jessenator

Does any retailer sell an OEM equivalent? I'm finding lots of ebay specials for OEM parts, but didn't know if some box store would have these. Took me forever to even figure out what they're called.

I didn't get any 3rd party when I searched the MOPAR p/n..

These are for my XJ rear disc swap- glad I discovered that they should freely move before I got my daily's rear all torn down. I mean, they kinda move ...if I put it in my vise.

Is it worth it just to try to separate them and electrolysis-remove the rust?

97grand4.0

Yup...that part you have right there is a PITA! I was able to free mine up, worked for about a year, then the hold down pulled through the backing plate and various hardware got tore up as I was driving.
So I took it off and now don't have a P brake. Like building a ship in a bottle trying to work on that.
Brake cleaner and a wire brush.

jessenator

I'm going to try electrolysis, and if that doesn't work then I'll fork out whatever eBay prices are for the Mopar p/ns.

T least there's a small but of movement. Makes me feel better about it not being completely fixed

Ralph77

I would try Evapo-Rust first. Stuff is amazing. I buy it at Advance Auto. Get on their email list and use the 20 to 30% off promo codes they are always sending out. Mine stocks it.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

jessenator

Borrowed brother-in-law's charger. Too about two hours and they're nice n clean. Rotate freely.

One last question. The rubber boots that came with the part set: which way do they sit? I'm assuming the taller portion sits underneath the adjuster, correct?

Ralph77

Used a battery charger? How did you set it up?

EZEARL

Those are dust covers and the enter from the back side. Only one way to install them.

jessenator

He doesn't mention this I think, but you have to use a MANUAL charger, not a new-fangled automatic/smart charger.


This is the best method I've found and the most clearly explained, I did it on the cheap though.

I didn't use copper wire/romex, just some cheap-*** mesh tie wire that wasn't galvanized (it's got to be NON-galvanized and you CANNOT do this process with any form of stainless steel in the mix, or you'll leach out some bad ****).

I used a 5-gal bucket since the parts weren't that large. And you need WASHING soda like the guy says and not baking soda-- chemically different.




Get some sacrificial rebar pieces.

Drill some holes at the top to secure the rebar to the side of the bucket/tub.

Connect all four pieces with tie wire, but DON'T CLOSE THE LOOP--leave a gap.

Add 1 TBSP of WASHING soda per gallon of water and fill to mix it in well.

Attach the parts via wire around a small 2x2 or something insulating so they sit about midway in the bucket.

Attach the negative lead to the part-holding wire, and make sure the suspended arrangement doesn't touch the rebar!

Attach the positive lead to one of the ENDs of the semi-circle of rebar connected with wire.

Set your charger to 2A @ 12V for ~2 hrs depending on the part and how much rust there is. I just set it on hold and checked every hour to see.

Also, DO NOT DO THIS INDOORS. You're splitting water in the process, creating pure hydrogen and oxygen gasses, which will combust with a small spark.





You should see a constant array of very small bubbles surfacing when it's working properly.