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I've been watching this thread, have noticed the maxed out heims as well.
I'm doing a new build and steering upgrade is something I really need to get rid of steering bind.
I like the cav fab design most so far.
They just added a bend to the drag link:
I'm liking this, installed with the DL UTK and tie rod OTK so they attatch at the same point on the axle.
It's also similar to the iron rock offroad design but I have made my mind up and am currently anti tie rod end and anti flex joint.
Even that design looks like it will have bind issues when both sides are completely bottomed out. Especially the people using stock length bump stops. I know the bar that goes from spindle to spindle can be twisted down but then it hangs low.
Hopefully someone who has one of those kits will chime in with real world feedback. I am trying to decide on a steering system as well. Might just have to make my own.
The heim joints on the drag link are at their max at a certain point yes. It's not near ride height though. In our typical long arm build using our Long Arm 3 Link Kit and our High Clearance Steering, the most we recommend lift-height-wise is 5.5" for an UTK installation. We run these long arm builds from 3"-5.5" with an UTK installation, 12" travel shocks, and at max droop (shock extended) the drag link heims are at max extension, but not bound up.
Above 6" of lift I highly recommend going to our full OTK Steering and Track Bar kit for a few reasons. One, it alleviates the increased drag link angles and two, the raised track bar increases your roll center, resulting in a more stable front suspension overall.
The tie rod (from knuckle to knuckle) does not have any movement in the heims other than rotational.
If you have other specific questions about our steering I am happy to answer them anytime, just let me know. We have been the leader in crossover, high clearance XJ steering upgrades for years and still are. We've had former employees leave us and create carbon copies of our products, but that's to be expected sometimes. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery!
Subbed. Im going to be running cav fab's steering. I have an RE HD track bar and frame side mount but trying to decide if I need to go OTA with my track bar at 5.5" of lift.
The draglink is supposed to be on top of the knuckle for UTK steering. With that you wont need an axle bracket. Keep an on you pitman arm and frame side bracket to make sure you can keep the track bar and draglink parallel.
The draglink is supposed to be on top of the knuckle for UTK steering. With that you wont need an axle bracket. Keep an on you pitman arm and frame side bracket to make sure you can keep the track bar and draglink parallel.
Yeah, I'm aware of the drag link going on top no matter what configuration. I was just saying running both the drag link and tie rod on top of the knuckle in single shear seems sketchy, I would imagine it would put quite a bit of stress on the bolt being that there is more leverage.
Ive decided that im going to be running an OTA track bar set up regardless and tie it into my truss. Have more control over my angles that way.
Yeah, I'm aware of the drag link going on top no matter what configuration. I was just saying running both the drag link and tie rod on top of the knuckle in single shear seems sketchy, I would imagine it would put quite a bit of stress on the bolt being that there is more leverage.
Ive decided that im going to be running an OTA track bar set up regardless and tie it into my truss. Have more control over my angles that way.
The shear strength of a grade 8 5/8 or 3/4" bolt is far beyond what it will see in standard xj steering. The main concern for me would be that bolt wallowing out the hole in the knuckle due to the added leverage like you said.
Like LACK said, it'd be sketchy because in a single-shear design there is nothing capturing the top of the bolt for support which will definitely increase the leverage on that bolt. I'm at about 6-7" of lift and really don't feel like doing an OTA track bar bracket...
Like LACK said, it'd be sketchy because in a single-shear design there is nothing capturing the top of the bolt for support which will definitely increase the leverage on that bolt. I'm at about 6-7" of lift and really don't feel like doing an OTA track bar bracket...
I've already got the front axle out to weld on a truss and C gussets. I might as well go OTA track bar at this point.
I've already got the front axle out to weld on a truss and C gussets. I might as well go OTA track bar at this point.
oh yeah, you're there lol. I don't really have the motivation for that but I'm also working outside soooo maybe once it's nice out but we shall see. I don't want to spend the money on a track bar and all that since mine is perfectly fine.
I was going to run an UTK tie rod and OTK drag link. Stacking heims on top of the knuckle in single sheer doesnt give me warm and fuzzies.
I could be wrong however.
if you want to avoid running an OTA track bar I think a good alternative is the IRO kit. while it is a funky concept, it does allow you to keep the stock track bar location.
I still recommend true high steer or at least OTK with OTA track bar. Getting your steering geometry flat is just as important as getting your tie rod away from the rocks. A flatter drag link will take a lot of stress off your frame/steering box and a the track bar will cause less axle swing if it's OTA
12-21-2016, 07:54 PM
