jbennett

I know there is a ton of info on this subject, but it always seems like important details are missing and of course a ton of conflicting information. I've pretty much decided to do this upgrade, partially for the brakes, but mainly for the improved steering set up. I'm going to completely rebuild the D30 I'm using, so I might as well upgrade to the WJ knuckles while I'm at it.

I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions once the swap starts, but right now I'm mainly concerned with wheel combo and tie rod ends. All the threads about 15" wheels fitting almost always neglect to mention the backspacing, whether spacers are used, caliper style used, what type of tie rod ends, whether wheel is steel or aluminum or model of wheel. This info is pretty important as it all affects whether a certain wheel fits or not.

I prefer to run 15x8" wheel, probably 4" backspace and 33x12.5 tire. I'm not sure if I need offset tie rod ends to clear diff cover or not. Am I stuck with only being able to run a steel wheel? Is 4" backspace ok with 15" steel wheel and offset tie rod end? Will pretty much any 16" aluminum wheel fit with the proper backspace (maybe 4")?

I'm trying to stay away from a 16 or 17" as I prefer a 6 ply tire since the Cherokee is so light, wouldn't an 8 or 10 ply ride like crap? Also, 15" tire is much cheaper than 16 or 17". Anyone running an 8-10 ply, do you just run lower air pressure and does it ride ok or is it still hard/rough? Does it conform to the rocks offroad? What psi do you run?

I'll probably end up with 15x8 steel with 33x12.50 tire, but there are a few aluminum wheels that I'm seriously considering. I know some have said 15" aluminum wheels fit, but I'm not sure what backspace they had, has anyone found or have good info on this subject?

srb53150

i used the offset 1 ton tre to make tierod clear the diff cover, have a 1/2 " thick diff cover , they also give more clearance for the rotors, my tre clears the rotors by a 1/8 ". offset tre are the way to go. i use 15x 8 steel wheels w/ 4" bs but i needed 1 1/4 " spacers to clear everything,tires are 35x12.5x15, i like the spacers anyway for the extra track width since im lifted 5"

XJlimitedx99

Did you need the spacers to clear the calipers? Did you grind the calipers at all?

OP, I'm in the same boat as you. Just about ready to start my swap. I want to use 15x8 steelies with (I think) 4" backspacing. I have offset TRE's and plan to grind the Akebono calipers.

srb53150

i did grind the calipers at first, but the spacers just make more clearance in general. will take a look at it tomorrow & get back to ya. this is def. a worthwhile swap , brakes & steering are both much improved.

jbennett

That's the info I'm looking for, thanks. I assume if you had a standard tre, you wouldn't have needed the spacers?

I've found a 15x8 aluminum with 3.75" backspace that I want to get, but I'm pretty sure they won't even work with a standard tre, anyone know for sure? I'm planning on OTK tre and drag link. It's the American Racing AR23 wheel and I'll most likely use the Akebono calipers.

jbennett

I found a potential 16" tire option so I don't have to deal with clearance issues. New problem though, most 16x8 wheels are 4.5" backspace. Will this cause any problems? Maybe clearance issue at the control arms? If I go this route, I'll be going with 305/70-16 tire.

One other question, what are the pros and cons to running an E-rated tire (10-ply)? Mainly wondering if they affect the ride being so stiff and if they air down well offroad.

srb53150

def. use the akebono cals, the other ones for wj's were recalled. stock xj wheels are 5.5 bs, so you should be fine w/ those wheels, those are gonna be hard tires for a light weight xj. thats what i use on a 1 ton work van.

cleenrob

my set up:

Factory WJ TRE's with JKS linkage
akebono calipers
wj rotors redrilled to 5x4.5
15x8 steelie wheels with 3.75 backspacinng
33x12.5x15 coopers

everything clears

jbennett

That's the main reason I want to stick with 15" wheels, my tire size is available in 6 ply. Running 16" wheel makes fitment easier for the WJ swap, but then you're stuck with 8 or 10 ply tires and most cost a lot more per tire.

