edited by freegdr; 07-27-2016 at 10:40 AM.
07-27-2016, 05:59 PM
#163
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yeah all plastic bushings and caps on the rod...but brake lights weren't working and a write-up on comancheclub forum a guy mentioning using duck tape to get enough pressure to make the rear brakes work...
