Evanfordsp1

Yeah that's my point too... I think in the end ill go for the Drop Kit, then once I save up enough money ill buy the SYE kit.

Do yall think an 1 inch TC Drop Kit would be enough for and extra 2 inches of lift added to the rear end. In all the lift will be around 6.5" front and back...

TheJerm

Some food for thought: aftermarket lift motor mounts do the same at tcase drop. So if you know you will replace them, which you will eventually cause they suck, could just get those and save $20 on the drop in the long run

auburn_XJ

The rough country lifts come with tcase drops

Evanfordsp1

Yeah my RE lift came with a set of TC drops, but never got installed by the last owner...

Red82

The sye isn't just for offroading. It'll save your driveline and u joints.

auburn_XJ

So do drop kits. The Sye is great for more off than on road use. I'm getting a 3 and a drop kit.

DortDizzle

Hack and Tap is a less expensive and kind of an easier install. The added strength from an SYE kit usually comes from the larger diameter main shaft like in the Advance Adapters kit. When I say larger diameter they increased the size of the smallest part of the shaft were the speedo gear goes.

The point of a drop is the attempt to keep u-joints at the same angle (many post around the internet) so that the angular velocity remains the same at both ends of your driveshaft, and thus does not vibrate or add stress to the joints.

A CV (constant velocity) does this by its double cardan (2 u-joints) being linked by a very short distance cancels out the changes in joint velocity that cause vibration. The U-joint end by the axle pinion needs to be close to parallel with the differential pinion

In short a drop kit works fine if you make sure that the angles of both your transfer case and axle pinion are parallel. SYE's and CV drive-shafts are used were this is not practical, or desired.

Check out this link it has some nice diagrams

http://jeep.zerok.ru/files/XJ1984-19...talignment.pdf


By the way increasing your lift with spacers or blocks isn't going to eliminate your rubbing issue. You might not rub on flat ground, but the point is your tires are bigger than your stock fender wells. If your on the trails and you articulate your suspension you risk damaging your tires. I have an RE 5.5" without trimmed fenders and I rub at full lock in reverse, but on the trails I have jammed my tires into the wells not being careful.

Evanfordsp1

Dude thank you for that info, thats exactly what I was looking for... So basically you agree that the Hack N Tap SYE method is just as strong as a complete SYE kit? Cause i figure that both are just a solution to drive line angel problems. So i see no difference in them, strength wise, plus the Hack N Tap is a whole lot cheaper. Plus I kinda get to build the kit myself and pick my own drive shaft.. so do everything myself ya know.. which to me is an added benefit.

Im thinking of doing RE SYE kit and a normal front drive shaft to complete the kit...

Then once ive done that i will add the little bit of extra lift...

What kind of tires/wheels are you running, and is yours the complete longarm RE kit... Im just curious, its hard to find anyone on here that have 4.5" + lifts made by Rubicon Express...

DortDizzle

I wouldn't say a Hack-N-Tap is the same strength as a complete kit. It is just as strong as the stock shaft bc that's what it uses. I have a complete kit from Advanced Adapters. Check out their website for some comparisons.

I run an RE 5.5" Long-Arm with 33x12.5" Mickey Thompson MTZs