ZJ Disc Swap Question Thread
#1
ZJ Disc Swap Question Thread
While waiting (read:saving) on some rear leaf springs (gonna do the whole rear at once) for Bertram, I'm exercising my in-born Germanic meticulousness to be sure about all the aspects of the impending ZJ disc swap. I'm opening this thread for ANY questions regarding the swap as some threads and even the write-up is lacking a few things I'm now curious about. Or maybe they're things that the OGs just know how to do and take it for granted that you must do them.
Question 1)
In both the write-up here and in videos I've watched, they leave out a lot of detail when it comes to the parking brake cables— they simply say "there's modification(s) you have to do, but I didn't cover it, sorry!" I have the ZJ cables and the little splitter bracket thing (and the stock XJ ones, obviously). What modifications are required on the ZJ brake cables?
Question 2)
I've watched videos where ZJ soft lines are switched (L for R) to facilitate mounting the bracket to the excess of the leaf spring bolt threads. Is this advisable?
Question 3)
Modifying the hard lines: is making that loop (shown in the official write-up) advisable? or since this is a 20-yr old slightly rusty XJ, should I just form up new braided brake lines and call it a day?
I noticed that DMC (the author of the write-up) hasn't logged on in 4 years …maybe it's time the write up got amended/replaced?
Question 1)
In both the write-up here and in videos I've watched, they leave out a lot of detail when it comes to the parking brake cables— they simply say "there's modification(s) you have to do, but I didn't cover it, sorry!" I have the ZJ cables and the little splitter bracket thing (and the stock XJ ones, obviously). What modifications are required on the ZJ brake cables?
Question 2)
I've watched videos where ZJ soft lines are switched (L for R) to facilitate mounting the bracket to the excess of the leaf spring bolt threads. Is this advisable?
Question 3)
Modifying the hard lines: is making that loop (shown in the official write-up) advisable? or since this is a 20-yr old slightly rusty XJ, should I just form up new braided brake lines and call it a day?
I noticed that DMC (the author of the write-up) hasn't logged on in 4 years …maybe it's time the write up got amended/replaced?
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
- #1 ZJ rear drivers side cable / 2000 Ford Explorer rear passenger. Some say that it's simple to bend the ends of the existing XJ cables ?
- #2 Sounds doable ? I'm going to mount Russell's 90 degree brake line mounts to my spring plates. They have a 5/8" hole for using the 3an 24 adapters that attaches to 8" poly coated braided SSTL soft lines. The mount uses a clip to hold the line, like the OEM line at the rear of the longest hard brake line.
- #3 ??? Not aware of that one ? Do you mean the middle rear soft line ? If so, I am using Inline Tube poly coated braided SSTL soft line. It is 18" long, plus another 1.5 " for the adapters/fittings. Comes with the brass T-block that sits on top of the axle with a 7/16" bolt. Attaches to the rear long hard line, just like OEM. 18" is for 0-4" lift. Inline Tube part number JP9595, comes with this line and two more 18" soft lines for the front calipers. I removed the #30 Torx bolt that holds the front lines to the inner wheel well. Going to also use the Russell's clip mounts. This costs a bit more, but it's my brakes, and it's worth it to me !!! Plus it just looks like an original installation, clean and professional. And looks awesome !!! If buying Inline Tube products, use Ebay, cheaper !!!
Last edited by CRLAMBERTJR; 08-17-2018 at 11:24 PM.
#3
CF Veteran
#3 You have to shorten your hard line or loop it or something and use the soft line. It allows the brake caliper to move back and forth. I haven't messed with the ZJ specifically, although I have one here with the D44A. But I think I would use the ZJ parking brake cables and do whatever I needed to do to make them attach to the XJ splitter thingy, whatever that is called
#4
Since I have the backing plates and cables from a ZJ connecting shouldn't be an issue. I didn't know if it was some cable cutting (surely not) or re-routing. Perhaps it's apparent when you're under it?
I just don't want to have everything ready to go, up on jacks, be under the thing, axles out, and find I have to go get some tool or some other parts.
I made sure to grab everything based off a complete list i could source as best as I could: calipers, backing plates, cables and handle bracket/tightening thingy, prop valve (guts).
There's this consistent "you need to mod the brake cables" with no detail...
If there's no issue with looping the hard lives, I'll do that. Also looked into it and a new set of stainless hard lines is only $120 or something on eBay.
I just don't want to have everything ready to go, up on jacks, be under the thing, axles out, and find I have to go get some tool or some other parts.
I made sure to grab everything based off a complete list i could source as best as I could: calipers, backing plates, cables and handle bracket/tightening thingy, prop valve (guts).
There's this consistent "you need to mod the brake cables" with no detail...
If there's no issue with looping the hard lives, I'll do that. Also looked into it and a new set of stainless hard lines is only $120 or something on eBay.
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#8
CF Veteran
They'll match up. Did the swap on my C8.25. Luckily on a '96 and earlier the parking brake cables are centered so they're both the same. As far as the lines go I attached them to the stabilizer bar bracket on the leaf spring plate.
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee(XJ)
Engine: 4.0L I-6
PB Cables
My 99 has the lines going down the driver side. The older models run down the middle. With yours, the two big loops will work, if you don't mind them being there ? Wasn't sure what you meant at first ? The cables I mentioned are for the newer models, to avoid loops.
#10
that "thingy" is called an equalizer I guess But yeah that must be a pre-97 diagram. I just looked under mine and the whole equalizer and cable shield is bracketed to the frame rail on the driver's side :/ Doesn't look like there's an easy way to mount it centrally on the chassis/unibody.
Guess that solves that question.
I think the most amazing part of the video is that he removed the stock hard lines without breaking anything...
#12
Here are the cables I'm using. No big loops:
https://www.morris4x4center.com/rt-o...-rt-31039.html
https://www.morris4x4center.com/rt-o...-rt-31039.html
Yeah toward the end of the video he's using some cable-tie-u-bolt thing to hook around the brake lever instead of the factory loop, after cutting the spring and that doesn't sit well with me at all.
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#14
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0
i disconnected the ebrake cables at the junction box. 125k miles later, never once did i say, “wish i had an ebrake” and i’m still here to tell about it. go figure.
now it’s time to put axle seals in this new to me rear dif. not looking forward to it. yesterday was a cluster.
now it’s time to put axle seals in this new to me rear dif. not looking forward to it. yesterday was a cluster.
Last edited by s346k; 08-19-2018 at 12:09 PM.
#15
i disconnected the ebrake cables at the junction box. 125k miles later, never once did i say, “wish i had an ebrake” and i’m still here to tell about it. go figure.
now it’s time to put axle seals in this new to me rear dif. not looking forward to it. yesterday was a cluster.
now it’s time to put axle seals in this new to me rear dif. not looking forward to it. yesterday was a cluster.
I actually get peeved when service centers don't set the brake; have been since I could drive.
I hear you on the seals... I went to the trouble of finding some decent seals and ended up boogering one set, then installing the second set backward :facepalm: