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What/Who's steering do you run?

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Old 12-27-2016, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RoyalXJ
B Lee makes a nice double sheer knuckle bracket


man that is too cool. What a nice alternative to the teraflex knuckle. This is definitely the way to go I wonder if it comes with DIY instructions, such as heating the knuckle in the oven for awhile before welding and then bucket of sand for cool down


http://www.bleeoffroad.com/
Old 12-27-2016, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Atmos
man that is too cool. What a nice alternative to the teraflex knuckle. This is definitely the way to go I wonder if it comes with DIY instructions, such as heating the knuckle in the oven for awhile before welding and then bucket of sand for cool down


http://www.bleeoffroad.com/
Its cast steel, not cast iron.

If you want you can preheat with a torch to 400 or so degrees and then burn it in hot. Not too difficult. I know plenty of guys who weld cast steel with no preheat and havent had any cracking issues.

Cast iron on the other hand is a totally different animal.
Old 12-27-2016, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ
oh yeah, you're there lol. I don't really have the motivation for that but I'm also working outside soooo maybe once it's nice out but we shall see. I don't want to spend the money on a track bar and all that since mine is perfectly fine.
Its definitely quite a bit of work, wouldnt say its necessarily hard but working indoors definitely makes it more enjoyable.

Originally Posted by Atmos
if you want to avoid running an OTA track bar I think a good alternative is the IRO kit. while it is a funky concept, it does allow you to keep the stock track bar location.


http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/11060.html


I still recommend true high steer or at least OTK with OTA track bar. Getting your steering geometry flat is just as important as getting your tie rod away from the rocks. A flatter drag link will take a lot of stress off your frame/steering box and a the track bar will cause less axle swing if it's OTA
I would really like to go with true high steer knuckles, but they are pricey. I already have an OTA track bar in the works, probably go with OTK tie rod for now until I drop the coin on true high steer down the road.
Old 12-27-2016, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by LACK
Its cast steel, not cast iron.





Old 12-27-2016, 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by LACK
Its cast steel, not cast iron.

If you want you can preheat with a torch to 400 or so degrees and then burn it in hot. Not too difficult. I know plenty of guys who weld cast steel with no preheat and havent had any cracking issues.

Cast iron on the other hand is a totally different animal.
I was thinking this same thing. I'd feel a bit more confident heating the knuckles up a bit before welding though.
Old 12-27-2016, 04:49 PM
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Have you thought about or seen ours?

Our kit is 10% off currently with code Santa10

Also, we have a NO BS warranty, you break it, we replace it.

--CavFab

Last edited by Outlaw Star; 12-28-2016 at 04:14 PM.
Old 12-27-2016, 06:16 PM
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I just picked up ballistic 3/4 heim steering. Still need to cut it and weld the bungs so Im not sure how it is yet
Old 12-27-2016, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by CavFab
Have you thought about or seen ours?

Our kit is 10% off currently with code Santa10

Also, we have a NO BS warranty, you break it, we replace it.

--CavFab
I can vouch for the quality of the steering kit I got from you guys. Granted its sitting in my garage un-installed. Welds and finish work is outstanding.

Ive been impatiently checking every day for a notification saying my alpha 3-link kit i ordered is on its way. haha

Last edited by Outlaw Star; 12-28-2016 at 04:15 PM.
Old 12-29-2016, 01:04 AM
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
I can't find 2.25 material locally. My lowers will eventually be 2.5.
I can't either as far as 7075-T6.

However, WOD is cheaper than what I've priced out.

As far as DOM, it's what was in stock here, and was way cheaper...and it still cost me ~ $1 per inch (had to buy the whole stick too).

Fawk bungs and all that stuff, I'm all about built in wrench flats, and no bungs from here on out!
Old 01-02-2017, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CavFab
Have you thought about or seen ours?

Our kit is 10% off currently with code Santa10

Also, we have a NO BS warranty, you break it, we replace it.

--CavFab
I have tried calling alot. Your voicemail box is to full lol
Old 02-14-2018, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by andrewmp6
Honestly i wouldn't run aluminum steering linkage unless its a off roader only and has a class weight limit.Everything else its gonna be thick wall dom or chromoly.Roninofako is right tho,Aluminum is more likely to crack or break while steel would bent first.The 7075 Aluminum they use has a tensile strength of 40k psi.Same thing in dom is 70k to 80k psi depending the wall thickness.And chromoly tensile strength is 81k psi in case your wondering.
The greater the tensile strength the lower the ductility. The tensile strength of the aluminum in less because it is more ductile. The DOM will bend less, stay bent, fatigue and break before the Aluminum does. One good thing about the stinky fab kit is, its solid Aluminum with the threads machined into it.
Old 02-14-2018, 04:20 PM
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That's good information to know about the tensile/ductility relationship. And a good point about the threads because I've heard some states won't allow welded steering linkage to pass inspection.
Old 02-15-2018, 09:48 AM
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Slight update on this since the thread has been resurrected. I found a good deal on a used teraflex high steer knuckle with the aluminum drag/tie rod combination. Turns out, their aluminum is junk and won't hold up to a hit. Sure, I could probably bend it back but not worth it in my opinion. I welded up my own steel tierod but am still using the aluminum drag link since I haven't had issues with it. I'm still using the original track bar mount but installed a stock pitman arm inplace of the drop pitman arm used for the lift kit. No death wobble and my drag link and track bar have good geometry. I'm happy so far!
Old 02-15-2018, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeepin'_Aint_EZ
Slight update on this since the thread has been resurrected. I found a good deal on a used teraflex high steer knuckle with the aluminum drag/tie rod combination. Turns out, their aluminum is junk and won't hold up to a hit. Sure, I could probably bend it back but not worth it in my opinion. I welded up my own steel tierod but am still using the aluminum drag link since I haven't had issues with it. I'm still using the original track bar mount but installed a stock pitman arm inplace of the drop pitman arm used for the lift kit. No death wobble and my drag link and track bar have good geometry. I'm happy so far!
I am looking into getting the Stinky Fab kit soon and am curious about the pitman arm. The one they sell on their site is not a drop pitman arm, so I am curious about the geometry. I have a 4.5" lift. Do you have a picture of your setup? I am pretty sure my lift came with a longer track bar bracket. How long is the stock one?
Old 02-15-2018, 10:09 AM
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IM running the Gen 1 Cav-fab crossover on my MJ and Dirtbound crossover on my XJ. no complaints with either one, and both are daily driven. They are essentially identical.



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