I can't find any 16" tire around 33" diameter in 6 ply. Some say 10 ply is better as it won't puncture as easily and you can run 20 psi on the street and get a good ride. I have 10 ply on my truck and they're stiff no matter what, but it's also a leaf sprung 3/4 ton truck, so that could have something to do with it too.

jbennett

Any idea if 1 ton offset tre's would clear? What about with 4" backspace? How close are your tre's now? Thanks.

MoparNJeep

I haven't done my wj swap yet but I can speak to the tires. I prefer the 8 and 10 ply tires. I've slashed a valve stem and my tire lost all air..i kept wheeling and drove home on it just fine. That was a Tj rubicon 245 75 16 mtr

The stiffer tire also make for a better handling tire without the sqirmy feel like with a load range C tire.

Most off-road designed tires have there tread/sidewall designed so that it will conform at low pressure but still carry the load range. That is if you choose a newer design tire.

I don't think the ride is that stuff personally. I run my load range E tires at 26 to 28psi.

If you want to save money on a 16 rim size look at the size 255/85/16. That's a 33.25 +/- .25 by 10" tire and they are usually much cheaper.

305 is a wide tire if you don't like the above listed size a 285/75/16 looks perfect on an xj and is a popular size so lots of options and better price point with that size.

Maxis makes a mt called the bighorn and I find one of the most affordable in the sizes listed above.

If you can spend a little more on tires Cooper tires makes a great All terrain/mt hybrid the ST Maxx that is great for daily drivers that sometimes go wheeling that people have reported getting 80,000 miles out of a set of tires.

irvan105

hey man i just finished it all. I run 15x10 wheels so little different but everything fit fine with the akebono calipers. I have a excel build sheet and pics of part numbers for everything i used if it will help pm me and ill send it to ya bud. I stilll running stock diff cover and it doesnt hit there but will have to shave off your sway bar axle mounts all of the way or it will limit it( i built my steering with 1.5 dom and heims). Its a a major difference. drives and stops more like my 3/4 ton now lol

jbennett

Thanks for all that info. I'm trying to get as close to 33x12.50-15 as I can. I'm familiar with the ride and like how wide those tires are on my previous XJ. The 305/70-16 are nearly identical in overall size to the 33x12.50-15 and I found a set for a great price, only problem is they are 10 ply. It seems everyone has a different opinion on ride quality whether it's tires, shocks, springs, it doesn't matter. I guess as long as I don't hear 100% negative comments on one option or the other, then I probably can't go wrong with either. I'll probably just order the 16" tires tomorrow as the one common problem I hear is with 15" aluminum and the WJ swap.

Curious, are you running steel wheels? If you had aftermarket diff cover, will the tie rod hit? I'm stripping my axle completely, putting new coil buckets and truss and building everything around the WJ swap since I'm basically starting from scratch. Not sure if I'll run a sway bar or not, if I do, it will be a custom mount, I'll have to keep an eye on all of these clearance issues. Do you have a build thread or knuckle swap thread?

XJlimitedx99

What're you hiding that for? Post it up!

jbennett

Time for a little update in case anyone else is looking for info.

16x8 aluminum w/4" backspace WILL NOT clear GM 1 ton offset TRE's.

Having said that, I ground down the edge of the TRE that was hitting at full lock and I will probably run them, but bolt on, no mods, they don't fit.

Specifically, the wheels are Pro Comp 1069 16x8 w/4" backspace and the TRE's are from Barnes4wd, not sure of the brand.

Full lock passenger side, barely touches


Can't even get close to full lock on drivers side


I was hoping to only have to grind this ridge off, but it needed much more taken off to clear on the drivers side


Finally clears


Full lock, drivers side


Clearance with wheels straight


I assume there is still plenty of strength left after grinding maybe 1/4" off of the drivers side TRE, not sure though? I'm going to look into regular TRE's and see how much clearance I'd have at the diff cover.