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My 2016 Cherokee 3.2L with 35k miles has a tapping/ticking noise under the hood for about a second or two when cold starting. Sounds like oil drained from lifters maybe?
Is this common or should I get it looked at?
Odd, the XJ 4.0 had traditional “lifters” which actually touch (follow) the camshaft. The Pentastar engines in the KL have lifters which are not in contact with (do not follow) the cam. It can be seen in the center of the photo below. Maybe I am misunderstanding you.
I usually referred to lifters, like in the XJ, OHV, where the lifter rides on the cam, and uses the pushrod to activate the rocker arm.
Force of habit I never used the word lifter when talking about overhead cam engines.
(I'm also primarily a Ford guy, so my terminology can be different. I once brought rear end parts for my Bronco, called them "spider gears" and the parts guys thought I was on something.)
I have an Australian 2014 KL Cherokee 3.2L V6 Longitude. I believe it is the same engine in the Limited and Trailhawk. After 91,000 klm i have the unfortunate out of warranty tick tick tick problem. A closer listen sounds like only one has failed but i bought the last 2 the local service agent had on shelf just in case. I am up to the task of refitting the 1 (i think) collapsed Roller Rocker, but cant find a video showing the procedure to remove the Firewall or Right Bank Valve cover. If someone has one or can steer me in the right direction that would be much appreciated.
As luck would have it im out of work and trying to do this as cheaply as possible. I have a basic Manual i was able to sorce for free but of course it is incomplete. I have seen and downloaded a video from Motorcity.com working on the Left bank on a 3.6 Dodge but would like to see the process done on my 2014 KL Cherokee and any tips or short cuts. I have seen people relaxing the Camshaft Caps and sliding the Rocker out from under the Camshft at the opposite end from the Phaser but not sure if i will need to replace mine closer to the chain. It has been ticking for a few klm,s now and starting to get noticable. Most people dont hear it , but i have been playing with engines and cars long enough to know that Camshaft damage is going to be the end result if not worse.
Any help with Video or even an exerpt from a manual detailing the steps or Cautions would be hugely appreciated.
All good.i got impatient and tackled the job today.it was fairly straight forward with only the rocker or valve cover needing quite a bit of pressure to break the seal from the head. Took my time and about 3 hours later fired it up to a nice quiet idle with no more ticking
The camshaft lobe was scored on the outer edges but not the roller face that matters. I can now concentrate on other areas of the car to improve. The car came out with the 5 inch screen and I changed it to the 8.4 Nav screen from the local car wrecker.on the hunt for a tow bar and wireless charger now at the right price.
Hi there Synbad - I'm a fellow Aussie and Aircraft Engineer by trade (this might be relevant for others too tho) - bit late coming in on this but I just wanted to suggest 5W-30 Nulon Full Synthetic oil to help keep your engine healthy - especially if you're currently using 5W-20.
I was always a Penrite man until hearing good things about Nulon low friction oils and changing over from Penrite 5W-30 synthetic to Nulon 5W-30 Full Sythetic with fairly startling results. Our 2014 TH always had a startup clashing / rattle from new - it was same sound as turning the key on an already running engine and I assumed it was starter requiring shimming (seemed odd on a modern car tho). Once running it was quiet tho.
Switching to nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic Long Life oil (meets chrysler MS spec) has virtually ELIMINATED that noise - there's just a faint dull momentary rumble at startup if you listen hard. Reading up indicates the original loud clashing / rattle was probably valvetrain.
Hi there Synbad - I'm a fellow Aussie and Aircraft Engineer by trade (this might be relevant for others too tho) - bit late coming in on this but I just wanted to suggest 5W-30 Nulon Full Synthetic oil to help keep your engine healthy - especially if you're currently using 5W-20.
I was always a Penrite man until hearing good things about Nulon low friction oils and changing over from Penrite 5W-30 synthetic to Nulon 5W-30 Full Sythetic with fairly startling results. Our 2014 TH always had a startup clashing / rattle from new - it was same sound as turning the key on an already running engine and I assumed it was starter requiring shimming (seemed odd on a modern car tho). Once running it was quiet tho.
Switching to nulon 5W-30 Full Synthetic Long Life oil (meets chrysler MS spec) has virtually ELIMINATED that noise - there's just a faint dull momentary rumble at startup if you listen hard. Reading up indicates the original loud clashing / rattle was probably valvetrain.
Hi Trailfirst
Sorry for the very late reply.Laptop died with logins. Thanks for the oil info, I have been using that exact oil for a couple of years now and was hoping it was up to the task here in Brisbane. I still got about a second of rattle at cold start up but now i have the tic tic tic back at around another 50k klm. I now have the remainder roller rockers and lifters ready to go again. The new Rollers have a sleeve around the bearing pin, lets hope this is an improved design At least i know what to expect this time. Last time i bought a pair of plastic Cam chain guide depress tools to give the camshaft some slack and distance from the head to access the Rockers & Lifters.It only worked on one side and just kept falling out on the other, so this time i found a fork type Valve spring depress tool after watching "Wheeler Dealer" mechanic work on a Ford engine with the same designed heads. Oh, and since the last post i have replaced my Radiator. I was SO lucky the temp was normal and as i reversed into my Carport i noticed a trail of Coolant leading out the driveway onto the street. I had just driven 48klm from work to home...What a job... The Bumper is supposed to be removed to get the job done but with lots of swearing and holding your tongue out the right side it was possible.A bit of a worry but the engine likes sitting around 105c at lights untill the fans kick in and bring it back to mid to high 90,s. No fault codes for thermostat and system was bled a few times. Im going to replace the thermostat next and maybe bite the bullet and take ti to jeep for a check while i get a Nav Uconnect update.
05-26-2019, 08:13 PM
3.2 engine noise
