Hello, Getting an XJ...what to look for?
06-27-2009, 01:53 AM
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Model: Cherokee
Hello, Getting an XJ...what to look for?
So yeah, im saving up to get a Cherokee. Ive never owned an American car, but i do like Wranglers and Cherokees 90 and newer. I recently lost my '01 Prelude and now saving up to get a XJ. I have a few questions, well i actually wanted to know if theres anything that i need to be cautious about, idk if im making sense. Id like to know what i need to be concerned about when buying it. Id like a 96ish 4X4 Aut. uuummm so yeah... any advise? im in Los Angeles btw.
**Update** ok so i wanted a 4x4, but all the ones ive seen online r ugly as hell or not taken care off.. or out of my price range. Ive seen a couple that i like but theyre 4x2.... now.... does anybody lift 4x2's? do they go off-roading with them... even tho theyre not 4x4??? need help. im going to get one on Saturday.
****GOT ONE!!!*****
1999 GHRAN CHEROKEE i think its a Laredo.. or Limited.. IDK.. hehehe 165K MILES.... LEATHER.. MOONROOF 4x4 PRETTY KKOOL!!!
Thx u guys.
-Krista
**Update** ok so i wanted a 4x4, but all the ones ive seen online r ugly as hell or not taken care off.. or out of my price range. Ive seen a couple that i like but theyre 4x2.... now.... does anybody lift 4x2's? do they go off-roading with them... even tho theyre not 4x4??? need help. im going to get one on Saturday.
****GOT ONE!!!*****
1999 GHRAN CHEROKEE i think its a Laredo.. or Limited.. IDK.. hehehe 165K MILES.... LEATHER.. MOONROOF 4x4 PRETTY KKOOL!!!
Thx u guys.
-Krista
Last edited by jeepgurlax; 07-22-2009 at 03:25 AM. Reason: update
06-27-2009, 02:12 AM
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Hmm...
The AW4 auto that was coupled to the 242ci six is actually a Toyota box, three speeds plus overdrive. Dead reliable - I've abused a couple mercilessly, and the only problem I had with any of them was when I had bellhousing screws vibrate out (and the transmission didn't line up with the crankshaft anymore, which turned the 1-2 gear drum in the case and froze it in place. I needed to use my Sawzall to tear it apart, but I already had a unit handy that I'd rebuilt.)
The places that the body/frame assembly (like your compacts, it's a unibody vehicle) are around the upper corners of the liftgate opening, the door hinge-to-pillar welds, and (sometimes) around the front control arm-to-frame rail mounts. Check at least the first two - it will be fairly obvious. Stop-drilling and welding the body cracks is usually pretty easy, the door hinges are a little less easy (but not overly so,) but it still gives you a haggling point or two.
A little piston slap on startup is nothing to worry about - it should go away when the engine warms up in a few minutes (I've got an 88 that's been slapping for the last 150,000 miles. Haven't needed to do anything about it yet.) Starting in 1996, ChryCo put graphite pads on the piston skirts to help prevent this - but I think it was a mid-year change.
That's about all I can think of at the moment (it's been a long day,) but I'm sure someone else will chime in with more. You'll be happy with the XJ - it's small enough to be nimble, big enough to be useful, and tougher than the hinges of Hell all around!
The AW4 auto that was coupled to the 242ci six is actually a Toyota box, three speeds plus overdrive. Dead reliable - I've abused a couple mercilessly, and the only problem I had with any of them was when I had bellhousing screws vibrate out (and the transmission didn't line up with the crankshaft anymore, which turned the 1-2 gear drum in the case and froze it in place. I needed to use my Sawzall to tear it apart, but I already had a unit handy that I'd rebuilt.)
The places that the body/frame assembly (like your compacts, it's a unibody vehicle) are around the upper corners of the liftgate opening, the door hinge-to-pillar welds, and (sometimes) around the front control arm-to-frame rail mounts. Check at least the first two - it will be fairly obvious. Stop-drilling and welding the body cracks is usually pretty easy, the door hinges are a little less easy (but not overly so,) but it still gives you a haggling point or two.
A little piston slap on startup is nothing to worry about - it should go away when the engine warms up in a few minutes (I've got an 88 that's been slapping for the last 150,000 miles. Haven't needed to do anything about it yet.) Starting in 1996, ChryCo put graphite pads on the piston skirts to help prevent this - but I think it was a mid-year change.
That's about all I can think of at the moment (it's been a long day,) but I'm sure someone else will chime in with more. You'll be happy with the XJ - it's small enough to be nimble, big enough to be useful, and tougher than the hinges of Hell all around!
06-28-2009, 05:51 PM
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Fixed it for ya!
Welcome to the forum.
When you find a candidate to purchase, the best advice I could give would be to invest in an hour of a trusted mechanic's time. Have them check it over. I feel pretty confident about checking out a vehicle, but I usually still take it to someone who really knows what to look at before I lay down my hard earned cash.
Welcome to the forum.
When you find a candidate to purchase, the best advice I could give would be to invest in an hour of a trusted mechanic's time. Have them check it over. I feel pretty confident about checking out a vehicle, but I usually still take it to someone who really knows what to look at before I lay down my hard earned cash.
06-28-2009, 06:57 PM
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 banger....my ***
Hmm...
