What steering system?
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What steering system?
I'm having serious problems figuring out what steering system I should run on my XJ with 6.5 inchs of lift. I have gotten very close to going with JCR otk or Currie currectlync with the savvy tie rod.
I would much rather go with the currie but I haven't been able to find any evidence it will work at my height. It says up to 6 inchs of lift but that seems to concern a TJ.
The JCR would be an option but I have moved and no longer have a garage and the install is very demanding. WJ wouldn't work for these reasons either. Also I have heard that the JCR has a dead spot sometimes.
Any other options would be greatly appreciated. My jeep will soon be my only vehicle so I have to sort this out asap. My stock steering is near undriveable.
Thanks in advance.
I would much rather go with the currie but I haven't been able to find any evidence it will work at my height. It says up to 6 inchs of lift but that seems to concern a TJ.
The JCR would be an option but I have moved and no longer have a garage and the install is very demanding. WJ wouldn't work for these reasons either. Also I have heard that the JCR has a dead spot sometimes.
Any other options would be greatly appreciated. My jeep will soon be my only vehicle so I have to sort this out asap. My stock steering is near undriveable.
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO I6
The Currie will not address the issues you are having with your stock steering. It is the same exact design, and therefore works the same way (only improvement is strength and beefyness to prevent bending in the rocks). You need to swap to inverted T (the JCR style) or to true crossover with the WJ steering to make any improvements.
Serious Offroad offers the inverted T one-ton style (with inserts so you don't have to ream the knuckle holes), and the only thing you need to do is drill out the holes in your knuckles. You can even do that without pulling them, in your driveway if necessary. Drop in the inserts, throw a little weld down and bolt it on and go.
Serious Offroad offers the inverted T one-ton style (with inserts so you don't have to ream the knuckle holes), and the only thing you need to do is drill out the holes in your knuckles. You can even do that without pulling them, in your driveway if necessary. Drop in the inserts, throw a little weld down and bolt it on and go.
#3
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http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch...egory_Code=XST
Try that link. Seems like the best bolt in option out there that Ive seen.
Try that link. Seems like the best bolt in option out there that Ive seen.
#4
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, K&N, 99 Intake, MSD Coil, Accel plugs, wires rotor and cap.
I have the Iron Rock OTK kit. I freakin love it! replaced a crappy y link design by rustys which had given me death wobble. The IRO kit is pure beef, easy to install and gives you OTK clearance. And its feels extremely solid, dont have to worry about tie rod roll, and this is the kit they recommend to go along with their long arm kits, so 6.5" wont be a problem. just run a drop pitman arm and you are set.
Last edited by chademinent; 01-08-2015 at 04:25 PM.
#5
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Year: 1999
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Think the serious kit requires welding on the trackbar bracket and sway bar links. I was also looking at the iro kit and do like their products, but I'm not sure about using heims on a street rig. Also I think having the tires directly connected like that with heims would cause an awful lot of bumpsteer.
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Year: 1988
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Think the serious kit requires welding on the trackbar bracket and sway bar links. I was also looking at the iro kit and do like their products, but I'm not sure about using heims on a street rig. Also I think having the tires directly connected like that with heims would cause an awful lot of bumpsteer.
#7
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Year: 1999
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Meant death wobble, thank you though. Forgot where I heard that from. The iro kit might work as temporary option until I can install a better kit. Does anyone know if the smaller bolt option will do if I plan to upgrade down the road before doing any serious off roading?
Last edited by Velcro; 01-08-2015 at 04:32 PM.
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#8
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0, K&N, 99 Intake, MSD Coil, Accel plugs, wires rotor and cap.
NO DEATH WOBBLE! I DD my jeep and Im not worried at all about running heims. Just make sure they stay clean and check your torque every once in a while. I have hardly any bumpsteer and im still running a stock pitman arm. I have a buddy that runs a currie setup and says he has a ton of bumpsteer. IMO I dont think there is anything better that is bolt on for the price.
#9
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Year: 1997
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Engine: 4.0 High Output
I've heard great things about iro steering considered doing it myself but ending up building my own. for a bolt on kit id say it's your best bet.
#12
The Currie will not address the issues you are having with your stock steering. It is the same exact design, and therefore works the same way (only improvement is strength and beefyness to prevent bending in the rocks). You need to swap to inverted T (the JCR style) or to true crossover with the WJ steering to make any improvements.
Serious Offroad offers the inverted T one-ton style (with inserts so you don't have to ream the knuckle holes), and the only thing you need to do is drill out the holes in your knuckles. You can even do that without pulling them, in your driveway if necessary. Drop in the inserts, throw a little weld down and bolt it on and go.
Serious Offroad offers the inverted T one-ton style (with inserts so you don't have to ream the knuckle holes), and the only thing you need to do is drill out the holes in your knuckles. You can even do that without pulling them, in your driveway if necessary. Drop in the inserts, throw a little weld down and bolt it on and go.
#13
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Year: 1999
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Ask post #5. I think I'm going to go with the IRO kit, hopefully the smaller hardware option will work. As I really don't want to be reaming my knuckles if I plan to replace it. Does anyone know how I can get the trackbar angle right with this kit? I'm hoping removing my drop pitman arm and installing their double sheer bracket will get me close.
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I was talking about pitman arm to passenger knuckle. The fact that your two knuckles are connected has nothing to do with death wobble if all the parts in your front axle are in working order. Countless people are running inverted T set ups and true crossover/ hi steer with ill effect with the two knuckles connected directly by one link.
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Year: 1999
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Yeah wouldn't think so, but it's always good to make sure. Anyways, anyone know how the IRO kit feels on the freeway with a lift like mine?