ZJ tie rod end will not fit on my xj
09-21-2017, 04:53 PM
#16
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
what are you using to tighten it? Air impact or doing it by hand? If the stud is spinning you won't get it any tighter. Sometimes using a floor jack to place some pressure on the tierod will allow you to tighten it more without the stud spinning.
09-21-2017, 07:37 PM
#17
::CF Administrator::
Try exchanging the tie rod end or comparing it to another one. Could be a bad or mislabeled part. You wouldn't believe the bad luck I've had lately with parts being put in wrong boxes or not fitting by just a smidge! Does any part of the cotter key hole show? If so a smaller diameter cotter key may work. Could also be what's called "tolerance build up". That's where your knuckle is built to the thickest dimension allowed, the hole in the tie rod is drilled to the shortest dimension allowed, the ball assembly in the tie rod is built to the thickest allowed, etc. All the parts are within spec but just barely and in the wrong direction causing your problem! Happens more than most people think. That's another reason to try/compare another tie rod end.
No other ME had this issue. Only her stuff. So I HATE it when someone tries to blame stack-up.
Not saying you're wrong, just that it's pretty rare. Except in her case, haha
09-21-2017, 07:50 PM
#18
::CF Administrator::
No...no, it isn't. Avoid.
What Jeepin' said, if you are tightening it and it spins, that's no bueno.
When it comes to tapered joints, torque to spec, then see if the hole and castle line up and you can get the pin in. If the hole doesn't line up, tighten until it does, if it's close. If not, do what was suggested above, with a deeper cut on the castle nut, or lower profile castle...even a smaller diameter cotter pin...as mentioned...make sure it won't slip through, though.
The pins and castle nuts are there for a reason. Steering components see some major forces. Those captive fasteners are important.
Do it right, be safe about it.
09-21-2017, 08:04 PM
#19
No, I don't lick fish.
Did you make sure to clean out the hole of the knuckle with a wire brush real good before trying to put the new TRE in? Underside of the knuckle too. Rust or scale could prevent the stud from going all the way in.
As was said though. DO NOT use locktite in place of the cotter pin. That has bad idea written all over it. It can result in death wobble at the very least and in steering link separation (and a crash) on the other end of the scale.
Use a long breaker bar to get a little more torque if you need to. If you can't, grind a little away at the bottom of the knuckle until you have a clear view of the cotter pin hole and put the pin in... as was also said.
09-21-2017, 09:27 PM
#20
No, I don't lick fish.
If the nut is tight and has the permanent thread locker on there it isn't going anywhere. Now if it isn't tightening because the whole thing is spinning in the knuckle then that's a different story, If this happens you can put pressure on it with a pry bar or even use a floor jack to put pressure on it so it will tighten.
09-21-2017, 10:54 PM
#21
::CF Administrator::
If the nut is tight and has the permanent thread locker on there it isn't going anywhere. Now if it isn't tightening because the whole thing is spinning in the knuckle then that's a different story, If this happens you can put pressure on it with a pry bar or even use a floor jack to put pressure on it so it will tighten.
Honest question.
09-22-2017, 01:24 AM
#22
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Year: 96 & 88 4 dr Cherokees
check your old part against the new part, and check against a 2nd new part as well.
I have also had issue lately where autozone and quadratec BOTH gave/sent me the wrong part for my steering.
Since they both gave me the same part wrong, I suspect they are using the same parts software.
I have also had issue lately where autozone and quadratec BOTH gave/sent me the wrong part for my steering.
Since they both gave me the same part wrong, I suspect they are using the same parts software.
09-22-2017, 04:30 AM
#23
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Because the tie rod and TRE's are the only thing keeping the wheels straight. If one breaks, or loosens and falls out, you will loose all steering control. With a castle nut and cotter pin, the nut can't spin freely.
09-22-2017, 07:59 AM
#26
CF Veteran
Probably because it was quicker on the assembly line, and for the record some vehicles do have a thread locker or a lock nut on the tie rod end instead of a castle nut with a cotter pin, some Nissans are that way and the tie rod ends falling out isn't an issue. I agree that it is safer with the cotter pin in but there is more than one way to do something, and I have never had the issue that the OP is talking about I have always been able to get the pin in.
09-22-2017, 05:41 PM
#27
CF Veteran
Probably because it was quicker on the assembly line, and for the record some vehicles do have a thread locker or a lock nut on the tie rod end instead of a castle nut with a cotter pin, some Nissans are that way and the tie rod ends falling out isn't an issue. I agree that it is safer with the cotter pin in but there is more than one way to do something, and I have never had the issue that the OP is talking about I have always been able to get the pin in.
And BTW - My current Nissan and the 2 before it had castle nuts with cotter pins in all steering related items.
09-23-2017, 12:37 AM
#28
No, I don't lick fish.
Probably because it was quicker on the assembly line, and for the record some vehicles do have a thread locker or a lock nut on the tie rod end instead of a castle nut with a cotter pin, some Nissans are that way and the tie rod ends falling out isn't an issue. I agree that it is safer with the cotter pin in but there is more than one way to do something, and I have never had the issue that the OP is talking about I have always been able to get the pin in.
09-23-2017, 01:32 PM
#29
Seasoned Member
If you are still working on this, since it is the same part
that is on the drag link at the pitman, switch the two parts
and see if that will work for you.
If it doesn't, the problem is that one is oversize in the taper
and you can exchange it.
that is on the drag link at the pitman, switch the two parts
and see if that will work for you.
If it doesn't, the problem is that one is oversize in the taper
and you can exchange it.
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