What/Who's steering do you run?
#76
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
man that is too cool. What a nice alternative to the teraflex knuckle. This is definitely the way to go I wonder if it comes with DIY instructions, such as heating the knuckle in the oven for awhile before welding and then bucket of sand for cool down
http://www.bleeoffroad.com/
#77
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
man that is too cool. What a nice alternative to the teraflex knuckle. This is definitely the way to go I wonder if it comes with DIY instructions, such as heating the knuckle in the oven for awhile before welding and then bucket of sand for cool down
http://www.bleeoffroad.com/
http://www.bleeoffroad.com/
If you want you can preheat with a torch to 400 or so degrees and then burn it in hot. Not too difficult. I know plenty of guys who weld cast steel with no preheat and havent had any cracking issues.
Cast iron on the other hand is a totally different animal.
#78
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
if you want to avoid running an OTA track bar I think a good alternative is the IRO kit. while it is a funky concept, it does allow you to keep the stock track bar location.
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html
I still recommend true high steer or at least OTK with OTA track bar. Getting your steering geometry flat is just as important as getting your tie rod away from the rocks. A flatter drag link will take a lot of stress off your frame/steering box and a the track bar will cause less axle swing if it's OTA
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html
I still recommend true high steer or at least OTK with OTA track bar. Getting your steering geometry flat is just as important as getting your tie rod away from the rocks. A flatter drag link will take a lot of stress off your frame/steering box and a the track bar will cause less axle swing if it's OTA
#80
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Its cast steel, not cast iron.
If you want you can preheat with a torch to 400 or so degrees and then burn it in hot. Not too difficult. I know plenty of guys who weld cast steel with no preheat and havent had any cracking issues.
Cast iron on the other hand is a totally different animal.
If you want you can preheat with a torch to 400 or so degrees and then burn it in hot. Not too difficult. I know plenty of guys who weld cast steel with no preheat and havent had any cracking issues.
Cast iron on the other hand is a totally different animal.
#81
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Our kit is 10% off currently with code Santa10
Also, we have a NO BS warranty, you break it, we replace it.
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Last edited by Outlaw Star; 12-28-2016 at 04:14 PM.
#83
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Ive been impatiently checking every day for a notification saying my alpha 3-link kit i ordered is on its way. haha
Last edited by Outlaw Star; 12-28-2016 at 04:15 PM.
#84
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Year: 1998 (buggy), 1998 DD
Model: Cherokee
However, WOD is cheaper than what I've priced out.
As far as DOM, it's what was in stock here, and was way cheaper...and it still cost me ~ $1 per inch (had to buy the whole stick too).
Fawk bungs and all that stuff, I'm all about built in wrench flats, and no bungs from here on out!
#85
#86
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Honestly i wouldn't run aluminum steering linkage unless its a off roader only and has a class weight limit.Everything else its gonna be thick wall dom or chromoly.Roninofako is right tho,Aluminum is more likely to crack or break while steel would bent first.The 7075 Aluminum they use has a tensile strength of 40k psi.Same thing in dom is 70k to 80k psi depending the wall thickness.And chromoly tensile strength is 81k psi in case your wondering.
#87
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Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
That's good information to know about the tensile/ductility relationship. And a good point about the threads because I've heard some states won't allow welded steering linkage to pass inspection.
#88
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Slight update on this since the thread has been resurrected. I found a good deal on a used teraflex high steer knuckle with the aluminum drag/tie rod combination. Turns out, their aluminum is junk and won't hold up to a hit. Sure, I could probably bend it back but not worth it in my opinion. I welded up my own steel tierod but am still using the aluminum drag link since I haven't had issues with it. I'm still using the original track bar mount but installed a stock pitman arm inplace of the drop pitman arm used for the lift kit. No death wobble and my drag link and track bar have good geometry. I'm happy so far!
#89
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Slight update on this since the thread has been resurrected. I found a good deal on a used teraflex high steer knuckle with the aluminum drag/tie rod combination. Turns out, their aluminum is junk and won't hold up to a hit. Sure, I could probably bend it back but not worth it in my opinion. I welded up my own steel tierod but am still using the aluminum drag link since I haven't had issues with it. I'm still using the original track bar mount but installed a stock pitman arm inplace of the drop pitman arm used for the lift kit. No death wobble and my drag link and track bar have good geometry. I'm happy so far!
#90
CF Veteran
IM running the Gen 1 Cav-fab crossover on my MJ and Dirtbound crossover on my XJ. no complaints with either one, and both are daily driven. They are essentially identical.