The AW4 auto that was coupled to the 242ci six is actually a Toyota box, three speeds plus overdrive. Dead reliable - I've abused a couple mercilessly, and the only problem I had with any of them was when I had bellhousing screws vibrate out (and the transmission didn't line up with the crankshaft anymore, which turned the 1-2 gear drum in the case and froze it in place. I needed to use my Sawzall to tear it apart, but I already had a unit handy that I'd rebuilt.)
The places that the body/frame assembly (like your compacts, it's a unibody vehicle) are around the upper corners of the liftgate opening, the door hinge-to-pillar welds, and (sometimes) around the front control arm-to-frame rail mounts. Check at least the first two - it will be fairly obvious. Stop-drilling and welding the body cracks is usually pretty easy, the door hinges are a little less easy (but not overly so,) but it still gives you a haggling point or two.
A little piston slap on startup is nothing to worry about - it should go away when the engine warms up in a few minutes (I've got an 88 that's been slapping for the last 150,000 miles. Haven't needed to do anything about it yet.) Starting in 1996, ChryCo put graphite pads on the piston skirts to help prevent this - but I think it was a mid-year change.
That's about all I can think of at the moment (it's been a long day,) but I'm sure someone else will chime in with more. You'll be happy with the XJ - it's small enough to be nimble, big enough to be useful, and tougher than the hinges of Hell all around!
The AW4 auto that was coupled to the 242ci six is actually a Toyota box, three speeds plus overdrive. Dead reliable - I've abused a couple mercilessly, and the only problem I had with any of them was when I had bellhousing screws vibrate out (and the transmission didn't line up with the crankshaft anymore, which turned the 1-2 gear drum in the case and froze it in place. I needed to use my Sawzall to tear it apart, but I already had a unit handy that I'd rebuilt.)
The places that the body/frame assembly (like your compacts, it's a unibody vehicle) are around the upper corners of the liftgate opening, the door hinge-to-pillar welds, and (sometimes) around the front control arm-to-frame rail mounts. Check at least the first two - it will be fairly obvious. Stop-drilling and welding the body cracks is usually pretty easy, the door hinges are a little less easy (but not overly so,) but it still gives you a haggling point or two.
A little piston slap on startup is nothing to worry about - it should go away when the engine warms up in a few minutes (I've got an 88 that's been slapping for the last 150,000 miles. Haven't needed to do anything about it yet.) Starting in 1996, ChryCo put graphite pads on the piston skirts to help prevent this - but I think it was a mid-year change.
That's about all I can think of at the moment (it's been a long day,) but I'm sure someone else will chime in with more. You'll be happy with the XJ - it's small enough to be nimble, big enough to be useful, and tougher than the hinges of Hell all around!
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06-30-2009, 11:31 AM
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Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 liter RENIX I-6, DIY Cold Air Intake, 2.5 FM Exhaust, 3 Core Radiator
Krista, best thing I can tell you while keeping it simple is start it up and drive it. Listen for loud knocking in the motor. Feel for any vibrations or wobbling while driving. Feel for the transmission to shift true. Check out your gauges while driving. Shouln't be getting over 210 degrees on the temp gauge. Should have around 40 PSI while cruising on the oil pressure gauge. Should have 14 volts on the volt gauge. Oh, before you drive it, pull the oil dipstick out and look for clean brownish oil. Not black and nasty. Twist off the radiator cap and look for clean coolant. Not rusty orange and nasty. I hope this helps.
07-02-2009, 06:09 PM
#13
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Welcome from Oklahoma..
Also if you hear a ticking sound it is more than likely the exhaust manifold has cracked for the #6 cylinder (I believe). Also if this was already mentioned. Crawl under it and check for rust in the floor boards.
There is also a problem with the gauges going dead but it is just a problem with the plug on the back of the cluster. There is a new plug that can be purchased from a dealer to fix the problem on the later XJs.
Check the "frame" around the steering box for cracks.
Despite what it appears the XJs are very reliable and alot make it well into the 200K+ mile mark.
Also if you hear a ticking sound it is more than likely the exhaust manifold has cracked for the #6 cylinder (I believe). Also if this was already mentioned. Crawl under it and check for rust in the floor boards.
There is also a problem with the gauges going dead but it is just a problem with the plug on the back of the cluster. There is a new plug that can be purchased from a dealer to fix the problem on the later XJs.
Check the "frame" around the steering box for cracks.
Despite what it appears the XJs are very reliable and alot make it well into the 200K+ mile mark.
07-02-2009, 06:23 PM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked
ok this is what to look for make sure its a 4.0 not a junk 4 banger u can tell the diffrence also make sure it goes it to 4h 4L if you are getting a 4x4. also check the brakes by lookin at them. make sure ther is no surface rust unibody rust is a no no dont want to deal with that check front diff for any sings on wear the u-joints all of the drive line componets must check everything
07-03-2009, 02:16 AM
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Fixed it for ya!
Welcome to the forum.
When you find a candidate to purchase, the best advice I could give would be to invest in an hour of a trusted mechanic's time. Have them check it over. I feel pretty confident about checking out a vehicle, but I usually still take it to someone who really knows what to look at before I lay down my hard earned cash.
Welcome to the forum.
When you find a candidate to purchase, the best advice I could give would be to invest in an hour of a trusted mechanic's time. Have them check it over. I feel pretty confident about checking out a vehicle, but I usually still take it to someone who really knows what to look at before I lay down my hard earned cash.
Dudette!!! lol rofl
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