cptmohog

I spent over an hour reading through threads and didn't find all the answers I was looking for so forgive me for this yet another thread!!
I have decided to purchase the 3 row radiator from the barn and a 180 tstat (stant) but what other componets should be upgraded at the same time? I assume the water pump and tstat housing, does anyone have brands they have used and are happy with? I will put new hoses in, should I replace the heater core hoses also? Anything else to be considered? I already have a brand new elec fan installed. Since evryone I know with a cherokee has had to replace the radiator at some point, and I am running a little hot (around 220), I have decided to just upgrade the whole system now rather than have a problem 40 miles from civilization!!! Thanks in advance

Woody32

I'm getting ready to do the exact thing. I'm ordering a pace setter high volume aluminum pump. Why would you choose the 180 tstat over the 160 or 195? Just trying to decide myself. I was driving home one day and started smelling coolant, got to about 220-230 and made it home opened the hood and was spewing coolant in the form of steam from the reservoir. On top of that I have a squeal when I start it up, it subsides when it warms up and turns into a banging (like something is seizing and slipping) when it gets hot.

cptmohog

after reading through hundreds of tstat posts, I got that the general concensus was if you go with the 3 row radiator, the 180 is the best match. Anyone have anymore insight to this?

1991Jeep_Man

The 180* t-stat is only going to decide the minimum temp for the coolant to cycle at. Some people run 180's in Summer and stock 195's in winter. It's preference I guess. I stick 195* all year, and that's during 90+ days in VA with a 195 t-stat and two row radiator. The highest I get is a normal 210, MAYBE 215 on high hill pulls on the hottest days. But it goes back down. As for water pumps, I used a OEM unit from NAPA. I think those high flow things are crap.

Zack92MJ

I just did my pump yesterday, not to hard at all. First time I ever did one. I got the duralast water pump with a life time warranty from autozone for about 35 bucks, if you want to go the oem way.

Gee oh Dee

Get a flush done by a shop.

Woody32

why would you say the high flow are crap? Anyone else feel that way? i Do ALOT of cross country travel, from the low hot desert to the high cold mountains from california to Pennsyltucky... I just assumed higher volumn was better

white91

The high flow pumps flow to much coolant. The coolant doesnt stay in the radiator long enough to actually cool down.

cptmohog

I have a budy who wrenchs at the dodge dealership. he hooks me up over weekends with extreme low cost repairs, so yes I will have the whole system flushed as well

cptmohog

Really? the consensus from reading through threads was a high volume matchs well with the 3 row. I just want to get the best system I can the first time. This seams to be a very divided topic, it's hard to decide which side has the best solution. I should mention I live in PHX area AZ...this time of year its between 105 and 118 depending on the day and winter is in the high 50's low 60's on average. The few really cold days we get each year are just that...a few at most! Would that apply also to the high flow tstat housings mentioned in other threads? I see where running at 210 is considered pretty normal but others are reporting their rig runs 190ish or close to that. I think I would feel more comfortable around 195-200.

Woody32

Ditto... I haul my piles all over and I keep a 200 rule for most of my vehicles. my bigger/older trucks got higher and my smaller ones tended to hang around 190 , but it is still an average I shoot for. and it seems like the more coolant moving around is always better. I feel that the faster is passes through the 'hot-spots' the less time it has to heat up as opposed to cooling down longer the slower it moves...no?

Woody32

I asked this somewhere else but i'll try here too, what can I do to eliminate my A/C? I don't need it, it doesn't work, I want it gone...

Gee oh Dee

Search or start your own thread.

MrSchaeferPants

You can replace everything if you want. But from everything I've ever learned, your stock temperature Tstat was used in this vehicle from an engineer who decided that was the best degree to use. If you're overheating, a cooler Tstat is a bandaid. 180/195 is not neccessarily what your engine should be running at, it's when the Tstat should open. Most engines run between 200-220. If you want to replace componets and hoses as a preventative maintainence, it could be a goodl idea, but only if they look old and worn.

If you're overheating, you need to find the cause. Like Gee oh Dee said, get a flush, or at least start with one. Just because your coolant looks clean and green it still might not be good. Could invest in an OBAT or smiliar device to measure the gravity, or just get it flushed, especially if the liquid looks dity and rusty.

If you have the money to spend and want to sure, get it all new. But really, a flush might lower the tempature down a bit. But unless you're often in the red towing, going up hill, I wouldn't even worry about 220.

I'm just anti cooler Tstats (180) because to be the most effective, run the best/mpg/performance - whoever designed the I6 4.0 put in a 195 Tstat, and he's a whole lot smarter than me. Engine needs to run at it's designed temperature.

northline76

From everything I have seen its better to run the tstat at 195. I had the 3row CSF and had issues with the 180, and its much better with the 195. The 4.0 likes running hot, i usually run between 200 and 210 and i get better gas mileage. I have redone my cooling system except for water pump and thats next on the list when I get the money.