New in the SF Bay Area..
02-02-2010, 03:04 PM
#1
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Model: Cherokee
New in the SF Bay Area..
Chris from Oakland, Ca here!
Just picked up an 88 2dr 5sp for a song. She's idling rough (and sometimes stalling) so i'm going through all of the suggestions on the site...
New cap/rotor, wires, plugs, checked TPS and cleaned throttle body. Running a little better but still not there. Next going to:
Plug, unplug CPS,
Compression Check
Fuel Rail pressure check
EGR check
Will likely replace all injectors reguardless 19# Ford. (are the bosch design II's ok?)
Hoping one of these fixes it.
Great info on this site!
Just picked up an 88 2dr 5sp for a song. She's idling rough (and sometimes stalling) so i'm going through all of the suggestions on the site...
New cap/rotor, wires, plugs, checked TPS and cleaned throttle body. Running a little better but still not there. Next going to:
Plug, unplug CPS,
Compression Check
Fuel Rail pressure check
EGR check
Will likely replace all injectors reguardless 19# Ford. (are the bosch design II's ok?)
Hoping one of these fixes it.
Great info on this site!
02-02-2010, 06:44 PM
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
I'm down here in San Jose, if you decide you might want help (I seem to pick up most of the local RENIX difficulties...)
A couple other things for you to check:
1) The EGR valve may be slightly sticking open. Remove and clean.
2) Check the vacuum tube running from the MAP sensor to the passenger side of the throttle body. The TB end of that tube isn't retained very well - you'll know what I mean when you see it. There are two bungs on the TB end of that tube - put a little RTV on the "blind" one (no hose) if it comes loose to glue it in place.
3) If the problem goes away after the engine gets warmed up (or even gets better, if it doesn't go away in toto,) check torque on the manifold screws. The lower rear ones may be loose! You'll be wanting a 9/16" "flex" socket (shorty socket with inbuilt universal joint) to get to these, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet. If the problem has been around long enough, you'll note that it gets better but doesn't actually go away - that means that the gasket has burned through and will want replacing.
If you do the compression test, report back with results cold/warm dry/warm wet (dump about a teaspoonful of oil down the spark plug hole and crank for the "wet" reading) and make sure to list all six cylinders. "Cold" means sitting overnight, "warm" means operating temperature.
What was your closed throttle TPS reading vice input voltage? The reference voltage generator circuit tends to wander with age, which is why you don't set it to an absolute (output = input * .17)
A couple other things for you to check:
1) The EGR valve may be slightly sticking open. Remove and clean.
2) Check the vacuum tube running from the MAP sensor to the passenger side of the throttle body. The TB end of that tube isn't retained very well - you'll know what I mean when you see it. There are two bungs on the TB end of that tube - put a little RTV on the "blind" one (no hose) if it comes loose to glue it in place.
3) If the problem goes away after the engine gets warmed up (or even gets better, if it doesn't go away in toto,) check torque on the manifold screws. The lower rear ones may be loose! You'll be wanting a 9/16" "flex" socket (shorty socket with inbuilt universal joint) to get to these, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet. If the problem has been around long enough, you'll note that it gets better but doesn't actually go away - that means that the gasket has burned through and will want replacing.
If you do the compression test, report back with results cold/warm dry/warm wet (dump about a teaspoonful of oil down the spark plug hole and crank for the "wet" reading) and make sure to list all six cylinders. "Cold" means sitting overnight, "warm" means operating temperature.
What was your closed throttle TPS reading vice input voltage? The reference voltage generator circuit tends to wander with age, which is why you don't set it to an absolute (output = input * .17)
02-03-2010, 08:28 PM
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Well i was checking the CPS connection and it was missing a bolt on the bellhousing side 
.
SOunds pretty solid now but the seems a bit hmm....shall we say, 'bucketish' going down the road. For what i got into it a really can't complain. I've already got injectors coming from ebay and now i'm thinking of that exhaust manifold i saw at the junkyard that was in much better shape then my own. I'm still in 'drive it into the ground' territory as far as $ goes. Not sure i wanna leave there. Injectors, cap, wires, rotor, plugs, filters, i don't mind any of that. After all those are consumables.....like gas or oil. I start thinking of shocks, ball joints, exhaust manifold, new harness (the one on there ain't pretty) then I'd start pushing $1K. which i guess isn't bad. I got a 4runner too so i don't really NEED 2 rigs. Good problem to have though!!
Thanks for the help!!
.SOunds pretty solid now but the seems a bit hmm....shall we say, 'bucketish' going down the road. For what i got into it a really can't complain. I've already got injectors coming from ebay and now i'm thinking of that exhaust manifold i saw at the junkyard that was in much better shape then my own. I'm still in 'drive it into the ground' territory as far as $ goes. Not sure i wanna leave there. Injectors, cap, wires, rotor, plugs, filters, i don't mind any of that. After all those are consumables.....like gas or oil. I start thinking of shocks, ball joints, exhaust manifold, new harness (the one on there ain't pretty) then I'd start pushing $1K. which i guess isn't bad. I got a 4runner too so i don't really NEED 2 rigs. Good problem to have though!!
Thanks for the help!!
I'm down here in San Jose, if you decide you might want help (I seem to pick up most of the local RENIX difficulties...)
A couple other things for you to check:
1) The EGR valve may be slightly sticking open. Remove and clean.
2) Check the vacuum tube running from the MAP sensor to the passenger side of the throttle body. The TB end of that tube isn't retained very well - you'll know what I mean when you see it. There are two bungs on the TB end of that tube - put a little RTV on the "blind" one (no hose) if it comes loose to glue it in place.
3) If the problem goes away after the engine gets warmed up (or even gets better, if it doesn't go away in toto,) check torque on the manifold screws. The lower rear ones may be loose! You'll be wanting a 9/16" "flex" socket (shorty socket with inbuilt universal joint) to get to these, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet. If the problem has been around long enough, you'll note that it gets better but doesn't actually go away - that means that the gasket has burned through and will want replacing.
If you do the compression test, report back with results cold/warm dry/warm wet (dump about a teaspoonful of oil down the spark plug hole and crank for the "wet" reading) and make sure to list all six cylinders. "Cold" means sitting overnight, "warm" means operating temperature.
What was your closed throttle TPS reading vice input voltage? The reference voltage generator circuit tends to wander with age, which is why you don't set it to an absolute (output = input * .17)
A couple other things for you to check:
1) The EGR valve may be slightly sticking open. Remove and clean.
2) Check the vacuum tube running from the MAP sensor to the passenger side of the throttle body. The TB end of that tube isn't retained very well - you'll know what I mean when you see it. There are two bungs on the TB end of that tube - put a little RTV on the "blind" one (no hose) if it comes loose to glue it in place.
3) If the problem goes away after the engine gets warmed up (or even gets better, if it doesn't go away in toto,) check torque on the manifold screws. The lower rear ones may be loose! You'll be wanting a 9/16" "flex" socket (shorty socket with inbuilt universal joint) to get to these, and torque to 19-21 pound-feet. If the problem has been around long enough, you'll note that it gets better but doesn't actually go away - that means that the gasket has burned through and will want replacing.
If you do the compression test, report back with results cold/warm dry/warm wet (dump about a teaspoonful of oil down the spark plug hole and crank for the "wet" reading) and make sure to list all six cylinders. "Cold" means sitting overnight, "warm" means operating temperature.
What was your closed throttle TPS reading vice input voltage? The reference voltage generator circuit tends to wander with age, which is why you don't set it to an absolute (output = input * .17)
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